STCRL1 N G ANDFRANCINE CLAR1C AKT INSTITUTE L1BRART TATTING AND NETTING. PRIC E : FIFTY CENTS or TWO SHILLINGS. PUBLISHED BY The Butterick Publishing Co. (Limited), London, and New York. Copyright, 1895. "Attempt the end, and never stand to doubt; Nothing's so hard but search will find it out." — Herrick. "A thing is never too often repeated which is never sufficiently learned." — Seneca. "Say I taught thee."— Henry VIII. (Act III.) (ONTGNTS, TATTING. Pages 5 to 7— Rudiments of Tatting. Pages 7 to 36 — Kdgings and Insertions. Pages 36 to 56 — Articles of Use and Ornament. Pages 56 to 77— Doileys, Squares and Tidies. NETTING. Pages 77 to 97— Rudiments of Netting: Plain and Fancy Patterns in Netting. Pages 97 to 101 — Stitches and Designs for Darning Netting. Pages 101 to 107 — Fancy Designs, with Illustrated Details, for Darned or Guipure Netting, Pages 107 to 119 — Edgings, Insertions, Fringes and Scollops, Etc. Pages 119 to 133 — Doileys, Toilet Sets, Mats, Wheels, Squares, Etc. Pages 133 to 152— Articles of Use and Ornament. NTR0DUeTI0N, TATTING AND NETTING are two very popular depart- ments in the domain of Fancy-Work. The former is capable of exquisite variations in the hands of a skilled worker ; the latter provides not only the ornamental but the prac- tical and useful as well, and thus the two are harmonious com- panion-arts, well adapted to appear in one pamphlet. "Tatting and Netting" has been carefully constructed to meet the demand made for it, and also to round out our list of other Fancy-Work pamphlets, and cannot but be a valuable addi- tion to the literature of the Work Table. The beginner either in Tatting or Netting will find the rudiments of the work complete, the progressive stitches clearly illustrated and described, and the more substantial designs thoroughly reliable both as to newness and perfection. It will be patent to all those who look over the pages of Tatting and Netting that the pamphlet should have a conspicuous place in every lady's library of Books on Fancy- Work. THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING CO. (limited), 7 to i 7 West Thirteenth Street, New York. TATTING AND NETTING. TATTING. Abbreviations Used in Making Tatting. d. s. ..Double-Stitch or the two halves forming one stitch. p. Pi cot. * Indicates a repetition as directed wherever a * is seen. Suggestions for Those Who Make Tatting. In making tatting much depends upon imple- ments and materials, and also upon the patience and neatness of the worker. The first requisite is a good shuttle. The rubber shuttles are preferable to the bone, ivory or silver ones, as they will be found more pliable, a great recommendation when the end of the shuttle is used instead of a pin or crochet needle for drawing the thread through the picots. When braids are employed in the work, the join- ing is most easily made by using the crochet needle. Silver shuttles soil both hands and thread. A shut- tle should be about two inches and a half in length, and as thin as possible to accomplish rapid work. A larger shuttle is clumsy, and a smaller one necessi- tates continual refilling. The shuttles of our great grandmothers were five or six inches in length, but this was then necessary, as in those days tatting was made of fine cord. An important factor in producing neat work is good thread — one which will draw easily and will not knot. A trial of the different brands in the market generally induces the tatting expert to de- cide in favor of twilled lace thread, the work being more easily done and the effect more lace-like. For trimming ordinary underwear, No. 40 will be found very satisfactory, while for ornamental work, No. 70 is best. To Wash Fine Tatting. Baste the work on a piece of clean cloth and lay it on the grass in the sun. Make a warm suds and throw over the work. If the tatting is much soiled this operation must be repeated three or four times, Before it dries, rinse by throwing over it clear water. and then bluing water. Allow the work to dry be- fore removing from the cloth; then place over it a thin, damp cloth and press with a hot iron. If these directions are carefully followed, not even an expert can detect that the work has been washed, as the thickening of the thread is imperceptible, and the picots retain their shape, which they will not do if the tatting is washed in the ordinary way. Modern Method of Making Tatting. (For Illustrations see Page 6.) In issuing this pamphlet we have taken it for granted that those who make or wish to make tat- ting, are acquainted with the method that has been so long employed, and that they would appreciate a more modern method, especially as by it tatting is more gracefully and rapidly made and with even less exertion than by the now old-fashioned method. With this idea in view, we have prepared engravings of the several movements required for the new method, showing the necessary positions of the hands, thread and shuttle for each detail. Nos. i, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. — The first movement, shown at No. i, is the same as that of the older method, the thread being wrapped around the fingers of the left hand to form a circle and brought out from under the thumb. Then the shuttle is grasped as seen in the picture, with the second ringer of the right hand between the thread and the shuttle. Now raise the thread with the second finger, as seen at figure No. 2, and slip the shuttle entirely under it and the circle on the left hand, bringing it back over the circle and under the lifted thread as seen at No. 3. Then, holding the shuttle- thread taut, form a loop of the circle-thread as seen at figure No. 4, drawing it down close to the thumb with the second finger. This forms the first half of the stitch. Now, to make the other half : Hold the shuttle the same as in the first movement, except that you allow the thread to drop loosely down as seen at figure No. 5. Pass the shuttle over the circle and bring it back under it as shown by Nos. 5 and 6 ; and then pull up another loop (the second half of a stitch) the same as at No. 4. This completes one stitch. By a little practice this me- thod will soon become very easy to a beginner, and a favorite with an expert, who will at once realize its advantages over the older method. TATTING AND NETTING. Plain Tatting and Picots. Nos. 7 and 8. — These engravings show how to make and join the rings of plain tatting. The method of making the stitches has been fully ex- plained; and picots are the long loops seen between the stitches of nearly all designs in tatting. At No. 7 the method of making picots is plainly illustrated, the long loop showing how two stitches entirely through the loop, and the thread drawn taut. Then five more stitches are made ; next the center picot ; then five more stitches, another picot and five more stitches. Then the circle is drawn down to form the ring, which is sometimes fastened by a knot made, something like the joining of picots, by picking the thread up through the con- necting thread of the last ring with a pin, thrusting the shuttle through the loop thus made and drawing No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No 4. NO. 5. No. 6. No. 7. are divided by it in the formation of a picot. Sometimes picots are made between the two halves of one stitch ; but this is not the usual method; the majority of tatting-workers make them between two whole stitches as repre- sented at No. 7. Picots are made both for ornament and use. It is by them that the rings of a design are provided with feathery-looking edges and are also fastened to each other. The latter process, together with the plainest complete tatting design made, may be seen at No. 8, where a series of rings are joined by picots to form a simple edging. After the last whole ring, the picture shows the next ring begun. Five whole stitches are made, and then the circle-thread is picked up through the last picot of the last ring with a pin, the shuttle thrust Nos. 7 and 8.- No. 8. -Plain Tatting and Picots. the latter down into a knot at the ends of the ring. Plain tatting is occasionally made without picots and the rings are then separate from each other. Picots may be added in any number or groupings desired. Sometimes they alternate with the stitches across the entire top of a ring ; and sometimes but three are made, according to the fancy of the maker or the details of the design. TATTING AND NETTING. No. 9. — Tatting with Two Threads. attached to the second one by the method just re- Tatting With Two Threads. ferred to No IO shows very piainiy how the No. 9. — Owing to numerous inquiries that have work is joined and progresses. Clover-Leaf Edge: Made With Two Threads. No. 11. — The picots in this edging are made short to prevent extra work when washed and ironed. Two threads are used, one of which is wound in the usual manner on a shuttle, while the other may be left on the spool if two shuttles (as shown in No. 9) are not conveniently at hand. Make the leaves thus: 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d, s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; make 2 more rings and join as shown in the engrav- ings; then make a ch. with both threads thus: 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s. ; next work the 3 leaves close together as shown, and repeat. Tatted Insertion: Made With Two Threads. No. 12. — In making this insertion 2 threads are used. Begin with 1 thread and make a ring of been received as to the method of making tatting 4 d. s., then 3 p., each separated by 4 d. s., then with two threads, we have prepared this illustration 4 d. s., and close. Next use the 2 threads and as the quickest and best way of explaining the make a ch. of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. Make another matter. ring like the first, but where the 1st p. would come In beginning, when the two threads are to be join to the corresponding p. of last ring, and so used close together, or, when the second thread is to be used later on, tie the first and second threads together. When the sec- ond thread is to be used, grasp its joining to the first closely between the thumb and first finger, carry it over the fingers and wrap it around the third or fourth finger as most convenient (see en- graving), allowing its shuttle to fall loosely below the hand. (It is never formed into a ring as is the first thread.) Now with the first shuttle and thread work in the ordinary manner, the same as though it were the first thread that is upon the left hand. The worker will learn for herself that she will not need to draw this thread when the required number of stitches are made, but will simply drop it from her hand and proceed with the first thread as before, taking it up again, as described, when the directions call for it. Plain Tatting Insertion. No. 10. — It will be seen by this engraving that plain tatting and plain tatting-insertion are made upon exactly the same plan, except that the work is turned with every new ring; that is, one ring is first made and then a second one is worked a short distance from it, but the two art not con- nected. Then the work is turned and a third ring is made and attached by a p. to the first one, after the manner illustrated at No. 8. Then the work is turned again and a fourth ring is made and No. 10. — Plain Tatting Insertion. No. 11. — Clover-Leaf Edge: with Two Threads. Made continue, making rings and chains until the desired length is obtained. Make another strip like the first, and join it as made by the middle p. of ring to the corresponding p. of ring in first strip. When the middle joining picots of the rings of this No. 12.— Tatted Insertion: Made with Two Threads. decoration are left quite long, the insertion may be used as a beading by running baby ribbon through the spaces, over the long picots. Very pretty yokes for infants garments may be made of this beading. TATTING AND NETTING. Tatted Pointed Edging. No. 13. — This trimming consists of wheels, each composed of 5 rings and joined to form points. No. 13. — Tatted Pointed Edging. To make a Ring. — Make 4 d. s., then 3 p. each separated by 4 d. s., then 4 d. s. and close; make 4 more rings close together like the last one, but join each ring after making the first 4 d. s. ; then after the 5 are completed, tie closely to form the wheels. Each point consists of 6 wheels. Make the lowest wheel first, then join the next two as shown in the picture, and finally the upper row of 3 wheels. After making as many points as desired, make a strip for the heading thus, using two threads: First, with one thread make a ring like those in the wheel, then with two threads make a chain of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. ; continue to make the rings and chains, join- ing each ring to the last one made by the side p.; then join the heading to the points as shown in the picture, either as it is made, or tie it on after the strip is completed. Edging of Tatting. No. 14. — For this edging use 2 threads, and work first, with one thread only, the large center ring (see right end of cut) as follows: 3 d. s., 16 times alternately 1 p., 2 d. s. ; then 3 d. s., and close in a ring; then turn the ring downward, and work with both threads, one scollop of 2 d. s. ; 7 times alternately 1 p., 3 d. s. ; then 1 long p., 4 d. s. ; turn the work, and close to this scollop, with one thread, work a ring of 4 d. s., 6 times alternately 1 p., and 2 d. s. ; then 1 more p., and 4 d. s. ; turn the work again, and close to this, with both threads, make 1 scollop of 2 d. s., twice alternately 1 p., and 3 d. s., then 1 more p., 2 d. s. ; turn the work and close to this, with one thread, make one ring like the one worked before, but instead of forming the 2nd p., fasten to the p. before the last of the preceding ring; and instead of forming the middle p. of the ring, fasten to the 4th p. of the large ring. Turn the work, and with both threads work 1 scollop like the one worked before; turn the work, and with one thread make 1 ring of 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., fasten to the p. before the last of the preceding ring, 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., fasten to the 2nd following p. of the large ring; 2 d. s., and 4 times alternately, 1 p., 2 d. s., making 4 d. s. after last p. Now turn the work, and with both threads, work 4 d. s. ; turn the work again, and close to this, with one thread make a ring of 2 d. s., 9 times alternately 1 p., and 2 d. s., and turn the work. Work the other half of this scollop in reversed succes- sion of rings and scollops, then repeat from beginning, joining the long scollop to the first one as seen in the engraving. Tatted Insertion. No. 15. — This insertion is made with 2 threads. Begin with the large ring as follows: 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up. Now with both threads, work 4 d. s. Next with shuttle thread work 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., draw up. Next with both threads work 4 d. s. Now make another large ring; join the two rings together with the last p. of the 1 st ring, and the 1st p. of the last ring. No. 14. — Edging of Tatting. No. 15. — Tatted Insertion. The 2nd part is made the same as the 1st, except that you loop the thread in the small ring of 1 picot, instead of making 1 picot. TATTING AND NETTING. 9 Tatting and Braid Insertion. No. 1 6. — This insertion is very effective and is rapidly made, having for a foundation one of the fancy braids which are so largely used. For the Three-Leaved Figure. — Make 5 d. s., 2 long p., with 2 d. s. between, 2 d.s., fasten in p. of braid, 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., close. Second ring. — Working close to this ring make 5 d. s., fasten to p. of 1st ring, 5 d. s., omit three picots of the braid and fasten to the 4th ; 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., close. Third ring. — Make 5 d. S., fasten to p. of 2nd ring, 5 d. s., omit three p. of the braid and fasten in 4th, 2 d. s., 2 long p., with 2 d. s. between, 5 d. s., close. Reverse your work for each alternate figure. Tatted Edging. No. 17. — The first row of this edging is worked alternately with two threads, the other two rows with one thread only. First row.—* With one thread only, work a ring of 5 times alternately 3 d. s., and 1 p., then 3d. s.; then turn the ring downward, and with both threads work a chain of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. ; turn the work up again and repeat from * for the length desired. Second row. — In order to form the points, work on each 3 rings of the first row 2 rings worked the same as the first row of rings, and join between 2 rings by the last p. of first ring and first p. of following ring, and also join to each other. Third ro7i'. — Finally, work 1 ring on each 2 rings of previous row, as shown by the illustration. Tatted Rosette-Edging. No. 18. — Begin at the center and make a ring of $'$$J^rJ %mS4i> ^#i No. 16. — Tatting ANT) Bratp Insertion. No. 17. — Tatted Kdging. 1st ]>., then make 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s. ; close, catch in next p., and repeat these rings until there are 12, catching the last one in the same p. the thread was first tied in. For the next round, make rings of 8 Ssarap iiSFki °3W to* <•$£ V c^*"*'* ~Y-:°^£4' A. % 0 §3s c O — >.- SSI %■ 0^ 12 p., each separated by 3 d. s. ; close. Now, with- out breaking the thread, continue to make the tiny rings in the 1st row. First, catch the thread in the No. 18. — Tatted Rosette-Edging. p., each separated by 2 d. s., and also having 2 d. s. at the beginning and end. After making the 1st ring catch the thread in the 1st p. of ring in last round, then also tie it in the last p. of ring just made; repeat until there are 12 of these rings, catching the last one the same as in the last round; and break the thread. Next make the 3-ring figure at the top of wheel. Make 5 d. s., then make 5 p. each separated by 3 d. s., then 5 d. s. and close. Make 2 more rings like last one, but instead of making the 4th p. in the 2nd ring, join it to the middle p. of a ring in the wheel; then in the 3rd ring join at the 2nd p. Now, for the outside row make rings the same as for the 2nd row of rings, joining thus: Make 1 ring, tie in the last p. made, then tie it to the 4th p. of the top ring in 3-leaved figure; make another ring, tie it to last p. made; then tie it to 2nd p. in next ring; now make 2 rings, tying the 2nd one to the middle p. of ring in wheel, then to the last p. in ring just made; and after this tie each one in the p., after tying the ring to wheel instead of before. * Make 1 ring, tie to wheel, and repeat twice more from *; then 2 rings, tie to wheel, then 1 ring, tie to wheel. This brings you to the center. Work the other side exactly the same, making the 2 rings at the upper and lower part come opposite each other, and tie last thread to 1st ring. Tie each rosette to the last one made, at the middle p. of the 6th ring from the top. Make the 3-ring figures between the rosettes with 8 d. s., then 7 p. each separated by 3 d. s., then 8 d. s., and close; make 2 more rings like the last, and tie the last thread to the 1st one. Tie these figures to the rosettes at the 3rd ring from the top, tying the middle p. of each ring together. To make the Heading. — Make rings of 12 p. each separated by 2 d. s., and joined as made; after making the 1st ring carry the thread along, 10 TATTING AND NETTING. and fasten in the opposite p. from where it was drawn up. Tie heading to rosettes, tying it first in the 3rd p. of the top ring in 3-leaved figure; then tie the next ring in heading to the 5th p. of same ring; skip 1 ring in heading, and tie the middle p. No. 19. — Edging of Tatting. of next ring to the middle p. in the top ring of rosette, skip 1 ring, and repeat for rest of work. Edging ok Tatting. No. 19. — The rings of this edging are worked No. 20. — Tatted Insertion-Edging. with one thread, and the scollops with two. Work as follows : Make * 1 ring of 7 d. s., 1 picot, 7 d. s.; turn the work, and with both threads work 1 scollop of 3 d. s., and 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s.; then 3 d. s., turn the work again and work 2 rings like the preceding, but instead of forming the p. in the first of these rings, join to the p. of the ring already finished ; turn the work, make 1 scollop like the preceding, turn, make 2 rings and 1 scollop like the preceding; turn, make 1 ring of 7 d. s., join to the p. of the preceding ring; 7 d. s., turn, make twice alter- nately, 1 scollop and 1 ring like the preceding ones; join the rings to the same p. to which the preceding ring was joined, so that a figure of 4 connected rings is formed. Now complete the next 2 figures, to correspond. After turning the work, make for the upper edge of the edging 1 scollop of 3 d. s., and 3 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 3 d. s.; turn again and repeat from *, but join the next 3 scol- lops, instead of forming the middle p., to the cor- responding p. of the 3 scollops last worked. Tatted Insertion-Edging. No. 20. — First ring {on upper edge). — Make 4 d. s., 1 picot, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. Second ring {the large one). — * Make a ring of 9 p., with 2 d. s. between each, and 3 d. s. before the first and after the last p.; turn. Third ring. — 4 d. s., catch in last p. of 1st ring, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. ; turn. Fourth ring {the small ring). — 3 d. s., catch in the last p. of the large ring, 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 3d. s. ; turn. Fifth ring. — 4 d. s., catch in last p. of 3rd ring, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. ; turn. Repeat from *, joining the first p. to last p. of small ring. Draw each ring up close, leaving a short thread between. Tatted Insertion and Edging. Nos. 21 and 22.— These two designs are made of silk, although cotton may be used, if preferred. Both are composed of rings and figures and are made with 2 threads. For a Figure. — Begin with the shuttle silk and make a ring of 5 d. s., then 8 p., each separated by 5 d. s., and draw up. * Now take the 2 threads and make 7 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., skip 1 p. in the ring (the first picot made), and tie in the next p., and repeat 3 times more from *. Make each ring the same as the ring in the figures, and tie together after all are made. The insertion consists of the figures and rings tied together alternately, the rings each being tied No. 21. — Tatted Insertion. by 2 p. with 1 p. between, to the 1st and last p. of 2 chs. in the figure (see picture). The upper part of the edging is arranged like the insertion, with a figure tied to the chains of 2 figures below each ring (see picture). To make the Heading. — Tie the 2 threads in No. 22. — Tatted Edging. the 1 st of the 2 p. on top, then make 2 d. s., tie in next p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., tie in next p., 2 d. s., tie in next p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., and repeat from beginning. The insertion may, when made of silk, be used as a passemen- terie, and the same is true of the edging. TATTING AND NETTING. 11 Tatted Edging. No. 23. — Work with 2 threads and make a ch. of 5 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. ; then with 1 thread, 1 ring of 6 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., draw up ; with 2 threads make 1 d. s.; then with 1 thread again make 7 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., and draw up; with 2 threads make another ch. of 5 d. v, 1 p., 2 d. s. ; with 1 thread a ring of 3 d. s., join to list ring, then 3 d. s. ; 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s.; 1 ch. with 2 threads ; then, with 1 thread make another ring like the last, except that there are 5 p. each separated by 2 d. s., instead of only 3 ; 1 ch., another ring like the one before the last, then a ch. of 2 d. s. ; join to p. of opposite ch.; 5 d. s., then a ring of 3 d. s., join to last ring, 4 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s.; 1 ch., another ring of 7 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. ; then a ch. of 6 d. s.; join to opposite p., 6 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., fasten neatly to the ring just below the p. (see picture); join the 2nd point to the p. of the last 2 rings, and work in this way until the strip is as long as desired. Fasten the loose threads of the 1st ch. made to the 1st p. in 1st ring to correspond with the last ch. For the Heading. — Crochet a ch. of 5, catch !;^^^-.»^i=*is,svjr:?s:;*^;?='SSi2;xrit«tM No. 23 —Tatted Edging. in the 1st p., 5 ch., catch in the next, and repeat across the work. Tatted Insertion. No. 24. — This insertion has for its center a piece of lace beading through which narrow rib- bon can be run, and is especially adapted for the ends of bureau-scarfs and other decoration where No. 24. — Tatted Insertion. a fine, and at the same time rapidly made trim- ming is required. Begin with the large ring. Make 5 d. s., 1 p., * 3 d. s., 5 p., with 1 d. s. between, 3 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up. Working close to this ring make 6 d. s., fasten to end thread, 6 d. s., fasten to beading, 6 d. s., draw up. Second large ring: 5 d. s., fasten to last p. of large ring ; repeat work from *. Reverse the work for the lower side. Tatted Edging. No. 25. — This pretty, easily made edging is worked in 3 rows, with 1 and with 2 threads alter- FSJK jr /A 1 9 £ % *k '■ No. 25. — Tatted Edging. nately used. For the first row work as follows: First row. — With one thread only make a ring of 6 d. s„ 1 p., 6 d. s. ; draw the stitches together; * turn the work upside down, and with both threads No. 26. — Narrow Tatted Edging. work a scollop of 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. ; turn the work, and with one thread work 2 rings like the preced- ing one, but fasten the 1st ring to the ring worked previously. Repeat from *. Second row. — With one thread work a ring of 6 d. s. ; fasten to the joining p. of the 1st 2 rings in the preceding row; 6 d. s.; turn the work, * and with both threads work a scollop of 6 d. s. ; make 1 p., 6 d. s. ; turn the work, and with one thread make 2 rings like the preceding, joining the 1st to the same joining-picot of the preceding, and the 2nd ring to the next joining-picot; turn the work, and repeat from *. Third row. — Always alternately with one and two threads, make first a ring of 6 d. s. ; fasten to the 1st scollop of the preceding row, 6 d. s. ; draw the stitches together, turn the work, and with both threads work * a scollop of 2 d. s., 7 p., each sep- arated by 2 d. s.; finally 2 d. s. ; turn the work; make 1 ring like the preceding, joining to the next scollop; turn the work, and repeat from *. Crochet along the upper edge 1 s. c. in the p. of each scollop with 5 chain between. Narrow Tatted Edging. No. 26. — This edging is made with 2 threads. Begin with the shuttle thread thus: Make a ring of 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., close. Now take the 2nd thread and with the 2 make 12 TATTING AND NETTING. a ch. of 10 d. s., i p., 10 d. s. ; make another ring like the last i, joining it to the side p. of the ist ring after making the ist 6 d. s. ; then another ch. No. 27. — Wide Tatted Lace. Now make another ring, but instead of joining it to the side p. of the last i, join it to the center p. after making the 2nd 6 d. s. ; now make another ch., then another ring, joining this one to the side p. of the last ring, and to the center p. of the ist ring made. Now make another ch. thus : 3 d. s., then 4 p., each separated by 3 d. s., then 3 d. s., and repeat from the beginning for all the work, joining the ist ch. to the last one instead of making the p. Wide Tatted Lace. No. 27. — This is a very handsome edging, and not difficult to make. One thread alone is used throughout the work. Begin with the center ring and work 1 d. s., 12 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 1 d. s., draw the stitches together and fasten the thread in ist p. ; * 4 d. s., 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s.; draw the stitches up and fasten thread to next p. of middle ring; repeat from * all around, but in- stead of forming ist p. of each ring, join to last p. of preceding ring; and in working the last ring, instead of forming last p. join to ist p. of the ist ring worked. This completes a wheel. Work as many wheels as desired, joining them to each other as made by the middle p. of 2 consecutive rings. To form the Points. — Join a wheel between the ist and 2nd wheels by 4 consecutive rings, 2 to ist wheel just below the joining, and 2 to next wheel; join another between 3rd and 4th wheels and so continue all across. To work the Insertion. — 4 d. s., 5 p., each sepa- rated by 2 d. s., then 4 d. s., draw the stitches together, turn the ring downward, leave a short space of thread and work another ring like the ist; * turn again, leave a short space of thread and work another similar ring, but instead of forming ist p., join to last p. of ist ring. Repeat from * all across, but fasten in working, to the row of wheels already worked, joining by the middle p. of 2 consecutive rings to 2 upper rings of each wheel, and having 3 rings in each space between wheels. Now work another row of wheels, joining them to the upper rings of the insertion just opposite the wheels of lower row. Then another row of insertion, joining to the upper rings of the wheels as shown by the illustration. Tatted Lace. No. 28. — This very pretty lace is quickly made, being worked throughout with one thread only. It may, however, be worked with silk, linen or cotton thread, as preferred. Begin in the center and work 1 d. s., 12 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 1 d. s., and draw the stitches together; leave a short space of thread and work 7 d. s., join to ist p. of the ring just made, 7 d. s., draw the stitches together; * leave a short space of thread and work a large ring of 5 d. s. and 7 p., each separated by 2 d. s. ; then 5 d. s. and draw up; turn the work and leaving the space of thread work a small ring as before, joining to the next p. of the center ring; turn the work and repeat from * all round, but instead of forming ist p. of each large ring, join to last p. of previous ring; and after completing the round, instead of forming last p. of the large ring, join to the ist ring made. Work a strip of the rosettes as long as desired, joining them to each other in working. After com- pleting the strip, to make the point, place a rosette No. 28. — Tatted Lace. between the ist two rosettes, joining to each, as shown by the illustration, between the 2nd and 3rd rosettes. Work a three-leaved figure and join to the TATTING AND NETTING. L8 rosettes, each section of the figure made like the large rings of the rosettes; then between the 3rd and 4th rosettes, make a rosette for the point ; continue across. To Form the Heading. — Work rings like those of the rosettes, joining to the 3 upper rings of each rosette, making 2 rings between each without joining. Be careful to leave enough thread between the rings to keep the edge straight. Tatting and Crochet Edge. No. 29. — This edge may be made with thread in numbers ranging from 40 to 60. To work the Rosettes. — Work a ring of 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p.; repeat until you have 12 p. with 3 d. s. between each p.; close up the stitches. * Leave a short space of thread, make 3 d. s., join to 1st p. of the center ring, make 3 d. s., close up the stitches. Leave a short space of thread, then make 2 d. s., 1 p., 14 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s.; close up the stitches. Repeat from * until all the p. around the center ring are filled. This makes a rosette; join the rosettes while making, or they can be joined with needle and thread after they are made. The second row consists of a half-rosette and 3- leaved figures, the latter being made as follows: 2 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., 1 p„ 6 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s.; close up the stitches. Make 2 d. s., join to the last p. of the pre- vious leaf; make 10 d. s., 1 p., 10 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. ; close up stitches; make 2 d. s., join to the last p. of last leaf; make 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., close up stitches and fasten all 3 leaves together with a knot. Leave 2 inches of thread for one thread of stem. Make 4 of these 3-leaved figures. With a crochet needle make a chain of 27 stitches, then make 1 d. c. in each stitch of chain. Baste the rosettes on a stiff piece of paper, and fasten the button-hole stitch over the stem ; baste the 3-leaved figures on the paper and make stems in the same way; join all the stems together near the end of the main stem. Make alternate rows of the rosettes No. 29.— Tatttn-g akd Crochet Kdge. crochet to the rosettes with needle and thread. Then baste the half rosette on the paper and fasten to the crocheted strip ; with needle and thread make a stem of 3 threads to the half-rosette and No. 30. — Tatted Lace. and the 3-leaved figures, separated by the strip. Finish the upper edge with a crocheted strip. Tatted Lace. No. 30. — This pretty lace is made with 2 threads. Begin thus: With the shuttle make a ring of 5 d. s., then 5 p. each separated by 3 d. s., then 5 d. s. and close. Now with the 2 threads, make a ch. of 5 d. s., 5 p., each separated by 3 d. s., then 5 d. s,; make another ring like the last one, but join it to the corresponding p. of last ring after making the first 5 d. s. Continue the rings and chs. until there are 15 rings; then break the thread and tie neatly at each end. Now make each of the 4-leaved figures as follows: 8 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s., and draw up; close to the last one make another ring, then 2 more, and tie the last one close to the first one of the 4 by the 2 threads, to preserve the shape. Make another figure like the last one, and join it to the first figure by the middle p. of one of the rings (see picture). Now tie the middle p. of the ring opposite the tying to the middle p. of the center-ring in the strip first made; skip 2 rings, tie to the middle p. of next ring at each side, then skip 2 more rings, and tie the next figure in the same way (see pic- ture). Make as many scollops as desired and tie together by 4 chs., tying at the middle p. in each chain. For the Heading. — Make the same as the first strip, tying it to the scollops as seen in the pic- ture; then make a row of the 4-leaved figures, tying to the first row, and finish with a ch. made of the 2 threads thus: Tie in a p. at the top, make 3 d. s., then * 6 p., each separated by 3 d. s., then 3 d. s.; join to p. in ring underneath, 1 d. s., and repeat from *. If the work seems to draw, make another p. and 3 d. s. between each joining. 14 TATTING AND NETTING. Design for Tatting. No. 31. — The design illustrated may be used for No. 31. — Design for Tatting. edging, insertion, flouncing, scarfs, collars, cuffs, handkerchiefs or any article for which tatting is pretty and suitable. The wheels are made separately and joined as seen in the engraving; and each row of circles or rings in every wheel is also made sep- arately, and the rows are then united with a needle and thread. The inner row consists of 14 tiny rings about an eighth of an inch apart, each formed of 6 d. s. separated at the middle (between the 3rd and 4th stitches) by a very long p. (see engraving). The 14 rings are joined in a circle, and the cen- ter is filled in with two rows of twisted rick-rack stitch as seen in the engraving, the first row being taken through the lower centers of the tiny rings. The next row is taken through the loops formed by the first row, and then the thread is carried around each of these loops to draw the work into a ring. The second row consists of 14 rings a little less than one-fourth of an inch apart, each ring being formed of 6 d. s. alternating with 5 long p. In joining this row to the center or inner row, the needle and thread are passed through the lower centers of these rings and through the very long p. of the inner row at the same time, and a sort of button-hole or knot stitch is made; then the thread passes along back of the work and knots the lower p. of the adjoining rings together, and so on around the circle. The outer row consists of 14 rings about one-fourth of an inch apart, and each formed of n d. s. and 10 p.; and this row is joined to the second row, the same as the latter is joined to the inner row. The small figures joining the wheels are composed of rings each made of 7 d. s., 1 long P-, 3 d. s., 1 long p.,3 d. s., 1 long p. and 7 d. s. The rings are made close together and then tied into the shape illustrated. They are then tied at their p. to those of the wheels as seen in the engraving, and the wheels themselves are also knotted together at their p. An expert might join the wheels and fig- ures while making the work, by the regular method of joining circles by their p.; but unless one is skilled in this variety of work, it will be well to follow the instructions herein given; but in tying the knots great care must be exercised to make them firmly so that they will not slip when the ends of the thread are cut off; and while these ends must be cut off closely enough to prevent a ragged effect, they must not be cut so closely as to be likely to slip. Tatted Lace. No. 32. — Take a piece of lace braid and work with the double thread a row of chains, each composed as follows: 10 d. s., 1 p., 10 d. s. ; attach to the braid at intervals of three-eighths of an inch. The 2nd and 3rd rows are worked in the same manner, but are joined to the picots of the previous rows instead of the braid. The center ring of the wheels consists of 8 p., No. 32 — Tatted Lace. with 3 d. s. between; draw up, pass the thread through the 1st. p., and make 5 d. s., 1 p., * 3 d. s., 5 p., with 1 d. s. between each, 3 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s. ; TATTING AND NETTING. 15 draw up, pass thread through next p. of center ring, make 5 d. s., join to last p. of 1st ring; repeat from *. Continue till the wheel is complete, having attached it to the upper por- tion of your edging as shown in the illustration. Tatted Trimming. No. 33. — This very dainty edging, with an insertion above separated by a nar- row strip of linen, is suitable for trimming underwear and is made with 2 threads. To make the Upper Pari or Insertion. — Begin by mak- ing a ring with 1 thread thus: 4 d. s., then 5 p., each separated by 3 d. s., 4 d. s., and draw up; now take the 2nd thread, and with the 2 threads make a ch. of 8 d s., * then another ring like the last one, except that you join it to the last p. of last ring after making the 4 d. s.; then begin again with the 2 threads and make one half-stitch, 1 p., then 8 d. s., and repeat from * until the desired length is made. Next, use 1 thread first, and make a ring like those first made, but join it to the p. in the ch. where the middle p. of the ring would come; then make a ch. with the 2 threads of 7 d. s., then another to the center ring where every other p. would come. Next make the lower part or edging. in the ch. Make the No. 33. — Tatted Trimming. ring, then another ch., then another ring, but join this ring to the 3rd p. (secpicture), and continue in this way across the strip first made. Next row. — Make a strip like first one, but join it No. 34. — Tatted Wheei^Lace. double row of rings thus: With 1 thread make a ring of 4 d. s., 5 p. each separated l>y 4 d. s., then 4 d. s. and draw up; make a ch. of 9 d. s. with the 2 threads, * then another ring joined to the last one after making the first 4 d. s., 1 p., another ch., and repeat from *. Next make another strip like the last, but join it to every p. in the ch., instead of making the p. (see picture.) For the Lower Edge. — * Make a ring of 4 d. s., 3 p., each separated by 3 d. s., join to middle p. of ring of heading, 3 d. s., 3 p., each separated by 3 d. s. ; then 4 d. s. and close. Now with the 2 threads make a ch. of 12 d. s., then another ring with 5 d. s., 7 p., each separated by 4 d. s., 5 d. s. and close; make another ch. of 12 d. s., and repeat from *, but in joining the rings to the heading skip 1 ring, thus joining to every other ring. Tatted Wheel-Lace. No. 34. — Lace beading is used for the heading of this lace, which consists of wheels arranged as shown in the picture. The spaces are filled in with lace stitches or those similar to the ones used in drawn work (see picture). To make a Wheel. — Make a ring of 3 d. s., then ri p., each separated by 3 d. s., and close. For the outer row. — Make 3 d. s., catch in a p. of ring, 3 d. s., and draw up; then at a little distance from the tiny ring make a large ring of 2 d. s., 9 long p., each separated by 2 d. s., 2 d. s., and close. Make a knot to hold the ring close, then continue to make tiny and large rings alternately, but join the large rings to each other where the second picot would come. Any style of lace braid may be used for the heading. This lace, when made of very fine thread forms an exquisitely dainty border for a handkerchief. 16 TATTING AND NETTING. Tatted Edging. No. 35. — This edging consists of large wheels and small figures, which are all made separately, and then tied together as seen in the illustration. First make as many large wheels as the length of the t r i m- ming desir- ed calls for. For the Wheel.— Make 2d. s., then 12 long p. each separated by 2 d. s.; drawupand break the thread. Now make a tiny ring of 6 d. s., catch in a p. of center ring, 6 d. s., and close. Turn the work, and make a large ring, a short distance from the last one, of 5 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., then 5 p. each separated by 2 d. s., 3 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., and close; repeat these two rings until there are 12 of each, and join the second large ring to the first one after making the 5 d. s., at the corresponding p.; and also in making the last ring, join it to the corresponding p. of the first ring instead of making the last p.; then tie the two threads left neatly together to finish the wheel. To make the Figure at the Lower Edge. — Make a ring of 4 d. s., then 8 p. each separated by 4 d. s., and close. Now take the other thread, and with the two make a chain of 5 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., then 4 p. each separated by 3 d. s., 5 d. s., and tie to the second p. made in a ring; repeat the chains 3 times more, skipping one p. be- tween each tying; and after the last chain is tied to the p., tie the 4 threads Na 36.-Tatted Edging, together and cut as close as possible. Now tie the wheels together at the middle p. of 2 rings, and then tie the small figures to the wheels as seen in the picture, leaving 2 rings free in each wheel between each figure, and 1 p. free in the figure, between the tying. For the Heading. — Make 4 d. s., then 7 p. each separated by 4 d. s., then 4 d. s., and close; carry the thread along the back and tie in the center p.; now make another ring like the last, tie in the same p., and repeat for all the rings. Tie this to the large wheels, leaving 2 rings free between each wheel, and tying the middle p. of 2 rings of the heading to the mid- dle p. of 2 rings in the wheels (see pic t u re). Now take the second thread and tie to the middle p. of thefirst ring in head- ing; then with both threads make a chain of 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., and tie to mid- dle p. of next ring, and repeat work. Make the picots all long. Tatted Edging. No. 36. — In making this edging the picots around the rings are made double the ordinary length. First ring. — 5 d. s., then 5 p. with 5 d. s. between each, 5 d. s., close. Work at the bottom of ring, No. 35. — Tatted Edging. for all the using double thread, 5 d. s., 2 long p. with 5 d. s. between each, then 5 d. s. The second ring, at- tached to 1st p. of large ring, consists of 5 d. s. made four times, and separated each time by 3 p. ; then draw up. With double thread, work 5 d. s., then 2 p. with 5 d. s. between each, then 5 d. s. Repeat from r st ring. For the Edge, working with double thread from 1st picot in large ring. — * 1 d. s., then four picots with 2 d. s. between each, then 1 d. s., join to middle p. of large ring, 1 d.s.,4p. with 2 d. s. between each, then r d. s.; join to 3rd p. of large ring, 5 d. s., join to p. of small ring, 5 d. s,, join to the 1st p. of large ring. Repeat from *. The object of the long p. is to produce that feathery effect which so enhances the beauty of tatting, especially where the latter is made of fine thread. The fineness of the thread selected is a matter of individual taste. TATTING AND NETTING. 17 Tattkd Insertion. No. 37. — This insertion consists of two styles of wheels. The wheel having the square at the renter is made with 2 threads. The first wheel at the right hand is made thus: Make a ring of 8 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s., 1 p., Sd. s. and draw up; now take the 2 threads and make a ch. of 9 d. s., and repeat 3 times more; then end with a ch. of 9 d. s. and tie to the 1st thread to form the square center. Now tie the 2 threads to the cen- ter p. of a ring, and * make a ch. of 6 d. s. ; then with 1 thread make a ring of 3 d. s., then 5 p., each separated by 3 d. s., then 3 d. s. and close. Now make another ch. of 6 d. s. hnd tie in the side p. of same ring, a ch. of 6 d. s., tie in the side p. of opposite ring, 1 ch. of 6 d. 3., a ring like the last one, 1 ch. of 6 d. s., tie in the middle p., and repeat from *, tying the last ch. to the first one where it started (see picture). This completes the first wheel. To make the second wheel, use only 1 thread. First make a ring of 3 d. s., then 8 p. each separated by 3 d. s.; draw up and tie closely, then break the thread. Next make a tiny ring of 7 d. s., join to a p. of center ring, 7 d. s., and close. Turn the work and at a little distance from the last ring make a ring of 3 d. s., then 7 p. each separated by 3 d. s., then 3 d. s. and close; make another tiny ring, then a large ring like the last, except that you make 9 p. instead of 7 and join at the 2nd p.; then repeat from the beginning of round, and tie the last 2 rings together to correspond with the others. Tie the wheels together as shown in the picture. Crochet an edge at the top and bottom thus: Tie the thread in the middle p. of a wheel, * make n ch., skip 1 ring, 1 tr. c. in the 2nd p. from joining of next ring, 1 tr. c. in the 1st p. of ring in next wheel (see picture), n ch., 1 s. c. in 3rd p. of next ring, 5 ch., 1 s. c. in 3rd p. of next ring, 1 1 ch., 1 tr. c. in each of tne p. of the joining, the same as before, 1 1 ch., 1 s. c. in the middle p. of middle ring, and repeat from *. Next row. — D. c. with 2 ch. between in every 3rd Stitch. Final row, between. work in every space, with 2 chs. No. 37. — Tatted Insertion Design in Tatting. No. 38. — This edging is composed of 2 sets of wheels joined to tiny 4-leaved figures with a needle and thread. The upper edge is formed by a single row of rings, and similar single rings between the wheels. To make the upper row of Wheels. — Make each wheel as follows: For the center make 13 d. s. alternating with 12 long p., and close in a ring. Now begin a tiny ring by 3 d. s., catch to the 1st p. of the ring just made; 3 d. s. and close the ring. Turn the work, make 4 d. s., 7 p. each separated by 1 d. s., then 4 d. s. Turn and make another small ring, joining it to the next p.; then a large ring, but instead of making the 1st p., join it to the last p. of the adjoin- ing large ring. Repeat in this manner around the center, fastening the last ring to the one first made. To make the Rick-Rack Wheels. — Make 8 rings, each as follows: 5 d. s., 9 p. each separated by 1 d. s., then 5 d. s., joining the rings by their lower p. as made. Now fill in the center by a long many-twisted rick- rack stitch drawn nearly together at the center by a single thread. To make the Small Figures. — Make each ring of 4 d. s., 1 long p., 2 d. s., 1 long p., 2 d. s., 1 long p., 4 d. s. Arrange and tie to form the 4-leaved effect. To make the Bead- ing.— Each ring is formed of 10 d. s. each separated by a p. When all the parts are made, knot them together with a needle and thread as seen in To in- the No. 3S. — Design in Tattixg. the engraving, form the design tended, arrange wheels as follows: First ro7c. — All ring- wheels. Second row. — Single ring-wheels alternating 3 rick-rack wheels. -Alternating ring and rick-rack with groups of Third row. wheels. Fourth row. — Single rick-rack wrheels, alternating with groups of 3 ring-wheels. This arrangement will produce a pointed outline with the rick-rack wheels. 18 TATTING AND NETTING. tti^i^is^^M-, 1 E^^^^iiuiwf«i^^^^^ WW 5^^^^%fi>TS 1' fit** trii fp is n F?&*£l fc^S^XW**^'.!3 la--' No. 39. — Design in Tatting. Design in Tatting, with Detail. Nos. 39 and 40. — This edging is very dainty and not difficult to make. All the rings are made in separate rows and sewed together to form the olive-shaped ornaments composing the design. No. 40 shows the ornaments for the lower edge in full size. To make the inner row of Rings. — For each upper and lower ring: Make 4 d. s., 1 long p., 3 d. s., 1 long p., 4 d. s., 1 long p., 4 d. s. and close. For each of the 6 remaining Rings.— $ d. s., 1 long p., 2 d. s., 1 long p., 2 d. s., 1 long p., 3 d. s. and close. Join the ends and fill in the center with a twisted rick-rack stitch, as seen in the engraving. For the next row. — Make each ring as follows : 8 d. s., with 1 p. between each, making 7 p. in all. For the Outer row. — Make each ring as follows : 10 d. s., with 1 p. between each, making 9 p. in all. Now join the second row to the inner row, and the outer row to the second row with a needle and thread as follows : Catch the rows to the middle p. of the rings underneath, and also fasten together the adjoining p. of the rings of each row as seen in the engraving. To form the lower edge of the design seen at No. 39, knot the ornaments together through their picots as seen in the engravings. No. 40 shows the ornaments as used alone for the edging, with a single row of rings as the head- ing. Each ring is formed of 10 d. s., with 1 p. between each. The rings in the three-leaved figure are each formed of 9 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 9 d. s. With a needle and thread join the three-leaved figures and the heading, knotting the picots of the heading as seen in the engraving. No. 39 shows the ornaments of No. 40 joined to form a lower edge to a very wide design, and united to a second row of wheels arranged between two rows of beading, or simple insertion. These wheels are each made as follows: First row of Rings. — Each of the 12 rings is made of 3 d. s., 1 long p., 1 d. s., 1 long p., 1 d. s., 1 long p., 3 d. s. The rings are joined and filled in with a twisted rick-rack stitch. The Outer r * 5 cn-> 2 d. c, keeping the last loop of the single, and double crochets underneath, and in the middle stitch of 5-ch. Next row. — 1). £. with 2 ch. between in every '-pace. Tatted Edging. No. 42. — This edge may be made with thread in No. 41.— Tatted Bdgino. 1st one on the needle in working off, until the 2nd one is picked up in the space between the figures; 5 ch., 1 s. c. in the middle p., and repeat from *. Next rou: — I), c. with 2 ch. between over the No. 42. — Tatted Edging. numbers ranging from 40 to 60. Make with 2 threads. To make a Leaf. — Tie the end of the shuttle thread to the thread on the spool. Now with the shuttle work 4 d. s. on spool thread, then with shuttle thread alone, work 2 d. s., 1 p. until you have 20 d. s. ; close up the stitches. * With shuttle work on spool thread 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s.; with shuttle thread alone work 2 d. s., join to last previous scollop, 2 d. s., 1 p., until you have Repeat from * to p. of 20 d. until a., close up stitches * you have 3 scollops. With the shuttle work on spool thread 4 d. s., then with shuttle thread alone work 2 d. s., join to last p. of previous scollop, work 2 d. s., 1 p., until you have 30 d. s. ; close up stitches. With shuttle work 4 d. s. on spool thread. * With shuttle thread alone make 2 d. s., join to last p. of pre- vious scollop, 2 d. s., 1 p., until you have 20 d. s. ; close up stitches. With shuttle make 4 d. s. on spool thread, join to opposite p. of leaf made with spool thread, 4 d. s. on spool thread *. Repeat from * to * till you have 3 scollops. This makes a leaf of 7 scollops. Then with shuttle make on spool thread 15 d. s., then with shuttle thread alone make 2 d. s., 1 p., until you have 10 d. s. ; join to middle p. of last scollop, 2 d. s., 1 p., until you have 10 d. s. ; close up stitches. Repeat frcm beginning of 1st scollop until you have another leaf of 7 scollops. When you have the desired number of leaves, tack them together with a needle and thread, then baste them on a piece of stiff paper, make a row of d. c. across the top and fill in centers with cobweb stitch done with needle and thread as represented in the engraving. 20 TATTING AND NETTING. Tatted Panel Lace. Nos. 43 and 44. — The shell panel of this lace is made with 2 threads. Make a ring of 2 d. s., then 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s., 2 d. s., and close; in the picture. To finish the upper edge make large and tiny rings the same as in the bar, joining every other large ring to the shells and bars (see picture). The trimming may be made as much deeper as desired by making more shells, and also by making the bars longer. No. 43. — Tatted Panel Lace. No. 44. — Tatted Panel for Lace. tie on the 2nd thread and make a ch. the same as the ring was made; now make a 2nd ring and join it to the corresponding p. of the 1st ring, where the 2nd p. would come; then make another ch., and continue rings and chs. until there are 6 rings and 5 chs; then fasten and cut the thread. Make 2 more shells and join each to the last one when making, as shown in the picture of the panel or insertion at No. 44. The bar between the shells is made with 1 thread thus: Make a ring of * 2 d. s., 7 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s., and close, leaving about an eighth of an inch of thread; turn the work and make a tiny ring of 1 d. s., 3 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 1 d. s. and close; turn, and make another ring like the last one, but where the first p. would come join it to the corresponding p. of the large ring. Turn again and make another tiny ring, then re- peat from * until there are 5 large rings (see picture); then make 2 tiny rings and 1 large ring; this brings you to the bottom. Now work up the other side to correspond with the one just made, and join the tiny rings through the center, as seen Tatted Edging. No. 45. — Begin with 1 thread and make a ring of 9 d. s., 1 p., then 6 d. s., and draw up. Fasten on the 2nd thread and make a ch. of n d. s., then a ring with 1 thread thus: 10 d. s., draw up; take the 2 threads again, tie so as to hold the ring close, then continue the ch. with 2 d. s., 4 long p. each separated by 3 d. s., 12 d. s. ; now make a large ring of 7 d. s., 1 long p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p„ 2 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s.; join to the p. of the 1st ring made; 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., draw up; now make another ring of 6 d. s., join to last p. in ring just made, 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up. Now make a large ring drawn out long instead of round, thus: 6 d. s., join to last p. of ring just made, 4 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 5 p., each separated by 3 d. s., 4 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., draw up. Now make another ring like the one before the last, joining it at the side, and then a large ring of 6 d. s.; join to last ring; 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., draw up; turn the work and use 2 threads again, and make a ch. of 12 d. s., then 5 p. each separated by 3 d. s., then 9 d. s. ; turn the work, and with 2 threads make 6 d. s. Join to 2nd p. from last join- ing, and so as to leave 4 p. underneath the ch. (see picture); make 5 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. draw up; now make a larger ring and draw it out long instead of round; 4 d. s., join to last ring, 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; now make another ring thus: 4 d. s., join to last ring; 5 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., draw up; now make a ch. like the 1st one made, only in making the ring after the 11 d. s. No. 45. — Tatted Edging. made with 2 threads, join the ring, after making 4 d. s., to the 1 st p. in the opposite ch.; then com- plete the ch. and repeat all the directions for the remainder of the work. TATTING AND NETTING. 21 Tatted Insertion No. 46. — * Begin with one thread and make a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. S. and close. Join 2nd thread and make 4 d. 5., then, using 1 thread, make a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. and close. Using both threads make 4 d. s.,and repeat from* for length • desired, except that you join the rings together by r the side p. For the other side make * a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. and close. Join 2nd thread and make 4 d. s., join to middle p. of the ring made; with 2nd thread make 4 d. s. and repeat from * for length desired, except that the rings are joined together by side p. Tatted Edging. No. 47. — This edging is made with two threads. First with the shuttle thread make a ring of 2 d. s.,then 9 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 1 d. s.,and close. Pass the thread back of the work and tie it in the 4th p.; then draw it through the same p. and tie again, leaving a loop about ^2 inch long; to obtain this loop draw it out and hold it between the first and second fingers while passing the shuttle through the other loop, so that it will not slip; now take the second thread and with the two threads make a chain of 8 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., S d. s. (this should be, when made, the same length as the loop); now tie the chain in the end of the loop, and make another ring like the first one close to the chain; then carry both threads along the back of the ring at the top and catch in the 4th p., but in drawing them down for tying, leave another loop the same length as the first one made, but in this instance draw with the shuttle thread and hold the other loop tightly between the first and second fingers; this is done after the 2 No. 46. — Tatted Insertion. end with a ring, then break the thread and tie. Now, for the scollop, also use two threads, but begin with the shuttle and make 7 d. s., tie in the 5th p. from the chain at the bottom in the last ring made, with the wrong side of the work held toward No. 47.— Tatted Edging. threads are drawn up, as usual, through the p., and the shuttle passed through them; now make another chain, being careful to hold the loop beneath the thumb and finger so it will not slip, and repeat rings and chains until you have the desired length; No. 48. — Pointed Tatted Edging. you, 7 d. s., and close; * turn the work, take the second thread and with the two make a chain of 4 d. s., then 3 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 4 d. s., turn the work, make another ring like the last and tie in the next p., and repeat 3 times more from *; this will make 5 rings and 4 chains and complete the scollop. Now leave about % inch of thread and make the next scollop in the same way, tying the first ring in the first p. (see picture); and when you make the first chain in the second scollop leave the same length of thread as from the shuttle. Repeat for all the scollops. Pointed Tatted Edging. No. 48. — Make a strip of heading as long as the trimming is desired, thus: First, make a ring of 6 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. ; draw up the ring, turn the work, and close it to make another ring like the 1st; now take the 2nd thread and with the 2 make a ch. of 8 d. s., and repeat from the beginning; but in making the next ring join it to the side p. of the 1st one after making the 6 d. s., and join each of the re- maining rings in the same way. Now to begin the points, take the 2 threads and tie in the bottom or middle p. of the 1st ring; then make a ch. of 7 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., and tie to the p. of next ring, and repeat this across the work. Now tie the threads in the middle p. of the 1st ch., and make another row like the last one. Tie again in the middle p. of first ch., make a ch. like the one first made, tie in the middle p. of next ch., and repeat 3 times more; then below this make 3 chs., then 2 chs., and then 1; this completes 1 point. Make the remaining points in the same way. (See picture.) For the chains above the heading, make the same as the 1st row of chains. In making the picots draw them out long, as much of the beauty in tatting is due to the length of the picots. 22 TATTING AND NETTING. Narrow Tatted Edging. d. No. 49. — This edge may be made with thread ranging in numbers from 30 to 60. Begin with center ring by making 3 d. s., and 1 p. until you have 45 d. stitches. * Make 2 d. s., join to 1st ring, make 2 d. s.; close up stitches. * s-, 1 p., 3 s. ; close up p. of center Repeat from rjjf 1% \--? ^t**g *&% - ,—r a1* &■ vV tj- -^3 r^O^St^fe^ 1p %v| «s°. J No. 49. — Narrow Tatted Edging. * to * for next 4 p. of the center ring ; then make 2 d. s. and 1 p. until you have 30 d. s.; close up stitches. Make 2 d. s., join to 6th p. of center ring, 2 d. s., close up stitches, 2 d. s., join to last p. of leaf, 2 d. s., and r p. until you have 36 d. s.; close up stitches; 2 d. s., join to p. of center ring; 2 d. s., close up stitches; 2 d. s., join to 1st p. of 2nd leaf, 2 d. s., and 1 p. until you have 30 d. s., close up stitches; * 2 d. s., join to next p. of center ring; 2 d. s., close up stitches *. Repeat from * to * until all the p. of center ring have been filled. Fasten the end of the spool thread to the shuttle thread, then with shuttle work on spool thread 4 d. s., 1 p., 16 d. s. Then with shuttle thread alone work 2 d. s., 1 p., until you have 15 d. s., join to center p. of last leaf; then 2 d. s., 1 p., until you have 15 more d. s.; close up stitches. With shuttle thread alone make 2 d. s. ; join to last p. of last leaf, 2 d. s., 1 p., until you have 36 d. s.; close up stitches. With shuttle thread alone make 2 d. s., join to , last p. of last leaf, 2 d. s., 1 p. until you have 30 d. s. ; close up stitch- es. With shuttle work on spool thread 4 d. s., 1 p., 16 d. s. This makes 2 points. Re- peat from beginning. After making the num- ber of points required with shuttle thread alone, work 2 d. s., 1 p. center ring ; work 6 d. s., 1 stitches. Work 2 d. s., join to last p. of previous scollop; 6 d. s. ; join to last p. of center ring; 6 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s.; close up stitches; 2 d. s., join to last p. of previous scollop, 6 d. s., join to p. of stitches worked on the spool thread, 6 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., close up stitches ; * 2 d. s., join to last p. of previous scollop; 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., close up stitches *. Repeat from * to * until you have 3 scollops. Then make 2 d. s., join to last p. of pre- vious scollop; 6 d. s., join to p. of stitches made on spool thread, 6 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., close up stitches. This finishes 2 points. Finish the other points in the same way. After the points are all finished baste them on a piece of stiff paper and fill in the spaces below the clover leaves with cob-web stitch. Tatted Edging. No. 50. — This edging is shown made of thread, al- though it is very pretty made of silk. The edging is made with 2 threads. Use the shuttle first and make a ring of 2 d. s , then 8 p. each sep- arated by 2 d. s., and draw up; this makes the center of the clover leaf. Next with the 2 threads make a ch. of 2 d. s., then 8 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s., join to 3rd p. in center ring; make another ch. like the last, skip 2 p., join to the next one, then another ch. and join where the 1st ch. started from; then make another ch., turn the work and make a ring thus: 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., join to 3rd p. in the ch. around the center ring, 2 d. s., then 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s. ; then 2 d. s. and close. Nov/ with the 2 threads make another ch. and repeat from the beginning, joining the next ch. in the clover leaf to the 3rd p. of the ring between the upper chs. where the 3rd p. in the chain would come. Tatted Insertion. No. 51. — Two threads are required. With 1 thread make 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; with both threads make 5 d. s. (as close to 1 st loop as possible), 1 p., 5 d. s.; with r thread make 4 d. s. and join to 3rd p. of 1st loop, No. 50. — Tatted Edging. No. 51. — Tatted Insertion. 6 d. s., s., 1 p., join to 2 d. s. ; 1 st p. of close up 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; with both threads make 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s.; then with 1 thread make another loop like first 2 and so on for the first half of insertion. For the other half make a loop with 1 thread like those of the first half, then with both threads make 5 d. s. and join in the p. of the half loop on the opposite side, 5 d. s. Continue as in the first half. TATTING AND NETTING. 23 Tatted Edging. No. 52. — This is a strong, durable edging for underclothing, and may be worked with fine or coarse thread, as preferred The edging is worked with one thread only Work a small ring of 2 d. s., 1 picot, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., draw the stitches up, and turn the ring downward. Work a large ring of 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 10 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 3 d. s. ; * turn the work down again, and work 2 d. s., join to last p. of the 1st small ring, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. ; turn again, make 3 d. s., join to last p. of the large ring, 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., draw together and turn the work again ; 2 d. s., join to last p. of small ring, 4 d. s., 1 p.. 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. ; turn the work, make 3 d. s., join to last p. of small ring joining the large one ; 2 d. s., 10 picots, each separated by 2 d. s., then 3 d. s., and draw up; repeat from * until it is of the desired length, leaving a space of about an eighth of an inch of thread between the rings. For the Heading. — Crochet 2 rh. and 1 s. c, alter- nately in the picots along the top of the edging. Clover-Leaf Lace. No. 53. — This lace is made with 2 threads. Begin with 1 thread and make a ring of 5 d. s., 7 p., each separated by 3 d. s., 5 d. s., and close; then close to the last ring make another ring, but after the 5 d. s., join to the opposite p. of ring just made; then make another ring just like the last. Now take the 2nd thread and make a ch. of 8 d. s., 9 p. each sep- arated by 3 d. s., then 8 d. s., and repeat from be- ginning. Crochet a ch. of n stitches caught in the tie to 1 st p. in center ring, * make another ring like the last, tie to next p. in center ring, and re- peat 6 times more from *, or until there are 8 rings, leaving 4 p. free in center ring. Now tie the thread in the p. of the ring last made, and turn the work; then make a ring thus: 4 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., then 4 p., each separated by 3 d. s. ; then 4 d. s., and draw up; tie in the p. of next ring; * then No. 52. — Tatted Edging. middle p. of each ch. with a half-double crochet across the top. Tatted Edging. No. 54. — For each scollop, first make a large ring thus: Make 3 d. s., then 12 p., each separated by 3 d. s., and draw up. Turn the work and make a small ring of 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., and close; now No. 54— Tatted Edging. make another ring like the last, only instead of making the 1st p., join it to the last p. made in last ring; tie in p. of next ring, and repeat 5 times more from *; turn the work and tie in the 3rd p. of the last ring made. Now make a group of 3 tiny rings, making each ring with 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., and draw up; make these rings close together, then tie again in the same p.; now tie in the middle p. of next ring, and repeat from the beginning until there are 7 groups around the scollop. For the Heading. — Make a ring thus: Make 2 d. s., then 10 p. each separated by 2 d. s., and close the ring. Carry the thread along at the back of the work and tie in the 5th p. of ring just made. * Make another ring like the last one and tie it again in the same 5th p., then repeat from * until the heading is the re- quired length. Now use the edge of the heading having 4 p. for the bottom, and join to the scollop thus: Tie the side p. of the tiny ring to the last p. of the 1st ring (in heading) and 1st p. in 2nd ring, then tie the 2 middle p. of center ring to the last p. of 3rd ring and the 1 st p. of 4th ring, skip 1 ring and tie the side p. of tiny ring to the 5th and 6th rings, the same as at the beginning, and tie all the scollops to the heading in the same way. Join the scollops by the center p. of each middle ring in each upper group, and be particular to make all the tyings come on the wrong side. This scollop is very pretty when made of silk. No. 53. — Clover-Leaf Lace. 24 TATTING AND NETTING. Cable Insertion. No. 55. — This insertion is made with a shuttle and spool — or with two shuttles. For Small Ring. — Make 6 double stitches, 1 p., 6 double stitches, draw up. For Cable. — Make 2 double stitches, ! p., and so on until there are 7 p. Make one ring, 1 cable, 2 rings, and join center of first ring to p. in first one made; 1 ring, 1 cable, and so on until the desired length is reached. At the end, make 1 cable in place of second ring; join center of next ring to group; 1 cable, join center of next ring to group. Proceed in the same way to the end of the row, then make 1 cable for end. Third row. — Same as first, joining the cables by their center picots. Pointed Tatted Edging. No. 56. — This edging is worked alternately with one and two threads. Begin with one thread only, and work a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., and draw the stitches together; * turn the ring down- ward and with two threads work a scollop of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., turn the work up again and with one thread make another ring like the first, but instead No. 57- No. 55. — Cable Insertion. and 3 scollops; cut off thread as before, and so continue decreasing until you have 2 rings and 1 scollop at the point. Work all the points in the same way. Tatted Edging. Begin by making a ring of 6 d. s., 3 p., each separated by 6 d. s., then 6 d. s. and close. * Leave a quarter of an inch of thread, then make an- other ring like the last, but join it to the side p. of last ring after making the 1st 6 d. s. ; repeat twice more from *; then make the bottom ring thus: Close to the last ring, make 6 d. s., join to side p. of last ring, 4 d. s., then 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s., 4 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. and close. Work rings like the first 4 for the other side, but between each tie to the thread between the rings (see pic- ture); leave three-fourths of an inch of thread and begin the next scollop, make the same as the 1st one, but join to the last at the middle p. (see picture). For the Heading. — -Catch in the 1st p. on top ; crochet * 3 ch., then in the deep space make treble crochets thus : th. o. twice, pick up a loop under the 1st tying, th. o., work off 2 stitches, then 2 more, then 1 d. c. through the lower part of treble, but No. 56. — Pointed Tatted Edging. No. 57. — Tatted Edging. of forming 1st p., join to last p. of previous ring; repeat from * for the length desired. To form the points, work rings and scollops in the same way, working for the second row 5 rings and 4 scollops and joining the rings to the strip already worked; tie the thread securely and cut off closely on the wrong side so that the fastening will not show. Then on these 4 scollops work 4 rings only work off half of it ; then make another d. c. in the same place and work off, working through the last 3 stitches at once, 3 ch., 1 s. c. in next p. and repeat from *. Next row. — D. c. with 2 third stitch. (See picture). Next row. — D. c. with 2 space. ch. between in every ch. between in every TATTING AND NETTING. 25 Narrow Tatted Edging. No. 58. — This edging consists of 1 row of wheels made like those in the edging shown at No. 13 on page 8, and a fancy heading joins the wheels as shown in the picture. For the Heading. Make kirge and small rings d. s., 7 p., with 2 d. s. between, 3 d. s., join to p. of braid, 3 d. s., 7 p., with 2 d. s. between, 3 d. s., join to p. of braid, 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., join to p. of braid, 4 d. s., join to p. of braid, 4 d. s., join to next p. of braid, 7 d. s., join to last p. made, repeat from last *. For Upper Edge. — Rings made of groups of 5 No. OS. — Xakkow Tatted Edging. Xo. 59. — Edging of Braid and Tatting. thus: Make a tiny ring of 2 d. s. and 3 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s. and close ; turn the work and make a large ring of 2 d. s., 1 half-stitch, then 7 p., each separated by 2 d. s. and 1 half-stitch ; then 2 d. s. and 1 half-stitch and close ; * turn, and make another tiny ring, and join it to the side p. of 1 st tiny ring ; turn again, make another one like the last, but join it to the 1st p. of large ring; then turn again and make another like the last, but join it to the side p. of the second tiny ring made ; turn again and make a large ring and join it to the side p. of the opposite tiny ring; turn, make another tiny ring, joining it to opposite p. of tiny ring ; turn, and make another large ring and join it to last large ring ; then repeat from * for the remainder of the heading. Join the heading to the wheels by the middle p. of each large wheel, as shown in the picture. Edging of Braid a\d Tatting. No. 59. — In working this edging use fancy lace braid. Begin with the trefoil ; make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., fasten to middle p. of braid, 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., draw. Second ring. — * 7 d. s.. fasten to last p. of 1st ring, 7 d. s., fasten to middle p. of braid, omitting 1 figure, 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., draw; repeat from *. This completes the trefoil. Outer Scollop. — (VVorked with double thread and joined through the middle p. of each figure of the braid.) To form the scollop: Begin with p. of middle figure, 3 d. s., join to p. of next figure of braid, 7 d. s., 1 p., * 7 d. s., join to p. of braid, 3 No. 60.— Wheel-Edging in Tatting. d. s. and connected by 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s. worked with double thread. Wheel-Edging in Tatting. No. 60. — The wheels of this edging are made separately with one thread. Begin at the middle by making a ring of 1 d. s., 12 p., each separated by 2 d. s. ; then 1 d. s. ; fasten the thread and cut it off. Now work a smaller ring as follows: * 6 d. s.; join to a p. of the middle ring, 6 d. s. ; turn the work, and after a fifth of an inch interval work a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p. about a fifth of an inch long; then 5 times alternately, 2 d. s., 1 p. an eighth of an inch long; then 2 d. s., 1 p. a fifth of an inch long, 4 d. s., turn the work, and after a fifth of an inch interval, repeat from *, but in working the larger ring, join to the last p. of the preced- ing larger ring instead of forming the 1st p. For the Heading. — 2 threads are needed Fasten the ends of the thread together, and with 1 thread make a ring of * 4 d. s., 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 4 d. s., and close in a ring; turn it over so that the p. will be downward, and with both threads s., 1 p., 5 d. s. ; turn the work back and repeat from last * joining the p. of 1st and 2nd half-circle to middle p. of 2 upper rings of the wheel; then 2 half-circles without joining; join next 2 and so continue across the work. For insertion add the edge to both sides of the wheels. make a half-circle of 5 d. 26 TATTING AND NETTING. Tatted Rosette-Edging. No. 61. — Begin by making the inner circle of rings thus: Make i d. s., i long p., * 3 d. s., 1 long No. 61. — Tatted Rosette-Edging. p., and repeat from * until there are 8 long p. in the ring; then 3 d. s. ; draw up and draw the thread through the 1st p. made and tie; * leave a short length of thread (see picture), and make another ring of 1 d. s., 1 long p., 3 d. s. ; join to corresponding p. of last ring; 3 d. s., join to next p., 3 d. s., then 5 long p. each separated by 3 d. s.; then 3 d. s., draw up and tie as be- fore, only draw the thread through the p. and the thread which con- nects the rings at the same time instead of through the p. only. Repeat from * 10 times more, drawing the rings out long instead of round; and after the last ring is made, join to the first, so as to make a circle, making the joining as neatly as possible. Now for the outer circle of rings, which are somewhat larger, make 2 d. s., then 9 very long p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s., draw up and fasten in the middle p. of a ring in the 1st circle. Carry the thread along so the outer circle will lie flatly, and fasten the thread in the middle p. of next ring; make another ring like the last, being particular to make the p. very long; then after drawing up the ring, tie it again in the same p. and proceed with the next one in the same way. Make 12 large rings, then join neatly to the 1st one made; tie the last p. of each ring to the corresponding p. of the next ring, and join the rosettes by p. as seen in the picture. Tatted Insertion. No. 62. — Make a large ring thus: 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., 1 p., s d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up; join 2nd thread and make 5 d. s., then using 2nd thread, make small ring of 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. and draw up; another ring made close to this of 1 d. s., 7 p., each separated by 1 d. s. and draw up; a No. 62. — Tatted Insertion. small ring like 1st, of 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. Then using 2 threads make 5 d. s. ; turn and make a large ring like 1st one. Repeat this for length desired. The other side is made like the first, except that it is joined in middle p. of large ring instead of making 1 p. Tatted Edging. No. 63. — This edging is made of large and small figures which are tied together, and to them is tied the heading. To make the large Figure. — Begin with the shuttle thread and make 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., then 7 p. each separated by 4 d. s., and close; turn the work and with 2 threads make a chain of 6 d. s., then 5 p. each separated by 3 d. s., then 6 d. s., skip 1 p., and tie to the next one, which will be the 6th p. made in the ring; now make an- other chain, but make 7 p. instead of 5, skip 2 p., and tie to the next p., then make another chain like the 1st one; skip 1 p. and tie to the last one, then fasten to the threads. To make the small Figure. — Make 5 d. s., then 3 p., each separated by 5 d. s. then 5 d. s. and close; make 3 more rings close to- gether like the last one, and close the figure by tying to the 1st thread. Make as many large and small fig- ures as the length of the trimming calls for, and tie together, tying the middle p. of the middle ring in the small figure to the 2nd one from the bottom in the side chain of the large figure. To make the Heading. — Make a strip of rings as long as desired, each ring made of 4d. s., 1 p., then 6 p. each separated by 4 d. s., then 4 d. s., and close; carry the thread along the back and tie to the middle p.; make another ring like the last one and tie in the same p.; repeat for all the rings. Tie the strip to the lower figure as shown; then take 2 threads and tie in the middle p. of the No. 63. — Tatted Edging. 1 st ring in the heading, and make a chain of 6 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s.; tie to the mid- dle p. of the next ring, and repeat across the work. TATTING AND NETTING. 27 Ta r iK.i) Edging. 2 threads, thus: 3 d. No. 64. — This edging is made with Begin with the shuttle and make ring s., 1 p., 2 d. s., then 8 p. each separated by 2 d. s. ; 3 d. s., and close. Now take the two threads and make a chain of 2 d. s.. then 8 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s. * * Now with the one thread or shuttle make a large ring thus: Make 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., then 13 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 3 d. s., and close. Now with the 2 threads make a chain of 2 d. s., then 15 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s., but instead of making the 8th p., join to the 3rd p. of the ring. * Next make another ring like the last one, but at the 3rd p., instead of making the p., join to the corresponding p. of the last ring; now make another chain like the last one made, omitting the joining, and repeat 5 times more from *; this gives you 6 chains and 7 large rings. Now for the portion which joins the figure at the top: Take the two threads and make a chain of 2 d. s., 8 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s.; now a small ring like the 1st one made, except that you join it at the 3rd p. to the 7th p. of the last chain around the figure; then make two more chains like the last one, with a ring like the last one between the chains, and join the ring at the 3rd p. to the corresponding p. of the last ring. Repeat from * * for all the work, but in repeating the figures join the 2nd chain at the 8th p. to the corresponding p. at the opposite chain. desired, joining them to each other by the 3rd p. of 2 successive rings. The next row is worked the same, joining the rings to each other and also to the row just worked, Tatted Passementerie. No. 65. — This passementerie is No. 65. — Tatted Passementerie, worked with one thread throughout, and consists of 2 rows of large four-leaved figures joined together in working. To begin a figure, work 4 d. s., 7 rather long p. with 3 d. s. between each, then 4 d. s. ; draw the stitches together and work 3 more similar rings No. 01.— Tatted Edging. close together. Fasten the threads securely and neatly, and cut them off. Work as many of the four-leaved figures as are needed for the length No. 66. — Tatted Zig-Zag Edging. as shown in the illustration. If a wider passemen- terie is desired, still another row of the four-leaved figures may be worked. Tatted Zig-Zag Edging. No. 66. — Make a long strip of rings, each ring made thus: Make 3 d. s., then 8 p. each separated by 3d. s.; draw up, break the thread and tie neatly. Now make another ring like the last, except that you join it to the one just made where the 4th p. would come, and so continue until the strip is long enough. For the wheel make a ring of 7 d. s., then 3 p. each separated by 7 d. s., then 7 d. s. and close; make 5 more rings close together like the last one, but join to the side p. after making the first 7 d. s., and in making the last ring, also join where the 3rd p. would come, to the side p. in first ring; then tie together neatly as seen in the picture. Now take the 2 threads and tie to the middle p. of a ring; then make a ch. of 7 d. s., then 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s. ; 7 d. s., and join to the next ring; repeat in each of the remaining rings and tie neatly. For the Heading. — Make * 3 d. s., then 7 p. each separated by 3 d. s., then 3 d. s. and close; turn the work and make another similar ring close to it; then take the 2 threads and make a ch. of 8 d. s., and repeat from * until there are 7 rings. Now make the ch., then make 4 rings without turning the work, but in making the chs. between each ring, make 1 p. in each ch. after making the 8th d. s., and just before making the next ring, and repeat from 1st * for all the heading. Now, to form the design, lay the strip of rings around the wheels as seen in the picture, leaving 2 of the chs. free, and tying the rings to the other 4 chs. as illustrated. Tie the heading to the scollops so that the space having 4 rings and chains between will come over the wheel which has the beading across its top. 28 TATTING AND NETTING, Tatted Rosette Edging and Insertion. part, and make d. s., 8 p. each i d. s., and draw up. Now, around this ring No. 67. — Begin with the upper each wheel thus: Make a ring of 1 separated by 2 d. s., then Break the thread and tie. make a ring of 3 d. s.,then 5 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 3 d. s., and close; tie this to a p. in the first ring; then make 7 more rings like the last one, except that you join each ring to the last one after making the first 3 d. s., in- stead of making the p., and also tie the last ring to the first one made at their corre- sponding p. Make as many rosettes and wheels as neces- sary for the length of trim- ming desired; then tie them together at the corresponding middle p. of 2 rings in each wheel. Now take the 2 threads and tie to the middle p. of the first of the two upper rings; then make a chain of 3 d. s., 5 p. each sep- arated by 3 d. s., and 3 d. s.; tie in the middle p. of next ring, and repeat across the row; then work in the same way across the lower edge. Now, cro- chet a chain of 10 stitches and catch with a s. c. in the middle p. of each chain across the upper and lower edge. Make the wheels for the lower part the same as for the upper, except that you make one more p. in the rings around the center ring, and make another row of 10 rings like the ones just made, and tie around the lower part of each wheel, leaving 3 rings in each wheel free, and tying in every other p. of the first circle. Now take the 2 threads and make chains like those first made across the upper part of the wheels, (see picture); then crochet a chain like the one in the upper part, ex- No. 67. — Tatted Rosette Edging and Insertion Tatted Edging. No. 68. — This edging is worked with two threads. First, work thus, with one thread only the small ring in the center: 1 d. s., * 1 p., 2d. s. Repeat from* until 8 p. are made; then make 1 d. s., draw the stitches up, fasten the thread neatly and cut it off. Now with two threads, work as follows: * With one thread make a ring of 6 d. s., join to a p. of the small center ring, 6 d. s., draw the stitches up, turn the ring downward, and with both threads make a chain of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. ; turn the work up again, and repeat from * all round. In working the rosettes join them to each other by the p. of the chains as shown in the illustration of the work. After completing the ro- settes, a row of chains is worked all along one edge, and a crocheted heading along the other. For the chains work with both threads thus: * Fasten to the joining p. be- tween 2 rosettes, 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., join to p. of next chain, 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., join to p. of next chain; 6 d. s., 1 p. 6 d. s., and repeat from * entirely across the work. This makes a very pretty trimming for underclothing. For the other edge work with a crochet hook. Join to the p. of first scollop, chain 4, * slip stitch in p. of next scollop, chain 1, 1 d. c. in the joining p. between 2 rosettes, chain 1,1 d. c. in same place, chain 1, 1 d. c. in same place as before, chain 1, slip stitch in p. of next chain, chain 4. Repeat from * all across. Tatted Wheel-Edging. No. 69. — Begin with center as follows: * 1 d. s., No. 68. — Tatted Edging. No. 69. — Tatted Wheel-Edging. cept that you also make 2 long treble crochets be- tween the wheels to make the work as even as possible (see picture). Join the upper and lower portions by a strip of insertion, cambric, or any preferred fabric. 1 p., and repeat from * until you have 10 p., making the p. a little more than an eighth of an inch in length; draw up and fasten. For the next row of loops make 4 d. s., fasten to p. of center, 4 d. s., draw up. Leave a small space of thread, TATTING AND NETTING. 29 turn and make the outside row as follows: i p.; repeat from star until there are 12 p., making the p. a little more than an eighth of an inch in length; draw up, and repeat these two rows all the wav around the center-loop. Fasten each outside loop to preceding one by catching into the nth p. These wheels are very pretty for edging hand- kerchiefs or making col- lars; or, a number of them caught together make a very handsome doily. They are quickly and easily made. The pretty filling-in loop is made as follows: Catch the thread to the 1 st wheel, leave a space, make 7 d. s., and draw up; catch to next rosette, leaving a space of thread between, and soon all around the opening. If preferred, a fine crocheted heading may be used to complete the edging. Tatted Lace. No. 70. — First make a ring of 30 stitches and 12 p., with 2^2 stitches between the p. Then make a double row, as follows: First, make a small ring of 8 stitches and 3 p., with 21/? stitches between the p., joining the middle p. to one on the ring; then make a large ring of 16 stitches and 3 p.; draw up and make another small ring, attaching the first p. to the third of the last small ring, and the second to the next on the ring; then make another large ring, and so on all around the ring. Tie and finish off. After making a number of rosettes, make a row of same kind of work, attaching the small rings to the large ones by p-, observing that two are made in outside row, to one of inside. Otherwise, skip one inside ring in outside row. (Refer to engraving and you will see that this outside row is only at- tached to 8 rings of rosette.) After attaching the eighth, turn your work over and make 2 large rings and 1 small ring without attaching them to anything. Then begin on a new rosette. No. 70. — Tatted Lack. d. s., Continue same details, attaching to top rings of rosettes as you come to them. Tatted Edging. No. 71. — This edging is worked with 2 threads. Work first with 1 thread a ring of 8 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s. ; draw the stitches up, and about three-eighths of an inch beyond this ring work a similar ring, and continue in this way until the strip is as long as desired. Then work with 2 threads as fol- lows : With 1 thread work a ring of 8 d. s.; join to the p. of 1 st ring of the previous round, 8 d. s. * and close. Turn the work, and, close to the 1st ring, work with both threads a chain of 4 d. s., 3 p., each separated by 4 d. s. ; then 4 d. s. ; turn the work, make a ring with 1 thread like the ist, joining to the same p. as before, thus forming a 3-leaved figure ; work another ring with 1 thread, joining to the p. of the 2nd ring of the ist round. Repeat from * all across. On the outer or lower edge work a row of Josephine knots, using the shuttle only ; join the thread to the ist p. of a scollop, make a Josephine knot of 6 half-stitches, * join the thread to the next p., make another Josephine knot, (see page 71) and repeat from* all across. On the upper edge work alternately 1 slip- stitch in each ring where it is closed ; ch. 4 or 5, and in working the ch., catch the connecting threads be- tween each 2 rings. Now work a row of 2 d. c. in each of 2 stitches, * 1 ch., miss 1 stitch, 1 d. c. in each of next 2 stitches, repeat from * all across. Tatted Silk Edging. No. 72. — The edging illustrated is made of silk, but cotton may be used, if preferred. Very fine thread makes beautiful edging in this design. Begin with large loop. Make 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., and repeat until you have 10 p. Finish with Xn. 71. — Tatted Edging. No. 72. — Tatted Silk Edging. For the Heading. — Use two threads. Make one ring with shuttle, of 16 stitches and 3 p. Then tie on your other thread and work onto it 8 stitches and 1 p.; then a second row of 16 stitches, attach- ing to the ist by p., also to the 2 rings on lace. 1 d. s. ;ind draw up. Begin the small loop about an eighth of an inch from the larger one. Make 5 d. s. and catch in ist p. of large loop, 5 d. s. and draw up. Turn the work over and make 2 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 30 TATTING AND NETTING. p., 2 d. s.; draw up. * Turn the work. Make 5 d. s. and catch in 2nd p. of the large loop. Make 5 d. s. and draw up. Turn. Make 2 d. s. and catch in 1st p. of previous loop, 2 d. s. and 1 p., 1 d. s. and 1 p.; continue until you have 5 p.; finish with 2 d. s. and draw up. Turn, as before. Make 5 d. s. and catch in p. of large loop. Repeat from No. 73. — Tatted Edging. star until you have five picot-loops. Then fasten thread to large loop. Commence 2nd scollop about an inch from the 1st, joining the scollop at the top. Tatted Edging. No. 73. — Begin by making * a ring of 3 d. s., 1 p., then 6 p. with 2 d. s. between, 3 d. s. and close. Join 2nd thread and make 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., and repeat from * 3 times more, except that instead of making 2nd p. of ring, join to 2nd p. of preceding ring. Then make a small ring of 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s.; join to 1st p. of last ring, 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s. and close. With 2 threads make 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s.. 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. With 1 thread make a large ring of 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. and join to p. of small ring; 2 d. s., join to p. of large ring, 4 p., each separated by 2 d. s., 3 d. s. and close. Now take 1 thread and make a ring of 3 d. s. and 7 p., each separated by 2 d. s. ; 3 d. s. and close. With 2 threads make 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. Now make a small ring of 3 d. s., join to 2nd p. of large ring (to cor- respond with other side), 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s. and close. With 2 threads make 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. Make a large ring of 3 d. s. and join to 2nd p. of small ring; 2 d. s., join to p. of next ring, 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., and join to middle p. of next ring; 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s. and close. * With 2 threads make 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s.; make a ring of 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. and join to 2nd p. of last ring; 2 d. s. and join to middle p. of ring opposite; 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s. and close. Repeat from * twice more. Now for the chain across the top, make with 2 threads a d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. Repeat from beginning for length desired. Join the chain made with 2 threads to the middle p. of opposite chain. (See illustration). This edging is made of No. 36 thread, and is a very pretty trimming for a baby's dress or skirt. Tatted Beading. No. 74, — As lace beading is so fashionable for decorating all kinds of garments, perhaps there are some who would like to make an original beading for themselves, and we therefore give a design for tatted beading which is much more durable than lace beading, and, when made with fine thread, from Nos. 70 to 90, is equally as pretty. With one thread, make * a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., and close. With two threads make 4 d. s. and repeat from * for half the length desired, then break the threads *. Make (with one thread) a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. ; join to p. of ring, 4 d. s. and close. With two threads make 4 d. s., then, pulling the 2nd thread toward you through the work, make a ring of 4 d. s. and join to side p. of ring, 4 d. s., 1 p,, 4 d. s., and join to p. of next ring; 4 d. s. and close. Repeat from * until all the rings are joined together. This beading is wide enough to run baby ribbon through. If wider ribbon is to be used, increase the chain made with two threads. Tatted Edging. No. 75. — This beautiful edging is worked with 2 threads as follows: * With 1 thread only, make a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p. one-fifth of an inch long, 3 No. 74. — Tatted Beading. d. s., 1 p., shorter than the last one; 2 d. s.; twice alternately, 1 long p., 2 d. s., 1 short p., 3 d. s., 1 long p., 4 d. s., and close the ring. Now close to this, and with both threads, work a scollop of 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. ; then with 1 thread make a ring of 4 d. s. ; join to the last loop of the preceding ring; 2 d. s.; 5 times alternately 1 short p., 2 d. s., then 1 long p., 4 d. s. In connection with this 2nd ring work a scollop with both threads as before, and repeat from * until the strip is of the desired length; but instead of forming the 1st p. of each ring, join to the last p. of the preceding ring. On the strip now completed work scol- lops and 3-leaved fig- ures as follows: * With both threads work a scollop of 5 d. s. ; join to the 2nd long p. in the 1st ring of the strip; 5 d. s. ; close to this scollop work with 1 thread only, a leaf of 5 d. s.; join to the foundation thread at the beginning of the scollop just worked; 2 d. s., 1 short p., 2 d. s., r long p., 2 d. s., 1 short p., 2 d. s., 1 short p., 6 d. s.; close the leaf, and No. 75. — Tatted Edging. TATTING AND NETTING. 81 close to it make a leaf of 6 d. s., i short p.; 4 times alternately make 2 d. s., 1 short p., 6 d. s. ; close the leaf and close to it make a leaf like the 1st one. This completes the 3-leaved figure. Now work with both threads a scollop of 5 d. s., join to the 3rd long p. in the 1st ring; 5 d. s., join to the last p. of the last leaf; now make a scollop of 5 d. s. ; join to the 2nd long p. of the following ring of the strip; 5 d. s., repeat from the last *, but instead of forming the middle long p. of the 1st leaf of each 3-leaved figure, join to the middle p. of the last leaf of each figure. This pattern can be worked with linen, silk or cotton thread, fine or coarse, according to what it is used for. Worked with fine linen thread it forms a pretty trimming for children's aprons. Narrow Edging. No. 76. — This makes a strong and durable edg- ing for trimming underclothing. Work with fine or coarse thread as follows: Make 1 ring of 5 d. s., 7 p. each separated by 3 d. s., 5 d. s. ; after a space of three-eighths of an inch, work a similar ring, but instead of forming the 1st p. of the ring, join to the last p. of the previous ring ; also make the last p. of each ring longer than the others. After working a strip as long as desired in this manner, work a row of rings and chains on the lower edge with 2 threads as follows: * With 1 thread only, make a ring of 6 d. s., join to the middle p. of a ring of the strip just worked, 6 d. s., draw the stitch- es up, turn the work, and with both threads make a chain of 2 d. s., 3 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s. ; turn the work back again, and with 1 thread make a ring of 6 d. s., join to the next p. of the ring before joined to; 2 d. s., join to the next p. of the same ring and the 1st free p. of the next ring; 2 d. s. ; join to the next p., 6 d. s., draw to- gether; turn the work, make a chain as before with both threads; turn the work back again, and repeat from * all across. On the connecting threads of the rings of the 1st round, work a row of single crochets. Tatted Edging. No. 77.— This is a very- pretty edging for under- clothing, and can be worked with fine or coarse Silk may also be used for pattern is worked with 2 threads as follows: Fasten the threads together and with both threads work a scollop of 6 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s. ; close to this scollop work with 1 thread only a ring consisting of 7 d. s.; join to the beginning of the scollop; 7 d. s. ; draw the No. 76.— Narrow Edging. No. 77. — Tatted Edging linen thread or cotton, fancv edgings. The stitches together in a ring. Close to this make another ring of 5 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s. ; draw together and fasten to the 1st ring where it is closed. Close to this, and with both threads, work a scollop of 7 d. s.; then with 1 thread only, work a ring of 4 d. s., join to the last p. of the last ring worked; 2 d. s., 4 more p. each separated by 2 d. s., No. 78. — Tatted Edging 4 d. s. ; after the last p. draw the stitches together and close to this ring make a ring of 4 d. s. ; join to the last p. of the foregoing ring; 2 d. s., 6 p., each separated by 2 d. s., 3 d. s. ; after the last p., close the ring. The latter forms the middle of 1 point; work the remaining rings and scollops in the same manner, but reverse the order of succession. In working the last small ring of the point, form a p. at the middle; fasten the thread to it after com- pleting the last scollop, which is joined to the front scollop. Work the remaining points in connection with the 1st point. Tatted Edging. No. 78. — Begin by making the center 4-leaved figure which is made thus: 9 d. s., 3 p. each separated by 5 d. s., 9 d. s. and close. Make 3 more rings close together like the one just described, then tie neatly and break the thread. Next tie the thread in the center p. of a ring, and make a ring thus : * 5 d. s., then 5 p. each separated by 4 d. s., 5 d. s. and close ; catch in the next p., and repeat 6 times more from *, thus working in all but 1 ring of the center figure. Make as many scollops like the one just made as desired, and tie them together by 2 p. of the upper side ring. (See picture.) Next tie the 2 threads into the center p. of a side ring at the top, and work a ch. of * 4 d. s., then 4 p. each separated by 4 d. s., then 4 d. s., tie in the middle p. of next ring, and repeat 4 times more from *, then make 6 d. s,, catch in the corresponding p. of the next scollop, and repeat for all the scollops. For the Heading. — Tie the thread in the top p. of the last ch., and crochet * 5 ch., 1 d. c. in the p. where the 1st ring joins the center 4-leaved figure, but only work off 2 stitches, make 1 more d. c. in the same place, work off 2 stitches, then through all, 5 ch., 1 s. c. in the middle p. of center figure, 5 ch., another 2 d. c, worked like the last 2, in the corresponding p, to 1st one, 5 ch., another 2 d. c. in the p. where the scollops join, and repeat from * for the rest of the strip. 32 TATTING AND NETTING. Next row. — D. c. with 2 ch. between in the middle of the 5-ch., and also in the top of the s, c. and in the middle of the 2 d. c, (see picture). No. 79. — Tatted Edging. Next row. — Make d. c. every space. with 2 ch. between in Tatted Edging. a ring of 40 d. s. separated by No. 79. — Use 2 threads. Make s. separated by 3 p., draw up; 8 d. 3 p., join to 1 st p. in center ring; make another 8 d. s., join to 2nd p. in cen- ter ring. Make a ring of 12 d. s. separated by 5 p., draw up; make 8 d. s. sep- arated by 3 p. and join to 1st p. in center. Repeat this until you have joined a similar ch. of 8 d. s. to each center p.; close. Make 8 d. s. separated by 3 p. to last p. in large center ring; make 8 d. s. separated by 3 p. and close at base of center ring. This completes the figure, which is joined to the next by a ch. of 22 d. s. separated by 9 p. Narrow Tatted Edging. No. 80. — This pretty edging is suitable for trim- ming underclothing and edging ruffling. It is worked with one and two threads. Work with one thread only, a ring of 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 10 d. s. ; turn the ring and * work with both threads 8 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s. ; join to the last p. made of the ring; turn the work, and with one thread only make one ring as before; again join to the last p. made in the preceding ring, and repeat from *. Crochet along the upper edge of the edging, 1 slip stitch in the free p. of the 1st ring, 4 chains; re- peat all across. Clover-Leaf Insertion. No. 81. — With both threads make 7 d. s. ; with one thread make 6 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p.. 4 d. s., draw up; then as close as possible make 4 d. s. and join in the 3rd p. of 1st loop, 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; still using one thread make 4 d. s. No. 80. — Narrow Tatted Edging, and join in last p. of 2nd loop, 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., draw up; with both threads make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s. ; with one thread make 6 d. s. and join to the last p. of the 3rd loop in clover-leaf, 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; con- tinue as in first clover-leaf. With both threads make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s.; with one thread, another clover-leaf, and so on for first half. For second half, make with both threads 7 d. s. ; then a clover- leaf as in first half; with both threads make 7 d. s. and join to p. of half loop opposite, 7 d. s., and continue as in first half. This edging is very hand- some when made of silk. Tatted Edging. (For Illustration eee Page 33.) No. 82. — Two kinds of tatting are employed in this edging — that made with one thread and that with two. First make \\ d. s., * i p. Repeat from * until you have 8 p. separated by 2 d. s.; then draw up. Do not break the thread, but fasten it to the p. at the right. This makes the center ring. Then with the same thread make a ring (close to the first one) as follows: 4J d. s., 1 p., 4^ d. s., 1 p., 4^ d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up. Fasten the thread to next p. in center-ring. Then make another ring with * 4^ d. s., fasten to last p. in 1st small ring, then 4I d. s., 1 p., 4% d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up. Fas- ten thread to next p. in cen- ter ring. Repeat from * until you come to last p. in last ring, fasten it to 1st p. in the 1st small ring, then 4 d. s., draw up. When you make the next wheel, instead of making the center p. in 2 of the small rings, join them to 2 p. in the wheel just made, as seen in the engraving. To make the Border. — Use 2 threads. First, with 1 thread, make a ring with * 4^ d. s., 1 p., 4J d. s., 1 p., 4^ d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up. Turn work over and use 2 threads. In making the 1st single stitch, put the shuttle up (or toward you) through the No. 81. — Clovek-Leaf Insertion. thread, then down; turn work over, and there will be 1 double stitch on the side opposite the one that you are working on. Continue thus until there are TATTING AND NETTING. 33 4k d. s. Now take the row of wheels wrong side up, place the extr.i (or spool) thread over the ist p. on side of the wheel, draw it down through, and place the shuttle thread down through the loop thus made. Then make 4 d. s. like the first 4 d. s. Turn work over, and with 1 thread make 4^ d. s., join to last p. of preceding ring; then 4k d. s., 1 p., 4A- d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up. Turn work over and with 2 threads make 4A- d. s., join to next p. in the wheel, 4 d. s. Turn work over, and with 1 thread make a ring like the preceding one. Turn work over, and with 2 threads make SA- d. s., join in p. that joins the 2 wheels together; then 8 d. s. Repeat from *. An insertion may be made to match the edging, by putting the narrow border on both sides of the row of wheels. Tatted Insertion with Two Threads. No. 83. — Begin at the upper right hand corner with 1 thread and make a ring thus: 2 d. s., 1 p., * 1 d. s., 1 p. and repeat 5 times more from * ending with 2 d. s. ; draw up the ring, join the other thread, turn the work and with 2 threads make a ch. ot 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s.; turn the wcrk and with the first thread make a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., i p., 4 d. s.; close the ring, turn the work and with the 2 threads make another ch. like the last one. Now make 2 more rings like the last one with a 2-thread ch. between, and join each ring to the last p. of the preceding ring after making the ist 4 d. s., instead of making the ist p. Now with the 2 threads make a ch. of * 2 d. s., 1 p. and repeat 4 times more from * ending with 2 d. s. Now with 1 thread make a large ring of * 2 d. s., 1 p., and repeat 11 to the middle p. of the opposite one and also of the large ring after the 2nd 4 d. s. have been made. Make 2 more chs. and 2 more rings like those J O/ir, \v-> No. 84. — Tatted Edging. opposite, joining the rings as they are made, to the side and middle p. of the opposite and preceding ring; then make a ch. and ring like the first ones made, and re- peat from beginning for all the work, joining the chs. of the next scollop at their middle p. as shown in the picture. Make a strip like this as long as de- sired; then make a similar one and join it to the first as made, according to the picture. Tatted Edging. No. 83.- Tatted Insertion, with Two Threads. No. 82. —Tatted Edging. (For Description eee Page 32.) times more from last *; draw up the ring, turn the work and make another ch. like the last one. Now make another small ring like those opposite, joining 3 No. 84. — To make the upper section of Double Rings. — With one thread make 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 3d. s. and close the ring; turn, make another ring like the last; turn and make another ring also like the last two, except that you join it to the side- picot of the ist ring after making the ist 4 d. s., and this takes the place of the ist p.; turn, make another ring, joining it to the second ring made, and work in this way until the strip is as long as desired. For the row of Points below. — First make a ring thus: 1 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 3d. s.; draw up, using the side having 4 p. for the bottom or lower part; make a ring close to the last one of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. ; draw up and fasten the thread to the ist p.; make another ring like the last, joining it after the ist 4 d. s. to the side-picot of the ist ring instead of making the ist p.; fasten to the next p. Now make a large ring of 5 d. s.,Join to side-picot of last ring, 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s. ; draw up and fasten to the next p. of the foun- 34 TATTING AND NETTING. dation ring. Then make two more rings like the ist 2, joining them at the side, and also fastening to the ist ring made. Make as many of these figures as necessary, allowing i to every 4 rings on the upper row, and tying them to the upper row by p., as seen in the picture. For the Lower Part. — For a rosette, make a large *l48e S^tf <""-<^v r -»L- c> ■v '■> *' v - *■"« <>■■ \*#*r '-■•^y^f- No. 85. — Tatted Edging. ring of 8 p., each separated by 3 d. s. ; draw up and break the thread. Now make a large p. drawn out long thus: 4 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up. A short distance from this make a ring of 4 d. s., join to side-picot, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; now 4 d. s., join to side- picot of last ring, 11 d. s.,i p, 4 d. s., draw up. Now 3 rings each made thus: 4 d. s., join to side- picot, 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; then another like the 3rd one made; then 1 like the 2nd; tie to the first ring made and fasten neatly to the center ring, as seen in the picture. Now use the ist large ring made for the top of the ro- sette, and join it by its p. to the p. be- tween the points in the 2nd section (see picture); then join the next 2 rings to the next 2 rings in the point, as shown in the engraving. For the Top Heading. — Take 2 threads and join to a p. in the top row; then make 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., join to p. in the ring under- neath, 3 d. s., 1 p., and repeat in this order across the row. Finish the heading by crocheting chains of 5 stitches joined to p. Tatted Edging. No. 85. — The edging which is illustrated at No. 85, is made in the same way as the rosettes in the square seen on page 64, where directions for the rosettes are given, and at the top the chains and rings are worked thus: * Make a ring and join to middle p. of chain (see picture), then a chain like the one described, and join to a p. of the chain underneath (see picture); then another chain, 1 ringjoin at the second p. to the middle p. of next ring, 1 chain, another ring joined at the second p. to the corresponding p. of last ring, and at the 4th p. to the middle p. in chain of next rosette, and repeat from * across the trimming. If preferred, a crocheted heading may be made at the top of this edging in place of the one described and shown in the picture. Tatted Edging of Silk. No. 86. — Begin by mak- ing all the large loops need- ed in the desired length of lace, and pin them to- gether to avoid their becom- ing tangled. Each is made as follows: 10 p. with 2 d. s. between each; draw up and fasten; then carry the thread across the back of the loop and fasten into the 6th p. A half inch from the ist loop make the 2nd loop, and so con- tinue. The loops are pulled long instead of round, and the lace is worked across the lower side, leav- ing the upper 4 p. to be attached to the article to be trimmed, which is done by lace stitches. The lace stitches also cover the long thread between the large loops. To the first large loop fasten 2 threads. With the shuttle thread make the ist small loop as follows: * 5 d. s., join to ist p. of large loop, 5 d. s., draw up, No. 86. — Tatted Edging or Silk. fasten with 2nd thread. Then with the 2 threads make 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., a p., 3 d. s. Then with the shuttle thread make a 2nd small loop. The pattern repeats from * 3 times more for 1 scollop. The scollops are joined by 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s. The next small loop is joined to the ist p. of the next large loop. TATTING AND NETTING. 35 Loop and Leaf Border. No. 87. — Use crochet cotton, No. 12, or No. 8, according as you desire the border to be fine or coarse. Make a loop with the shuttle thread, work 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., and draw up; then reverse the work and with a second thread, work 3 d. s., 1 p., 9 d. s. ; reverse, make a loop with the shuttle thread, do 7 il. s., join to the p. of the small oval just done, 3 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; make another loop, do 4 (1. s., join to the p. in last oval, 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 [>., 4 d. s., draw up; * make another loop, do 4 d. s., join to the p. in last oval, 8 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; make a loop again, do 4 d. s., join to the ]). in last oval, 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; again make a loop, do 4 d. s., join to the p. in last oval, 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; these five ovals forma "leaf;" reverse the work, and with the second thread, work 9 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s. ; reverse, m: ke a loop with the shuttle thread, do 7 d. s., join to the p. in the last oval of the leaf, 7 d. s., draw up; reverse, and with the second thread, work 3 d. s., 1 p., 9 d. s., draw up; reverse, make a loop with the shuttle thread, do 7 d. s., join to the p. in the last oval of last leaf (where join is already made), 3 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; make another loop, do 4 d. s., join to p. in the last oval, 3 d. s., join to p. in the last but one oval of last leaf, 3 d. s., 1 p., 4 d., s., and draw up; and continue from * for the length you desire the border to be. For the Crocheted Heading. — 1 double crochet in the p. to the right of the top oval, 3 chain, 1 double crochet in the next p., 4 chain, and so on. The heading may be made as deep as desired by additional rows of crochet. Design for Tatted Garter. No. 88. — This garter may be of knitting silk in any color desired, and is made with 2 threads. Begin by making * a ring of 5 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 6 p. with 3 d. s. between each one, 5 d. s., close. With 2 threads make a ch. of 12 d. s., 1 p., 12 d. s., repeat from * until, by laying the rings of one side No. 87. — Loop and Leap Border. close together, you have half enough, then break the thread. Make a ring of 5 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 4 p. with 3 d. s. between each one; join to 2nd p. of 2nd ring made; 3 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., close; * with both threads make a ch. of 12 d. s. and join to p. of ch.; 12 d. s. Then with 1 thread make a ring of 5 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s. and join to 2nd p. of 1st ring on opposite side; 3 d. s., 3 p., with 3 d. s. between each, 3 d. s.; join to 2nd p. of next ring; 3 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., close. Repeat from * until all the rings are joined together, being careful not to twist the work and always bring the 2nd thread toward you when starting to make a ring, so the chs. will all cross the same way. Run silk elastic in and out through the center and finish with a bow of ribbon. Yellow silk for the tatted portion and black or yel- low elastic is a pretty combination for such a garter; or, the tatted portion may be of black crochet silk and the elastic of any pretty contrasting color desired. No. 88 — Design foe Tatted Gaktek. This design could also be used as wide beading or passementerie, or, with the crossing sections made shorter, it could be used as a beading for baby ribbon. Eyelet Insertion. No. 89. — Thread the shuttle with crochet cotton, No. 16, and work with the shuttle thread only. Commence with a loop, work 3 d. s., 1 p. and 1 d. s. alternately six times, 1 p., 3 d. s., draw up; re- verse the work, make a loop, do 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; * reverse, make a loop, work 3 d. s., join to the last p. of the last large oval, 1 d. s., 1 p. and 1 d. s. alternately five times, 1 p., 3 d. s., draw up; reverse, make a loop, do 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up. Always leave a space of }4 of an inch of cotton between the loops, and repeat from * for the length required. To turn the corner, work 6 of the large ovals successively; and when tatting along the opposite side join the eyelets together by the center picots of the rings, as shown in the illustration. Ko. 89.— Eyelet Insertion. A length of colored ribbon run in and out through the eyelets gives a pretty finish to the insertion. 36 TATTING AND NETTING, ARTICLES OF USE AND O^NAAENT. Tatted Plastron. No. i. — The plastron illustrated may be made of either silk or cotton. It is here shown made of the latter. The plastron is composed of 91 wheels, No. 1. — Tatted Plastron. which are made separately and then tied together. Each wheel is made thus: Make a ring of 4 d. s., then 8 p. each separated by 4 d. s., then close. Now make a smaller ring a short distance from the other, without breaking the thread, of 4 d. s., 1 p., then 8 more p. each separ- ated by 2 d. s., then 4 d. s., and close. Tie to the first p. formed in the ring first made; then make another ring like the last one, except that you join it to the side p. of the last ring made, after making the first 4 d. s. ; then make 8 p. instead of 9, tie in the next p. of the center ring, and make 6 more rings in the same way, joining the last ring to the first small one where the 8th p. would come; and after tying to the center ring, tie the two threads together and cut off as close as possible. In shaping the plastron, begin with one wheel and increase one in each row, having the wheels come between the ones in the preceding row after the second row is tied. Tie the wheels by the cor- responding p. of each (see picture). After the tenth row is tied, tie 4 rings at each side of the center, having the lastoneat each side come beyond the ring in the row underneath, then make 3 rows more, decreasing one ring in each row. Now make 16 rings and tie together once at each side, then tie to the plastron around the neck edge, leaving 5 rings free. If a wider band be desired, two rows of wheels may be used for the neck instead of one, and if the plastron is not large enough, make an- other row of rings before tying on the 4 rings at each side. Design for Tatted Garter. No. 2. — This garter should be worked with knitting silk, in any color preferred, and is made throughout with one thread only. It is com- posed of two rows of three-leaved figures turned opposite one another. They are worked separately, and are joined in working the second row. Work 2 d. s.; then 9 times alternately, 1 p. and 2 d. s.; then 2 d. s.; draw the stitches together and work a larger middle-leaf as follows : 2 d. s., join to last p. of first leaf, 2 d. s., join to next p., 2 d. s., then 13 picots, each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s.; next work another small section like the first ring, joining to the last two picots of the large leaf. Fasten the thread and cut it off. Repeat from the c*t «?&, .^v*. -»'> 35 *S §^\?<&fc3 siap %» •?R«^ $>** No. 2. — Design for Tatted Garter. beginning for the desired length, joining the figures to each other by the middle p. of each small leaf. Work a second row in the same manner, and join each middle leaf of one figure to the corresponding leaf of the first row (see picture). Run silk-elastic in and out through the center, and finish with a clasp and a bow of ribbon. TATTING AND NETTING. 37 Tatted Medallion. No. 3. — This medallion when worked in fine linen thread forms handsome ornaments, to be used on wash dresses or for any other decorative pur- pose. When worked in crochet silk it also forms beautiful passementerie. Work the four-leaved fig- ure in the center first, as follows: With one thread only make 6 d. s., 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 6 d. s., and draw the stitches together; work 3 more similar rings, fasten the thread and cut it off. Around this figure work with one thread only, as follows: 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., join to tlie middle p. of one of the rings of the four-leaved figure, 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., and draw the stitches up; turn the work downward, and work a larger ring of 4 d. s., 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 4 d. s. ; turn the work again and work another small ring, but make the middle p. complete instead of joining to the four-leaved figure. Continue working alter- nately large and small rings all round, but between the 5th and 6th small rings work 2 large rings instead of 1 as between the other rings. This forms the oval. Then, after working 5 more small rings, join the 6th to the middle p. of the 3rd ring of the four-leaved figure; then between the next 5th and 6th small rings, work 2 large rings without turning the work, as at the opposite end. The next round is worked with two threads. Join between 2 of the larger rings, make 2 d. s., 7 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s. ; fasten to the joining-picot of the next 2 rings, and continue all round. The next ring of chains is also worked with 2 threads. Join to the middle p. of a chain, 2 d. s., 7 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s., the daintier the effect. It is made entirely of small rosettes joined to each other in working. To make a Rosette. — Work with 1 thread only, a small ring of 1 d. s., 8 p., each separated by 2 d. s., lew*7**?;***5**?! BCg| [.G^M^'lf^*?^: Kraflsa Xo. 4. — Tatted Handkerchief Border. r go J" ^nrl ft*, . y*V-5 ^'. ■■ < - B« j?t Vs LJr% - * ^r^j 35 c £«p5 - - r-i WE ^gs^ No. 3.— Tatted Medallion. join to the middle p. of the next chain, and con- tinue all round. To use the ovals for passementerie trimming, join them together by the middle p. of 2 consecutive corresponding chains on the oval end. Tatted Handkerchief Border. No. 4. — This pretty border may be worked with fine linen or cotton thread — the finer the thread then 1 d. s.; draw the stitches together. Fasten the thread to 1st p., * and work 4 d. s., 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s. ; then 4 d. s., draw the stitches together and fasten thread to next p. of the middle ring; repeat from * until there are 8 rings, but instead of forming 1st p. of each, join to last p. of previous ring; and when the rosette is completed, instead of forming last p. of the last ring, join to 1st p. of the 1st ring made. Tie the threads securely and cut them off closely. Now work a round of scollops with 2" threads as follows: Join thread to a p. that connects 2 rings, 2 d. s., 7 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s., join to next connecting p., and repeat all round. This com- pletes the rosette. Work as many more as are required to edge one side of the handkerchief, joining them to each other in working the scollops by the middle p. of 2 con- secutive scollops. Now work another row in the same way, joining them together as made, and also to the row already made by 2 consecutive scollops. Work the other sides of the handkerchief in the same way. After the border is all completed, baste it on stiff paper, and with a fine needle and thread fill up the open spaces between the rosettes with small wheels, as in drawn work, or with lace stitches, as preferred. 38 TATTING AND NETTING. Tatted Jabot. No. 5. — This pretty jabot may be worked with fine linen thread, or with silk, as preferred. The 4 rosettes are worked first. Commence with the little five-leaved figure which No. 5. — Tatted Jabot. is worked with 1 thread. Make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., draw the stitches together, and close to the ring just made, work 4 more similar rings; fasten the thread neatly and securely and cut it off. The next round is worked alternately with 1 and with 2 threads. Work first with 1 thread a ring of 4 d. s., 7 p., with 2 d. s. between each, then 4 d. s., and draw the stitches to- gether; * turn the ring downward and with both threads work a small scollop of 7 d. s.; turn the work back again and with 1 thread make a ring as before, but instead of .forming 1 st p., join to last p. of previous ring; turn downward and with both threads work 4 d. s., and join to one of the p. of the small five-leaved figure; 4 d. s.; turn the work back again, and with 1 thread make another ring. Repeat from * all round and join last ring to first one made. Lastly, work the scollops on the outer edge of the rosette. In doing this, * join the thread to the p. which forms the connection between the adjacent rings of the round just worked, and with both threads make a scollop of 2 d. s., 13 p., with 2 d. s. between each ; then 2 d. s. Repeat from * all round. Work 3 more rosettes and join them to each other when working the outer scollops, by 2 successive scollops. This leaves an open space in the center with 1 scollop from each rosette turning toward the center. Fill the open space with a small figure worked as follows: With 1 thread make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s. and draw the stitches together; work 3 more similar rings close to this, fasten thread and cut it off. With 2 threads work a scollop around this; join to a p. of this four-leaved figure and to the middle p. of one of the scollops of a rosette; 2 d. s., 5 p. with 2 d. s. between each, 2 d. s., and join to p. of next leaf, and middle p. of next scollop, and repeat all round. The tabs are worked last and are attached to the lower rosette. There are 4 of the four-leaved figures in each tab worked with 1 thread as described for the center. Rings and scollops are worked all round these four-leaved figures. Take both threads and join to a p. of a four-leaved figure; work 3 d. s., turn it over so that the purled edge is toward you, and * with 1 thread work a ring of 2 d. s., 5 p., with 2 d. s. between each, 2 d. s. and draw the stitches together; turn the work downward, and with both threads work 3 d. s., and join to p. of next leaf of the four-leaved figure; 3 d. s., turn the work back again, and repeat from * all round, joining the rings to each other as they are made. To form the round effect at each end of a tab, work 3 scollops without joining to the figures. Work 2 more tabs, joining them in working to the lower scollops of the rosette as shown in the illustration. Tatted Collar. No. 6. — Use fine cotton and work as follows: Make a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., and close; * leave a short length of thread and make 4 d. s., join to side p. of ring, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., and close. Repeat from * until there are 84 rings; fasten thread around in middle p. of last ring, turn, join 2nd thread and No. 6.— Tatted Collar. make * 7 d. middle p in s., 1 p., 7 of next d. s. ring- skip 1 ring, and fasten Repeat from * until TATTING AND NETTING. 89 there are 42 chs. ; turn and make * 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., and join to p. of ch.; repeat from * until there are 42 chs.; turn and make * 9 d. s., 1 p., 9 d. s. and join to p. of ch.; repeat from * until there are 41 chs., then turn, and make the edge around the top, as follows. With 1 thread make 4 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 6 p., alternately 3 d. s. and 4 d. s., and close; fasten to ch., 4 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., join to 2nd p. of ring, 3 d. s., 5 p., alternately 3 d. s. and 4 d. s., and close. Make a ring at the corner, joining to 1st p. of last ring; skip 2 small rings, fasten to ch., make another large ring fastening it to 1st p. of last large ring; * make another and fasten where 2nd p. should come, to 2nd p. of last ring. Repeat from * until the other end of the collar is reached, and make that like first end described, always skipping 2 small rings and fastening thread in next short ch. For the Wheels at the Bottom. — Make 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s.,and close; turn, and close to this make 4 d. s., 7 p., with 3 d. s. between each one, 4 d. s., and close. * Turn and make 2 d. s., join to p. of small ring, 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., and close; turn and make 4 d. s., join to 1st p. of large ring, 3 d. s., 6 p., with 3 d. s. between each, 4 d. s. and close. Repeat from * until there are 8 large and 8 small rings, join to form a wheel, fasten, and break thread. Three of these wheels are joined to form a point. The engraving shows how they are joined. Tatted Border for Center-Piece for Table. No. 7. — Work the four-leaved figures with one thread, thus: 5 d. s., 5 p., with 2 d. s. between each; 5 d. s., close up and work 3 more similar above. Then with 2 threads work the scollops thus: Join to the middle p. of one of the four-leaved fig- ures; 2 d. s., 11 p., with 2 d. s. between each, 2 d. s., * join to middle p. of next ring of same figure, No. 7.— Tatted Border for Cester-Piece for Table rings. In working the last ring, leave the middle p. twice as long as the others; as the last ring of each four-leaved figure is joined to this p., tie the ends of thread and cut off. Work 3 more of the four-leaved figures, joining them as described No. 8. — Tatted Rosette. and to the middle of opposite ring of next figure; 2 d. s., 11 p., with 2 d. s. between each, 2 d. s., join to middle p. of next ring of same figure. Repeat from * all round. Tie the ends of the thread at the starting point and cut them off. This com- pletes the rosettes. The rosettes are joined to each other in working the scollops, and the open spaces between the ro- settes are filled in with four-leaved figures worked with one thread, as follows: 6 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., join to 4th p. of a scollop, 2 d. s., join the 2nd p. of the connecting scollop, 2 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. ; draw the stitches together and work 3 more rings, join- ing the scollops in the same manner. Tatted Rosette. No. 8. — Make a small ring of 5 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 very long p. (see picture), 3 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up ; leave about an eighth of an inch of thread, then make a large ring thus : 2 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., then 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s. ; 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., draw up ; now make another small ring, joining it after the 1st 5 d. s., to the p. of the opposite small ring, then another large ring, and join that to the 1st p. of the last large ring, after making the 1st 2 d. s. Repeat in this way until there are 20 rings of each ; then join the last ones made to the first ones, to make a circle (see picture), and take a needle and thread and pass through the long p., drawing them up closely, as shown in the engraving. For the Small Square at the Top. — Use two threads. With 1 thread make a ring of 3 d. s., 1 p., 40 TATTING AND NETTING. 3 d. s., then 4 p., each separated by 3 d. s., then 3 d. s. ; draw up. With 2 threads turn the work and make a ch. of 7 d. s., and repeat rings and chs. until there are 4 of each ; then tie the last ch. closely to the 1st ring, and join by a center p. of one of the small rings to a middle instead of forming the 5th p., join to the p. of one of the larger rings in the former round; turn the work and with both threads work a scollop of 2 d. s., 7 p., each separated by 2 d. s.; finally 2 d. s.; turn the work and repeat from *. l/. vi ct, laiiiv Aiiiti »*i l*»v. * uj\.iiv.i WWW1FK Handkerchief Border in ?i3t''MfcTI Tatting. ilrB.'^ijfci'^i ff^Tv3!«v3^ No. 9. — This handsome hand- jg£^Mu^T4i' kerchief border may be made with * BaLi linen or cotton thread in numbers aH :i?i"J ranging from No. 60 to No. 100, lu^^g flT^4i «h ■$f«P&*m as preferred. It is worked alter- ■^^ufc»^J "*Rj ^^AW^i I'JMj- t' / ^BBfc < TVS nately with 1 and 2 threads. Begin i^y ■fHHflwA.'fl VAVJ the border by working the inside row of four-leaved figures, as fol- JV 1 ^-i"™. jiiif lows: With 1 thread work a ring hl2 |^fj| 2v*-w^b?3 of 7 d' s., 1 p., 7 d. s.; close the t»™, JKft MB 4J iBBJB ^^^.*bH stitches in a ring. Close to this make a ring of 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. Pi 1&%^b1 ■U ^y*^2 ^HKaM^HP J pi JH*x ill J Ch ii^tf' >M"I 3'i\< w?lkl HTi XfH uv^V ■Vol ^^^^^PaT B>^!fUBB ^^■■^5 v 3 ^^^i ^nnl HV M) ■ ^B^^^^B BB^^^Bt^ * * ■Bf^i^' ^ m yV]_f !rv jSS BV ^Br --■ Jfc 1 -j^"V^|K^' ^^ mff^Bff^Pif^r^jMBBffv^, . *LDT w PRytJBSr^lB H\V Jl^^HiitfFjk *v^^R.^»j^%^^'C*'^vVm ^hBI tj*»Jfc* •** ^*/jH BB^^f^BI Ewfi M^'fl H^Mi k fl JiXr'& wBRi (jaV?: ™f SnHK rlBl tB 3ki"v»m1 Mskj} Ca* jU BETa -3W Kik^B KAv C wn3^& 4bbBHI a*Fa1 * y »Tv ^. 'jB bh ftcvVJ beBt4M bb9B «m bbbSI m U?I&B^V ^SKffSPfsiS^ ■Saarirffkjtfa»^6fcPt P^tkfl K.^rtPIKtJ5l ^i^flPIVifPSBj Iw^&bw Hl^EiS //VJWi^ tJmfafi 4jjT. JJBk ! li'M^B Bra^^sEE^ B*i5w42^U MS'H^-iii erQ^BW w K*t* jAPft^BF \ tfA ' « A^W*r/j,t.*J^. -^Ttiw^ at Mf^^ 5k, LUTvnviE^r aaa ^Al'^S^bw^^bt ■BR "■BaV'^^BT 4 • \t\BTr_ BV ,*wjF'^iy m^^TaV^P ^MJmtkw IS;*JI 3 ^5P^™ nI ^ESi^Sw8^iKSjy&'^ b™f £\^^ * ^^^^m ■' *■ r^s^'jLsi t^^Sto 'iife!E*iffM5rffli I^^af E"^ Js^BIMJSBI Ti^TLjf'/^t jgH^i 5_j|l>27 rl*tfl ImB Ki4iiai bbbI No. 9. — Haxdkerchief Border in Tatting. s.; next a ring of 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s. ; then a ring of 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. This completes one figure. Fasten the thread and cut it off. Work as many more of these four-leaved figures as are needed to go all round the edge of the handker- chief, joining them to each other by the smaller rings; the corners will be formed in the next round. The next round is worked alternately with 1 and 2 threads. * With 1 thread, work a ring of 3d. s.; 9 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 3 d. s., but To form the corners of the handkerchief, join 2 of the rings by the middle p. to the same p. of the four-leaved figure, and the scollop which separates the corner rings; work with n p. instead of 7 p. as in the other scollops. The next round consists of three-leaved and scollops, and is also worked with 1 figures and 2 threads. Begin with the three-leaved figure, using but 1 thread. Work a ring of * 2 d. s., 7 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s., close the stitches, TATTING AND NETTING. •il and work 2 more similar rings close to this; but in working the 2nd ring join the middle p. of the scollops of the previous row. After working »he 3rd ring, fasten to the 1st ring where closed; turn the work upside down and with both threads work a scollop of 2 d. s., and 7 times, alternately, 1 p., 2 il. s.; turn the work back again and repeat from *. The three-leaved figures, however, must be joined to each other by the middle p. of each outer leaf. In forming the corners, 3 of the three-leaved figures are joined to the corner scollop of previous row, the 1st to 2nd p., the 2nd to 6th p., and 3rd to 10th p., the 2nd figure not being joined to 1st and 3rd; and the 2 corner scollops should each have 9 p. Now follows a round of rosettes. With 1 thread work a ring of 1 d. s., 1 p., * 2 d. s., 1 p.; repeat from * until you have S p., with 2 d. s. between each; 1 d. s.; close up the stitches. Join the thread to the 1st p., and work a ring as follows, leaving a very short space of thread: 4 d. s.. 1 p., * 2 d. s., 1 p.; repeat from * until there are 7 p.; then 4 d. s., close the stitches, join thread to next p. of center ring; 4 d. s., join to last p. of previous ring; 2 d. s., then 6 p. each separated by 2 No. 10. — End or Fichd in Tattino. d. s. ; then 4 d. s., close up the stitches. Repeat until there are 8 rings around the center one, and join last ring to 1st. For the outer scollops around the rosettes, use both threads. Fasten the thread to the middle p. of one of the rings, * 2 d. s., 5 times alternately, 1 p., 2 d. s. ; fasten in middle p. of next ring, and re- peat from * all around. Join the rosettes to the scollops of the previous round, as you work, by the middle p. of each 2 scollops, except the corner rosette, which must be joined between 2 scollops of the previous round. The rosettes must also join No. 11.— Back op Fichu in Tatting. each other by middle p. of 2 corresponding scollops on each. Three rounds of scollops now complete the border, worked as follows, with both threads: * Fasten thread to the middle p. of 1st free upper ring, 2 d. s. ; 5 times alternately, 1 p., 2 d. s. ; join in middle p. of next scollop; 2 d. s., 5 times alternately 1 p., 2 d. s.; join the next 2 scollops, and repeat from * all round. The next 2 rounds are also worked with both threads, 2 d. s. ; 7 times alternately 1 p., 2 d. s., join to the middle p. of each scollop and repeat all round. Fichu in Tatting. Nos. 10 and n. — These two engravings show the middle and one end of a narrow fichu of tatting. The whole fichu is about forty-three inches long and is made of medium-fine thread. To make the Wheels. — Make a center ring for each, composed of 10 d s. and 9 p. For the outer row of rings for each wheel, make each ring as follows: 7 d. s., then 7 p., each separated by 1 double; then 7 d. s., joining the rings at the lowest side p. in the ordinary manner. Join the 12 rings in a circle, and unite to the center ring by two rows of rick-rack stitch, as seen in the engravings. To make the small Four-Leaved Figures. — For each ring: 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., and arrange the rings in the shape represented. 42 TATTING AND NETTING. To make the large Four-Leaved Figures. — For each ring: 7 d. s., 5 p. each separated by 1 double, 7 d. s. and close. Arrange and tie as seen in the engraving. To make the Upper Edge. — Make a row of single rings, each formed as follows: 10 d. s. and 9 p. No. 12.— Postal-Card Case. alternating. Having made all the parts described, join them with a needle and thread by knottings, as seen in the engravings, which show how to turn the point at the back and complete the ends. The single rings between the wheels and four-leaved figures are like those along the upper edges. Postal-Card Case. No. 12. — This dainty case is designed both for use and ornament, and is made of a piece of rib- bon stretched over card-board, to which silk tatting is tacked to form the pocket for holding the cards. To make the Center Ring of Wheel with very long Picots. — Make 1 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., draw up and tie. With 2 threads work * 5 p. with 2 d. s. between, join to p. of center d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up, pass thread through next p.; repeat from * until the circle is complete. For the Large Ring. — * Make 10 d. s.; 1 p., 10 d. s., draw up; pass thread through p. of small ring. Repeat from * for circle. For Outer Row. — Make 4 d. s., 1 p., * 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw; working as close to ring as possible, 4 d. s., fasten to last p. made, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw; working with 2 threads, 4 d. s., join to p. of large ring, 4 d. s. For Third Ring. — 4 d. s., join to last p. made, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., i p., 4 d. s., draw; with 2 threads, 4 d. s., jain to p. of large ring, 4 d. s. For Fourth Ring. — 4 d. s., join to last p.; repeat from * in outer row. Make 4 large wheels; join with quatrefoil of large rings of 10 d. s., 1 p., 10 d. s., with 10 d. s. worked with 2 threads between. Fill in each outer space with a trefoil worked in same manner as the quatrefoil just described. Tatted Square. No. 13. — This square is pretty for decorating necktie ends, scarfs, throws, tidies, etc. Begin the squares from the center, working with one thread only a four-leaved figure as follows: 6 d. s,, 7 p., each separated by 3 d. s., then 6 d. s., and draw the stitches together; close to this work 3 similar sections, then tie the ends of thread securely and cut off. Work 4 more of the four-leaved figures, and join them to the middle figure as shown by the illustration, joining to the 1st and last p. of 2 sections of the middle figure, instead of forming the middle p. of one of the 4 sections in working each figure. Next work with 2 threads the outer row of the square in the following manner: * With 1 thread work 1 section of 6 d. s., 3 p., each separated by 3 No. 13.— Tatted Square. d. s. in one then of ring; repeat from * till you have gone ring; draw the thread through the last around the work * 3 d. s., join to the middle p. of a section the 4 figures worked last; 3 d. s., 3 p., each separated by 3 d. s., then 6 d. s. and draw the stitches together. Close to this make 1 section like TATTING AND NETTING. 43 the preceding, but join to a section of the next figure; turn the work and with both threads work i scollop of 3 d. s., 7 [)., each separated by 3 d. s., then 3 d. s. ; turn the work, and 3 times alternately make 1 leaflet worked with 1 thread, and 1 scollop worked with 2 threads like the preceding one, joining the sections to the four-leaved figures as shown by the illustration. Repeat from * all around, fasten the last scollop between 2 sec- tions, tie the threads and cut off closely. Card or Work Bas- ket in Tatting, with Detail. Nos. 14 and 16. — The framework of this basket may be of wicker or wire. It is covered with rosettes in tatting, which may be worked with colored crochet cotton or knitting silk. The tatting, worked with ecru cotton or silk, and lined with pale-blue silk, would be very pretty; or red cotton, lined with cream, would look we'l. The rosettes are joined together to form the sections, according to the shape and size of the basket, and are divided and edged by lines of closed rings. One of the rosettes is shown at figure No. 14. In working it, begin in the center with a closed ring, made as follows: * 1 d. s., 1 p., repeat from * 9 times more, 1 d. s., close. The p. here is the loop of thread left between two single knots, and following closed rings, draw through the last p. of previous closed ring; repeat from * 9 times more. Fasten off the cotton neatly and securely at the back of the work. To join the rosettes draw the cotton through the top p. of a closed ring of No. 14. No. 16. No. 15 — Rosette or Tatting. the ring is really composed of 10 regular p. made in the usual way as above described. For the outer closed rings draw the cotton through the 1st p., work * 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 4 p., each separated by 2 d. s. ; 4 d. s., close, draw through the 1st p. of closed ring. When working the 1st p. of 2nd and Nos. U and 16. — Card or Work Basket in Tattinq, with Detail. one rosette, when working corresponding p. of next rosette. For the lines of closed rings edging the sections, work 5 d. s., 7 p. each separated by 2 d. s., 5 d. s. ; close. When working the 4th p. on 2nd and following closed rings, draw through the pre- vious ring where it closes. The cotton between the rings must be rather more than half an inch in length. The tatting is sewed to the basket with a needle and fine cotton. The inside of the basket is lined with blue silk, edged with a ruche of rib- bon. Ribbon bows are placed above the handles of the basket. Rosette of Tatting. No. 15. — This rosette may be worked with fine or coarse cotton, as preferred. It is very handsome when worked in silk for decorating dresses, bags, chair-scarfs, etc., etc. Begin with the middle ring and work 1 ' # c* uTi> .>*^-. - - *UKT >-?■ " -\\\-\AA-'-; <_*; r-t> No. 26.— Side of Tatted Baby-Cap. Next round: First ring. — 6 d. s., 1 p., * 6 d. s., join to p. of one of the rings previously made, 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. ; draw. Second ring. — 7 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 5 p. with 1 d. s. between each, 4 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s. ; draw. Third ring. — 5 d. s., join to p. of 1st ring, 3 d. s., 5 p., with 1 d. s. between, 3 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s.; draw. Fourth ring. — 7 d. s., join to last p. of 2nd ring, 4d. s., 5 p., with 1 d. s. between, 4 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., draw. Fifth ring. — 6 d. s., join to last p. of 3rd ring, repeat from last *. For the leaves, begin in the center. First ring.— 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s.; draw. With double thread work 5 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., join to 1st p. of ring, 1 d. s., 4 p. with 4 d. s. between, 1 d. s., join to middle p. of ring, 4 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., join to last p. of ring, 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s. Going back to the single thread, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw and join to 1st p. worked with double thread. Second ring. — 5 d. s., join to last p. of last ring, 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s.; draw and join to 2nd p. of double thread. Third ring. — 6 d. s., join to last p. of 2nd ring, 3 d. s., 3 p. with 2 d. s. between, 3 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., draw and join to 3rd p. of double thread. Fourth ring. — 7 d. s., join to last p. of 3rd ring, 4 d. s., 5 p. with 1 d. s. between, 4 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., draw and join to 4th p. of double thread. Fifth ring. — 8 d. s., join to last p. of 4th ring, 4 d. s., 7 p. with 1 d. s. between, 4 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s.; draw and join to 5th p. of double thread. The 6th ring is like the 4th, the 7th like the 3rd, the 8th like the 2nd and the 9th like the 1st. After last ring draw your thread over the double thread so as to hold it, and with double thread make 3 d. s., join to 1st p. of 1st ring, 3 d. s., join to last p. of last ring, 4 d. s., join to 2nd p. of 1st ring; continue working around the rings with double thread, making 1 p. to every 4 d. s., and joining to the p. of the rings wherever necessary to hold in place. Four of these leaves are required; join together and to the center star, as shown in the illustration. The ovals are made as follows: 3 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s.; draw and p| ■fri?^**^ it iwrtMJJfT ' Jf-T^.^"^ W;$^J?^+*^k£\ LI m V^Sta^Wrt^'^Biw^Ci ?W'S«B • R AaP*i fcte una* v3 .£ ^ Vw ^S!^: WWm Ski S3fi^"ii,?%S«*^#y HtaS9%J£ SSISSS«&(S ■■■"** '&*: pb SShmS ' • •■ KSBmgBSRfiM il^^ /MWdSOT MjiHP f^ ^4kpF' ^Oi 5S >r..<-i y ;. 32Kii>Srr,„. r,»„x»*2; ■PV&JfSVJ'SSlM mam ^^>f TVoyaiM^ J.V -J »/ ^fe^SS^ jt&^jrosfi' M^J ■ i/»^^fc*!l^^S *£ 0" m ^^KW y&&Z& ti: ybQTj^YY V j w agffiSSBS: r-J$)}£-&ffi >^jy% 5 CTVl! & ^R.'KHfsSQ mm^smj: ■ff/Me No. 27. — Center-Piece of Tatted Baby-Cap. TATTING AND NETTING. .-.1 pass thread through the last p.; make 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. S.; draw and tie. With the double thread work an oval consisting of 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., etc., around the 2 rings; tie and cut. Surround this with a row of 14 large and small rings worked as follows: 7 d. s., 1 p.; * 4 d. s., 5 p. with 1 d. s. between, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 5 p. with 1 d. s. between, 4 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s.; draw. First small ring. — Begin as close as possi- ble to the large one: 7 d. s., draw through the thread back of the large ring, 7 d. s., fasten to oval, 7 d. s. ; draw. Second large ring. — 7 d. s., join to last p. of 1 st ring; repeat from *. The larger spaces are filled with quafrefoils and tre foils, and the smaller ones with strands of the double thread. Around the edge is placed a row of lace braid to preserve the out- lin e. Corner of Tatted Handkerchief. No. 28. — This engraving shows the corner of a fine handkerchief with a deep border made of tatting and a tiny center formed of fine linen lawn. A close inspection of the engraving will show how the wheels are made and tied together after the manner illustrated and described in previous pages of this pamphlet. The center ring of each rosette is made of double stitches separated by long p. To these p. the next row of the rosette is attached, and the row is formed of ordinary rings, each made with 3 very long p. In the outer row of rings each is made with 7 long p., and the row is tied to the p. of the 2nd row. The rosettes are tied as seen in the picture and are also joined by four- leaved or- naments tied Side pieces consisting of the center star with two of the leaves, are finished in the same manner as the large piece, as may be seen by referring to the illus- tration. In making a cap of this de- scription finethread, either linen or cotton, as preferred or con- venient to obtain, may be used ; or, white crochet silk may be chosen with a very rich result. Sometimes such a cap is lined with China or Surah silk, either in white, or pale-pink or pale-blue, as preferred by the maker or the mother of the little one who is to wear the cap. For Winter wear the lining could be wadded ; and in any event the lining could be made ad- justable and used or not according to the con- dition of the atmosphere or the requirements of the season or occasion. For Summer wear it proves a very dainty article when worn, unlined, over the glossy locks of the little queen of the household. in as repre- sented. Single p. rings tied to- gether form the heading of the bor- der and cover the join- ing of the centers. Wheels of any description may be used for such a bor- der and may be joined as made, by quite long or moderately long picots. Long picots always produce the most delicate effects, especially at the edge of the work. Among the materials used for the centers of handkerchiefs is India grass linen — a fine sheer material with a silky texture that is very dainty in effect. In linen stores this material may be pur- chased by the yard in two widths, either of which will make from two to four centers, as a center is never over a quarter of a yard square — usually less. At some lace-making establishments squares of the right size are sold separately, and a lady need not, therefore, buy more than she needs. 52 TATTING AND NETTING. Point of Tatting for Ladies' Tie. No. 29. — Work the rosettes as follows : Work a ring of 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., and 1 p., un- til you have up. with 3 d. s. between; close the No. 29. — Point of Tatting for Ladies' Tie. * Leave a short space of thread, to the 1st p., make 3 d. s. and stitches in a ring, make 3 d. s., join close. Leave a short space of thread, make s., 1 p., 2 d. s., and 1 p. until you have n p.; close. Repeat from * until all the p. around the center ring are filled. Baste the rosettes thus formed on paper, and fill in the spaces with spider- web work as seen in the picture. Scolloped Edging. No. 30. — This is a pretty narrow edging worked with No. 10 crochet cotton, and two threads are used. Make a loop with the shuttle thread, work 6 d. s., 1 p., 12 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., draw up; * reverse the work, take the second thread, make a loop, and do 6 d. s., 1 p. 6 d. s.; reverse, make a loop with the shuttle thread, work 6 d. s., join to the thread at the bottom of the large oval, where the second thread is begun, 5 d. s., and draw up; make another loop with the shuttle thread, work 6 d. s., join to the last p. in the last large oval, 12 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., draw up; repeat from * for the length required. Crochet along the top for the heading, 1 d. c, in a p., 4 chain, and repeat. Chantilly Border. No. 31. — This border is useful for many pur- poses, and is made with two threads of crochet cot- ton No. 14 or No. 12. Make a loop with the shuttle thread, and work 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., draw up; * reverse the work, and with the second thread work 3 d. s.; reverse, make a loop with the shuttle thread, do 2 d. s., 1 p., and 2 d. s. alternately ten times, draw up; reverse, resume the second thread, and work 2 d. s., 1 p. and 2 d. s., three times ; reverse, make a- loop with the shuttle thread, do 3 d. s. join to the last but one p. of the large oval, 3 more d. s., and draw up; reverse, resume the second thread, and work 2 d. s., 1 p. and 2 d. s. alternately three times; reverse, make a loop with the shuttle thread, do 3 d. s., join to the next p. of the large oval, 3 more d. s., draw up; reverse, resume the second thread, work 2 d. s., 1 p. and 2 d. s. alternately three times; join to the next p. but one of the large oval ; and still with the second thread, do 3 d. s.; reverse, make a loop with the shuttle thread, work 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., and draw up; repeat from *. For the Heading. — Work 1 d. c. in the first p. of the little round eyelet, 1 ch., 1 d. c. in the next p., 3 ch., 1 d. c. in the center p. of the large oval, 3 ch., and continue. Tie-End in Tatting, with Detail. Nos. 32 and 33. — Use 2 threads and begin at center of small scollop. Make a ring of 2 d. s., 1 p., and so on until you have 12 d. s. Draw up, and the center of side scollop is formed. With 2 threads make 8 d. s. separated by 1 p. ; make a ring of 7 d. s., join to 1st p. in center ring. Repeat this until you have joined a ring to each center p.; ch. 8 d. s. separated by 3 p., and join to center, thus com- No. 30.— Scolloped Edging. No. 31. — Chantii.lt Border. pleting side-scollop. Make a ch. of 12 d. s. separ- ated by 5 p. This brings us to the 4 solid rings in top of center. Make a ring of 12 d. s. separated by 1 p., 12 d. s., draw up; make another ring the TATTING AND NETTING. 53 same. Make a ch. of 20 d. s. separated by 9 p.; then make a ring of 12 d. s. separated by 5 p.; draw up. Ch. 8 d. s. separated by 3 p., and make a ring of 7 d. s., join to 1st p. in center ring; 7 d. s., and draw up. Repeat this until you have joined a ring to each p. in center, separated by a ch. of 8 d. s. separated by 3 p., and close by fastening at base of center ring. Turn the work and return. Ch. 12 d. s. separated by 5 p.; make a ring of 7 d. s., join to second p. of last ch. ; 7 d. s., draw up. Repeat this until you have joined a ring to center p. in each ch. After making last ring, ch. 12 d. s. separated by 5 p. and join at base of center ring. This closes the center scollop; ch. 20 d. s. separated by 9 p. Make a ring of 12 d. s., join to p. in top of opposite solid ring; 12 d. s.; draw up. Make another ring the same, joining to remaining solid ring, and the center of scollop is completed. Ch. 12 d. s. separated by 5 p.; make 12 d. s. separated by 5 p., draw up. This is center of side-scollop. Ch. 8 d. s. separated by 3 p.; make a ring of 7 d s., join to 1st- p. in center-ring; 7 d. s., draw up. Ch. 2 d. s., join to last p. in next to last ch. of center scollop ch.; 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. Make another ring of 7 d. s., joining to 2nd p. in center ring; 7 d. s. and draw up. Ch. as before until you have joined a ring to each center p. and close with a ch. There will now be completed the whole figure or scollop, which is joined to the next by a ch. of 22 d. s. separated by 15 p., which brings us to center of next side-scollop. Tatted Edging. No. 34. — Use two threads and make a ch. thus: 5 d. s., 1 p., * 2 d. s., a p., and repeat 4 times more from *, 2 d. s. ; with 1 thread make a ring of 3 d. ond to close the figure, (see picture.) * * Next use two threads and make a ch. of 4 d. s., 5 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 4 d. s. Now make a ring with one thread of 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., join to 2nd p. in ch. of figure, 2 d. s., then 6 p. each separated No. 32. — Detail of Figure in Tie-End of Tatting. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s. draw up. Next with two threads make a ch. to correspond with the first one made, then a ring like one just described and tie the first two threads to the sec- No. 33.— Tie-End in Tatting. (For Description of Nop. 32 and 33 Bee Pages 52 and 53.) by 2 d. s., 4 d. s. and close. With one thread make a ch. of 4 d. s., 4 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 4 d. s. Next make another figure like the first one but make the tiny ring before making the first ch., then after making the 2nd ch., fasten together, and also join the first ch. to the ring (see picture), then repeat from * *. Round Loop Edging. No. 55- — Use crochet cotton of a medium size. Make a loop with the shuttlethread, work 12 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., and draw up ; reverse the work, take a sec- ond thread, and looping it round the fingers, make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., join to the p. of the round ring; reverse the work, make a loop with the shuttle thread, work 12 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., draw up; reverse, make a loop with the second thread, do 7 d. s. of the round ring, No. 34.— Tatted Edging. No. 35 — Round Loop Edging. , 1 p., 7 d. s., join to the picot and continue. A crochet heading is worked along the top of the edging as follows: 1 d. c. in the p. of the scolloped bar, 3 ch., 1 d. c. in the next p., and repeat. 54 TATTING AND NETTING, Bottom for a Fancy Bag. Nos, 36 and 37. — The tatting here illustrated is made of orange-colored crochet silk, and may be laid over a black silk or satin bag, with a very effective result. Begin at the center of the section, making a circle composed of 9 rings, each ring made as follows: No. 36. Noa. 36 and 37. — Bottom for a Fancy Bao. 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. Draw the ring together and fasten it with a knot. The rings are joined together, as made, by their first side-picots. Having made the 9 rings as directed, tie the ends together to form the circle; also join- ing the side p. by the working thread, by drawing it through them and knotting it. Next make an- other circle of 18 rings as follows: First ring. — 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s. Draw and fasten with a knot. Second ring. — Same as first, joining it to the latter at the first side p. Now, before making the 3rd ring, draw the work- ing thread through the top p. of the ring underneath (in the first circle) the same as you would at the side p. and knot it, leaving a slack of about three- sixteenths of an inch, so that the work will not draw or pucker. Leave the same amount between the knot and the 3rd ring you are now about to make. The engraving shows clearly how the 2nd circle is joined to the 1st. Now make the 3rd and 4th rings the same as the 1 st and 2nd, and then catch the thread to the 1st circle the same as before, and so on around the entire circle, closing the latter and the adjoin- ing p. as before. Now begin the next circle work- ing as follows: Bring the thread up for three-sixteenths of an inch and make a ring the same as the last ones made, except that you join its middle p. to that of the last ring in the circle underneath. Knot it and then turn the work as in making insertion, and, allowing about one-fourth of an inch of the working thread, make a 2nd ring, also knotting it when drawn; then turn the work again and make a 3rd ring, joining it to the 1st one of its own circle by the side p.; turn, make another ring and join it to the second ring of this circle by the side p.; turn, make another ring, and join it to the next ring in the 2nd circle (see engraving) by the middle p., and also at the side p., as before. Work in this manner entirely around the circle. Close the circle as before, and carry the thread up for the next circle. The latter is made on the same principal as the one first finished, but is arranged as follows: The inner row of rings is made the same as the last row. The outer row is made with 4 d. s. between the p. instead of 3. The alternate rings of the inner row are joined to the successive rings of the row underneath by the middle p., and the intervening rings are caught, by their middle p., to the joined side picots of the row underneath, the working thread being carried along at the back of the work. The slack of thread allowed be- tween the rings of this circle is about three-eighths of an inch. To make the Section around the Circles. — Carry the thread up and make 7 rings of 16 d. s. each, with 3 p. (4 d. s. between each), joining them by the side p. When making the 1st of the 7, catch the rst side p. made to the middle p. of the ring of the last circle underneath. Make the large or end ring as follows: 3 d. s,; join to side p. of last ring made; then 1 d. s., 10 quite long p., and then another d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s. No. 37. Now make the next ring (on the row coming back) the same as the one opposite, joining it to the large ring by the side p. Then knot the working thread into the thread between the rings of the opposite row (see engraving) and then make 6 other TATTING AND NETTING. 55 rings in a similar manner to correspond with those of the first row, knotting the working thread into the thread carried up for the first ring, and with it also joining the side p. of the last ring made to the middle p. of the ring underneath. Now carry the thread along towards the left and fasten it to the middle p. of the next ring. Then begin the first ring of the next double row as follows: 4 d. s., and fasten to the thread between the rings underneath; 7 d. s , fasten to the middle p. of the ring opposite in the first double row; 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. ; draw the ring together. Make 6 more rings in a similar manner, the same as in the first row of the other double row; now make the large end-ring and work back as before. Work similar double rows all round the work, and join the last row to the first by the p. and the working thread. This tatting should be made exactly according to the instructions just given. Tatted Wheel. (Five-Point, Two-Thread Pattern). No. 38. — Begin by making 5 large loops for the center as follows: 2 d. s., 1 p., and repeat 9 times more; 2 d. s., draw up and fasten. Make 4 other loops in the same way carrying the thread along between each. Join each loop to the one before it by drawing the thread through the last p. at the place in the pattern calling for 1st p., and mak- ing of the thread thus drawn through a long p. Fasten the 5th loop to the 1st, bring up the thread and proceed with 2 rounds of small loops as follows: * 5 d. s., join to 3rd p. of 1st large loop, 5 d. s., draw up and fasten. Turn. Work 5 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up, turn the work and repeat from * 4 limes more, finishing this loop and 1st p. of next loop, 3 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., join to 2nd p. of loop, 1 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., join to 3rd p. and 1st of next loop, 4 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., join to 2nd p. of loop, 1 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., join to last p. and 1st of next loop, 3 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., join to 2nd p. of loop, 1 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., join to last TYfff is n Y a. WW No. 39. — Handkerchief Corner is Tatting. p. and 1st of next loop, 3 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., join to 2nd p. of loop, 1 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., join ; repeat from * 4 times more. c, L* -5 v~* Ct*$i*& So. 38. — Tatted Wheel (Five-Point, Two Thread Pattern.) with small loop, made like the 1st, but fastened to the 8th p. of the large loop. This finishes the 1st large loop, or point ; make the other 4 in the same way. For the last round, join 2 threads to 1st p. of outside loop, * 3 d. s., 1 p*., 1 d. s. and join to 2nd p. of the loop, 1 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., join to 3rd p. of Handkerchief Corner in Tatting. No. 39. — This border is handsome for handker- chiefs, toilet-cushion covers or any article to be trimmed at a corner, and may be worked with coarse or fine cotton, linen or silk, according to the pur- pose for which it is intended. The design consists of four-leaved figures, which are joined to each other by means of long picots, and is worked with 1 thread only. For each ring of the 1st figure work 6 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., draw the stitches together; close to this work 3 more similar rings, tie the ends of the thread together and cut them off. Each p. should be about one-fourth of an inch in length. All the figures are worked alike. In the following figures, instead of forming one or the other of the picots, join to the figures previously worked, as shown by the illustration. Besides trimming the outer edge of a handker- chief with this border, it is pretty used as an inser- tion between the hem and center of the handker- chief, and if used for this purpose, should be worked with fine linen thread. The border can be made wide or narrow, as preferred, by working more or less rows of the four-leaved figures, joining them as they are made. 56 TATTING AND NETTING. DoilgYs, squares and TiDies. Tatted Wheel to be Used as a Doily or Mat. No. i. — This beautiful wheel was taken from a large tatted cape made many years ago in a European convent. An illustration of this cape may be seen on page 48. The cape also in- cludes many other wheels, squares, rosettes, etc. together by tying the picots to each other and to the tiny rings. The center portion of each scol- lop, and the middle of the mat is done in rick-rack stitch. Each three-ring ornament is made separ- ately and joined as seen in the picture. The same plan is observed in making the small half-wheels in the middle section of the mat. Each is made and No. 1. — Tatted Wheel: To be Used as a Doily or Mat. Owing to the fineness of the work accurate count- ing of the stitches could not be accomplished, and we would suggest that only expert workers under- take to develop the wheel here illustrated. The method of its construction, however, is very simple as it is composed almost altogether of rows of plain tatting shaped as seen in the picture and fastened fastened to the adjoining one by the corresponding picots, and is caught to the rows between which it is located by other picots, as will be seen by a close reference to the engraving. This wheel made in silk, with the center left out and fringe attached to the edge, would make a charming cover for a lamp-shade. TATTING AND NETTING. 57 Tatted Doily WITH Linen, Embroidered On i kk. No. 2. — Only one thread is required for first round. Make 9 p. With 2 d. s. be- tween each one, then draw loop up, pull thread through a p. of first loop and make 5 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 5 p. with one double stitch between each one, 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s. draw up, slip thread through next p. and make 5 d. s., join to last p. of preceding loop, 2 d. s., 5 p. with 1 d. s. be- tween, 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s. draw up, continue till you have 9 loops, joining the 9th to the first p. of the first loop. Tie thread, break off, and begin another rosette exactly like the first, only join the 4th and 5th loops to the mid- dle p. of 2 loops in the first rosette. Join the 3rd rosette to the 2nd in the same way, leaving 2 loops at the top and 3 at the bottom of the 2nd rosette. Make 21 rosettes, joining them so as to form a circle. For the second round 2 threads are used. Slip thread through the middle p. of the left upper loop of one of the rosettes, make 8 d. s., and fasten in middle p. of next s. and join in middle of first loop of second rosette, and so on till you have gone around. Tie and break off thread. The third round requires only one thread. Make ^Oc&gg, 0®^^5^>rt SaJrySK y©F5srK t^M^SSmLA 0^3 -v ?*&* q ijrfgftft Id§«lg3 1 'Vc^ocSi^c -S** <^ §1 sir P &&3&A i %%^^^o *5 5>o«p 3*3 w — fsf^Sg1 No. 3.— Tatted Tidy. No. 2. — Tatted Doily with Lunar, Embroidebed Center. loop, close up, make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s. and join in middle p. of left loop of next rosette, 8 d. s. and join in the middle p. of next loop, 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. 5 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., fasten in a p. of round below, 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s. draw up, turn work, make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., draw up, turn work again, make 7 d, s., fasten to last p. of first loop, 7 d. s. draw up, then close to preceding loop make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., draw up, turn work make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s. draw up, turn work and make 5 d. s., fasten to p. of last loop on lower side, 2 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., fasten in p. of row be- low as you did first loop, 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up. Continue till the row is completed, then take a needle and thread and draw up till it lies smoothly; cut out a circle of linen to fit, roll the edge and whip on border of tatting. Tatted Tidy. No. 3. — This showy tidy is easily made, its wheels being mainly formed of narrow edging, made with an inner row of small rings and an outer row of large and small rings. The center of each of the 4 small wheels is formed of a large ring of alternate doubles and picots — 21 of the latter. The next round is made of large and small rings, the latter being joined by center p. to the p. of the center. Then follows a round like the 58 TATTING AND NETTING. outer edge of the large wheel, with every other one of the inner rings joined to the outer rings of the last round. The large wheels are made on the same plan until they reach the third round which is made with 2 threads — chs. of as many d. c. as necessary being joined by middle p. to the outer row of rings in the 3rd round, and these chs. alternate with rings which are joined by middle p. to the small rings of the outer round. The short strips are made like the outer rows of the wheels, the insertion being doubled and joined by the p. of the small row of rings. Regarding the num- ber of rings in a wheel, make as many in each round as will be necessary to cause the wheel to be perfect- ly flat. The number will vary with the texture of the thread and the manner in which the stitches are made. Tatted Doily. No. 4. — No. 30 thread was used in mak- ing the beauti- ring like the last; then repeat until there are 12 rings; fasten these to the center rings with a needle and thread, catching to the 4th and 8th p. of the rings around the center, and also through a p. of 2 rings on the strip last made (see picture); carefully preserve a right and a wrong side to the work. Next round. — Make wheels thus: For the center ring make n p. each separated by 1 d. s. ; draw up and break the thread. Next make a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; leave a short space of thread, make another ring like the last, and continue until there are 10 rings; fasten this strip of rings to the center ring (or the one having n picots), making a slip knot through each ring and each p. of center ring and carrying the thread along (see picture). Make 12 of these wheels and tie to each other by 2 p. and to the center also by 2 p. ; be careful to tie securely and as neatly as is possible. Next round. — Make a ful doily illustrat- ed, but a finer thread would result even more charm- ingly. The actual size is about ten in- ches in diameter. Begin at the center and make a ring of 5 d. s., a p. (quite long), * 1 d. s., a p., and repeat from * until there are n p.; then 5 d. s., and close. Leave about a quarter of an inch of the thread, and make another thread like the last, except that in making the 1st p., join to the last p. made in the last ring; continue until there are 6 rings, but in making the last one join it to the first ring made, instead of making the last p.; also tie the last one to the first, leaving the same length of thread as between the others. Fill in the center of each ring and the center itself with rick-rack stitch. Next, make a row of wheels, making each one thus : Make 1 d. s., 1 p., and repeat until there are 9 p.; then 1 d. s. and close the ring; leave about a quarter of an inch of thread, and make another ring of 3 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., a p., 1 d. s., a p., 3 d. s., and draw up; turn the work and make another ring like the last, leav- ing a short space of thread. Work in this way until there are 37 rings on one edge, or until the strip is long enough to go around the center and lie per- fectly flatly; now tie this strip to the center by 1 p. in each of 2 rings, then skip 2 rings in the strip and tie the next 2 rings to 2 rings in one of the center wheels, leaving a ring free at each side of the tying in the wheels around the center; then fill in these spaces with a small ring made of 5 p., each separated by 1 d. s., and tie this ring to the 2 p. left free in the center wheels, and the 2 rings left in the strip. To make Large Wheels. — 12 p. each separated by 1 d. s., then draw up. Make a strip of 12 rings of 3 d. s., and 3 p. each separated by id. s., then 3 d. s. ; fasten these around the center ring, catching the p. to each small ring with a slip knot; then TATTING AND NETTING. 59 carry the thread to the next one, and so on until all are tied. Last rou /i J. — Make rings of i d. s., a p., and re- peat 6 times more; then i d. s., close. Leave about a quarter of an inch of thread, then make another ring and repeat until there are 12 rings in all; tie together leaving the same length of thread be- tween, and fasten these rings to the wheel just made, the same as the first strip of rings was fas- tened to the center. Make 12 more of these large wheels and tie to each other through 1 p. in each of 2 rings; then tie this round of wheels to the center, leaving 2 of the rings free between each tying in the double strip (see pic- ture), and fill up the space by- rings made with 7 p. with 1 d. s. between each (see picture). Center-Piece, with Tatted Border No. 5.— First row. — Use one thread and make 12 p. with 2 d. s. be- through middle p. of 1st loop of a rosette, make 7 d. s. ; then with 1 thread make (close up) 7 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 J)., 1 d. s., 1 ]>., 2 d. s., i p., 5 d. s., draw up as closely as possible; make 5 d. s. and join in last p. of preceding loop, 2 d. s., 5 p. with 1 d. s. between, 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up close to the loop, make 5 d. s., join in last p. of 2nd loop of clover-leaf, 2 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. P-, 7 d. s. ; draw up. With both threads make 7 d. s. and fasten in middle p. of 3rd loop of rosette; with both threads, as close as possible, make 7 d. s. ; with one thread make 7 d. s. and join in last p. of 1st clover leaf, 1 d. p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up. Continue as in 1st clover leaf, then with both threads make 7 d. s. and fas- ten in middle p. of 1st loop of next rosette. Repeat all round. Third round. — Use 1 thread. Make 5 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., join in middle tween each; draw up and then make (a little distance from this loop) 7 d. s., and fasten in a p. of 1st loop, 7 d. s., draw up; a little distance from this loop make 5 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 5 p., with 1 d. s. between, 2 d. s. 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up; then make 7 d. s. and join in next p. of 1st loop, 7 d. s., draw up; make 5 d. s., join in last p. of 1st large loop, 2 d. s., 5 p. with 1 d. s. between, 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up. Continue until you have 12 large and 12 small loops, fastening the 1st to the 12th to form a rosette. Tie and break off thread. Begin another rosette just as you did the 1st, only join the 4th and 5th loops to the middle p. of 2 loops of 1st rosette. Join the 3rd rosette to the 2nd, leaving 3 loops on the upper side, and 4 on the lower. Make 26 rosettes and join the 1st and last to form a circle. Second round. — Use 2 threads. Slip thread p. of large loop of a clover leaf below, 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s.; draw up, turn work and make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s. ; draw up, turn work, make 5 d. s. and join in last p. of large loop, 4 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s.; draw up, turn work again and make 7 d. s., 1 p., 7 d. s., draw up; on lower side make 5 d. s., and join in p. of small loop, 2 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., join in middle p. of clover-leaf below, 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s , 1 p., 5 d. s.; draw up. When the row is done, with a needle and thread draw up work until it lies smoothly, cut a circle of linen of the proper size, roll the edge and whip on the tatting. A pretty floral design in natural colors is em- broidered on the center. The design may, however, be developed in white wash silk or in white linen floss. It is not necessary to embroider the center which may be of sheer linen or India lawn. 60 TATTING AND NETTING. Design for Tatted Tidy. No. 6. — The engraving of this tidy fully explains No. 6. — Design for Tatted Tidy. to the average tatting maker the method of mak- ing the article. The border consists of 3 rows of ordinary insertion, joined as made, and the bands or stripes are similarly made. When the wheels are completed the bands and border are made, and are attached during their construction to the p. of the wheels as seen in the picture. Whether made of coarse or fine thread, this tidy will prove a very pretty article of decoration. Tatted Doily. No. 7. — This doily is made of No. 60 cotton. It is simple, rapidly made and very effective. It should be noted that in tatting, the length of the p., by adding to the lace-like effect, largely increases the beauty of the work. Begin with the 4 half- wheels which surround the muslin center. They are worked as follows: Middle ring: 2 d. s., 6 p., with 2 d. s. between, 5 d. s., draw up and fasten. Large ring: 5 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 5 p., (1 d. s. be- tween each), 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up; tuin the work. Then for the small ring: 7 d. s., attach to 1st p. middle ring, 7 d. s., draw up. Continue till you have 7 large rings and 6 small ones, but instead of forming the 1st p. of each ring, join to the last p. of the preceding ring. For the round beyond the 4 half-wheels, use 2 threads as follows: Work 3 d. s., using 2nd thread; join to middle p. of 1st large ring of wheel, 3 d. s., still using 2nd thread; make a ring of * 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up; using 2nd thread, make 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s.; using single thread, * repeat between the stars for 4 rings, then join double thread to center p. of 3rd ring of wheel; con- tinue rings and chs. around the wheel, joining the 3 cen- ter chs. to the 3 center rings of wheel- Four large wheels form the corners. To make each, begin in center and work 1 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p.; con- tinue till 13 p. are made, then draw the ring. The outer portion of these wheels consists of 13 large and small rings made like those of the half-wheels. The spaces between the large wheels are filled in with smaller wheels which consist of a central ring of 9 p. with 2 d. s. between, and a circle of large wheels made like those around the large wheels, but having the thread at the conclusion of each drawn through one of the p. of the central ring. The doily is then completed by an edge worked with * 2 threads of 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s.; fasten in central p. of wheel; 5 d. s., 5 p., with 1 d. s. between, 5 d. s., 1111 ^pfey( **3§g>4" m§& itil 1 w^v^^'^^?^iySSp-v 1 56. mmMm- ^^|g#8^ | No. 7.— Tatted Doily. fasten again in middle p. *. Repeat between the stars. Continue to work in this way round the doily. TATTING AND NETTING. 01 Tatted Don. v. No. 8. — This doily is of a pretty size for finger- bowls, and may be worked with linen, cotton or silk. Begin in the center, and with one thread only, work a small circle of i d. s., * i p., 2 d. s., repeat from * until you have 8 p.; then make i d. s. ; draw the stitch- es together to form a ring, tie the ends and cut off the thread. Now use two threads; * with i thread work a ring of 6 d. s., join to a p. of the small circle just worked, 6 d. s., draw- together, turn the work, and with both threads work a chain of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s.; turn the work back again, and repeat from * all round. This completes the small center rosette. Around this rosette, work a round of 8 three-leaved figures as fol- lows: With one thread only, make 4 d. s., 5 p., each sep- arated by 2 d. s., then 4 d. s. ; close the stitches; 2 more similar rings are worked close to this, then the ends are tied and the thread cut off, but in working these three-leaved figures, the 3rd or middle p. of one of the leaves is joined to a p. of the center rosette; surrounded by a round of chains worked with 2 threads, as follows: Join to the 4th p. of one of the rings of the three-leaved figures (see picture), and No. 9. — Tatted Square. (For Description Bee Page 62.) No. 8.— Tattkd Don. v. the three-leaved figures are not joined to each other, but to the center rosette only. These figures are then, * with both threads, make 2 d. s., 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s.; fasten thread in 2nd p. of opposite ring of same three-leaved figure; 2 d. s., 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s.; fasten thread in 4th p. of nearest ring of next three- leaved figure, and repeat from * all round. The next round is worked alternately with 1 and 2 threads. * With 1 thread, work 5 d, s., join in 1st p. of a chain of last round, 5 d. s., draw up, turn the work, and with both threads make a chain of 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s. ; turn the work again, and with one thread make a ring as before, joining the 3rd p. of same chain of previous row as before; turn the work and make another chain; turn the work, and with 1 thread make a ring, again joining to last p. of same chain as before; turn, and with both threads make a chain; turn, and repeat from * all round. There should be 3 rings on every chain of previous round. The next round is worked alternately with 1 and 2 threads. * With 1 thread, work a ring of 6 d. s., join to a p. of the previous round, 6 d. s., draw up, turn the work, and with both threads make a chain of 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s. ; turn, and re- peat from * all round. Finish with a round as fol- 62 TATTING AND NETTING. lows: * With i thread make a ring of 7 d. s., join to a p. of previous round, 7 d. s., draw up, turn the work, and with both threads work a chain of 2 d. s., 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s., turn, and repeat from * all round. Tie the threads closely and neatly together at the end of each ' round, and cut them off. After completing the doily, pull it out so as to make it lie flatly; then lay a damp cloth on the wrong side and press with a warm iron. Tatted Square. (For Illustration see Page 61.) No. 9. — The square here illustrated was also taken from the elaborate piece of tatting shown on page 48. It will not need special directions, as a close inspection of the engraving will perfectly dis- close the method of making. It is nearly all tied together. Rings and rows of rings, all with many long p., are first made and then formed into the design seen. The center is one large ring with long p., and it is fastened to a cir- cle of tiny rings with long center p. A similar row of tiny rings is next the inner square of larger rings, and is tied to it, and then the space be- tween the two rows of tiny rings is filled in with rick-rack stitches. The effect is very dainty. The wheels or rosettes are made separately and then tied in as seen in the picture. The finer the thread selected, the more delicate the effect. Tatted Circle. No. 10. — This is a very pretty circle to be used as a doily when made of fine linen or cotton thread; or, for parts of a tidy when made of coarser cotton or silk. The engraving is of full size. Work as follows: Begin in the center with i thread only, and work a ring of i d. s., and 8 p., each separated by 3 d. s., and finally 2 d. s.; join the thread to the 1st p. of the ring just worked after it is drawn together, and work * 4 d. s., 7 p., each separated by 2 d. s., finally 4 d. s. ; draw the stitches together, and fasten the thread to the next p. of the middle ring and repeat No. 10. — Tatted Circle. from * all round; but in working each succeeding ring, instead of forming the 1st p., join to the last p. of the preceding ring. After completing the round, join the last ring to the 1st ring and fasten the thread to the 1st p. of the middle ring. Now follows a row of four-leaved figures. Work each of these figures as follows: 1 ring of 3 d. s., 5 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 3 d. s.; draw the stitches together. Close to this ring work 3 similar rings, but join one of these rings by the middle p. to the middle p. of one of the rings of the small rosette; in working each four-leaved figure join to a ring of the rosette and to the figure previously worked. Work the next round with 2 threads as follows: fasten the threads to a middle p. of four-leaved fig- ure, and work over the foundation thread, 1 d. s., 9 p., each separated by 2 d. s., then 1 d. s.; join to the middle p. of the upper ring of the next four-leaved figure, and repeat all round. Work the fol- lowing round with 2 threads also; join to the middle p. of the four-leaved fig- ure (the one that the previous round was joined to), and work, * after one-tenth of an inch in- terval, with one thread only, a three-leaved fig- ure as follows: 1st a ring of 6 d. s. ; then 5 d. s., each separated by 2 d. s., then 5 more d. s.; close to this make 2 similar rings. After completing the 3rd ring fasten to the 1st ring where it is closed, and, after one-tenth of an inch interval, fasten to the same p. of the four-leaved figure. Now with both threads work 8 d. s.; join to the last p. of the last ring of the three-leaved figure; now 7 d. s., join to the middle p. of the scollop of the preceding round, and work, after one-tenth of an inch interval, with one thread only, a three-leaved figure as before, which must be joined to the last ring by the middle p. of the three-leaved figure first worked. After one-tenth of an inch interval fasten to the same p. of the scollop as before. Now with both threads work 7 d. s., join to the three-leaved figure, 8 d. s., join to the middle p. of the upper ring of the next four-leaved figure, and repeat from *. At the end of the round join to the 1st p. joined to. TATTING AND NETTING. 68 Tatted Doily. No. ii. — Begin by making a ring thus: Make 3 d. s., then 8 p., each separated by 3 d. s. ; then make 8 tiny rings of 5 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., and tie each ring when made, in a p. of center ring, and join the circle neatly after the last one is made. Next round. — Take a 2nd thread and make with the 2 threads a chain of 6 d. s., 1 p., tie in a p. of tiny ring, and continue for the entire round in the same way; then break the thread. Next round. — Make groups of 3 rings, each con- sisting of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s. ; tie in a p. of chain, then make another group and tie in the next p., and so on until there are 8 groups in all; then fasten to first group neatly, and break the thread. Now to even out the 4 cor- ners, make 2 rings like those in the groups, and tie to each of 4 cor- ners, tying in the p. of middle ring; tie before the 1st is made and also after the last one is completed; then break the thread. Next round. — Now use 2 threads again, and make a long strip of rings and chains thus: For each ring make 3 d. s., then 5 p., each separated by 3 d. s., then 3 d. s. ; for the chain make 6 d. s. Make 28 rings, and join the last one to the first one as neatly as possible; now tie this strip to the center thus: tying between each chain, tie to a middle p. in ring of center group, skip 1 ring and 2 chains, and lie to middle p. in 1st of 2 corner rings, skip 2 rings and 3 chains for cor- ner, and tie to middle of next ring, and so on for the entire round, skipping 1 ring and 2 chains across the sides, and 2 rings and 3 chains for each corner. Next round. — Use 2 threads and tie in the middle p. of 1st ring after the corner; make 1 ring of 3 d. s., 1 p., then 4 d. s., each separated by 3 d. s., then 3 d. s.; then make a chain (with both threads) of 7 d. s., tie in the middle p. of next ring; then make another ring and chain, but join the next ring to side p. of first ring, make 4 rings and chains like the last; then for each corner make 3 large rings of 4 d. s., join to last ring made, 4 d. s.; then 4 p., each separated by 4 d. s. ; then 4 d. s., and close; be- tween each ring make chains of 8 d. s., tying to the p. underneath the same as first described; between each corner along the sides make 4 rings and chains and tie the last one to the 1st as neatly as possible; break the thread and begin the next round. Next round. — Make a ring of 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., ring be- , 4 d. No. 11. — Tatted Doily, 1 p., 4 d. s,, join to middle p. of 1st small yond the corner, 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 a. s. and close; join the 2nd thread and make a chain of 8 d. s., then another ring like the last one, only join it to the 1st side-picot of last ring made after mak- ing the 4 d. s., instead of making the 1st p., and also join to ring underneath; make 4 rings in all with the 8 d. s.-chains between, then 2 more like the last, but join the last 2 to the side p., of 1st large ring, leaving the middle p. free. For each corner make 2 large rings thus: make 4 d. s.,' join to side p. of last ring made, 2 d. s., then 4 p. each separated by 2 d. s.; 2d. s., join to side p. of large ring underneath, 2 d. s., then 5 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 4 d. s. ; make a chain of 12 d. s., then another ring like the last; now make 8 more rings like the first one in this round, joining the first 2 and last 2 to the side-picots of large ring under- neath; then make the other corners and sides in the same way, and join the last ring to the first ring, after making the last chain and tying the upper side-picots together. Next round. — Make 4 ring-figures, each ring hav- ing 5 d. s., then 3 p. each separated by 5 d. s., then 5 d. s.; make a strip having 24 groups or figures, each joined to the last by the middle p. of one ring, as made. Join this to the center by tying a p. of one ring over the corner chain, then a ring to the first chain at each side, then to every other chain until the next corner is reached, and so on around the square. Next round. — Make one ring like those in the last round, tie in 1st figure from the corner; then join the 2nd thread and make a chain of 14 d. s. (but if the work does not seem inclined to lie flatly, make 15 d. s.), tie in center p. of top ring in the 64 TATTING AND NETTING. group; then another ring like last and tie in same p.; then repeat the chains and rings until the cor- ner is reached (see picture), or until there are 5 rings and 4 chains; then make 15 d. s. (if 14 were used before), and for the corner after the last chain, turn the work and make 1 ring, catching the middle p. in middle p. of top corner ring, turn the work again, make another ring, then a chain of 8 d. s.; turn again, make one more ring and catch in the same top-picot at corner; turn again, make 1 ring, then 15 d. s., and repeat for all the sides and corners. Next round. — Tie the two threads in the 1st cor- group by the middle p. of a ring, to one ring or chain in last group (see picture). Make 28 groups, then tie to the center, allowing 6 groups to each side, and tying them over the chains underneath, with 2 rings between each tying along the sides, and only one ring at the corner, tying a ring at each corner to the center ring at the corner. No use like Tatted Square for Tidy. No. 12. — Barbour's linen thread, No. 70, was :d for making the square shown. Four squares 2 it are required in making the tidy, and they No. 12. — Tatted Square for Tidt. ner-ring, then make a chain of 7 d. s., turn, and make a ring like those in the last round, letting it fall down; make a chain of 7 d. s., fasten to the middle p. of ring underneath, and repeat from be- ginning until the last ring before the two corner ones is reached; then make 8 d. s. for a chain, 1 ring, 8 d. s., tie to 1st of 2 corner-rings, 6 d. s., 1 ring, 6 d. s., tie to next ring, then 8 d. s., 1 ring, 8 d. s., tie to next ring and repeat for all the sides and corners. Last round. — Make a strip of 4 ringed figures thus: For each ring make 3 d. s., then 7 p. each separ- ated by 3 d. s., then 3 d. s. and close; join each may be joined by broad ribbon if desired. The square consists of rosettes each made thus: Begin with one thread and make a ring of * 2 d. s., 1 half- stitch, 1 p., and repeat 4 times more from *; then 2 d. s., 1 half-stitch, and draw up. Now take the 2 threads and make a chain just like the ring, then another ring, but join the second ring to the first one where the second p. would come, at its corre- sponding p.; work rings and chains until there are 8 rings and 8 chains, and join the last ring to the first to form a circle as illustrated. There are 4 rosettes in the center joined as seen in the picture, then 8 around the center 4, and 4 at each corner (see picture). TATTING AND NETTING. 65 Half of Oblong, Tatted Doily. No. 13. — Begin at the center and work with one thread a ring, thus: Make 2 d. s., 1 p., " 3 p., and repeat 6 times more from *; then 2 d. s., and draw up. Carry the thread along and fasten in the last p.; then make another ring like the 1st one, except that you catch in the 2nd p. of last ring after making the 2 d. s., instead of making the 1st p.; fasten the thread as before and make another ring; fasten the thread in the loose thread which was carried along from each ring to a p., and then make 2 more rings, fastening them the same as just described; this makes 2 rings at each side and one at the end. Fasten on the other thread, turn and make a chain of 4 d. s., 1 p., * 2 d. s., 1 p., and repeat 5 times more from last *; then 2 d. s., fasten in 3rd p. of ring; next make another chain of 7 p. each separated by 2 d. s., beginning and ending with 2 d. s. ; catch in the middle p. of next ring. Make 4 more chains like the last, and fasten the last one between the 2nd and 3rd d. s. of 1st chain. Turn the work, and still using the 2 threads, make a chain of 7 p. each separated by 2 d. s., also beginning and ending with 2 d. s. Now with the shuttle thread make a small ring of 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. d. s., 1 No. 13.— Half of Oblong, Tatted Doily. s., catch in the 4th p. of chain underneath, 2 d. s., i p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. ; draw up. Now make a chain of 2 d. s., then 9 p. each separated by 2 d. s., 2 d. s., another ring like the last one, catch- ing in the middle p. of chain underneath; then a chain of 1 d. s., then 8 p. each separated by 2 d. s., 2 d. s., another ring like the last, but fasten between the 2 chains underneath, in the top of the middle No. 14. — Tatted Doily. (For Description see Page 66.) p. in the group of 5; this brings you to the center of the figure. Now work the other half to corre- spond with the one just made, fastening the last chain in the last p. of last chain underneath. This completes one section. For the large wheel at the end, make a large ring for the center thus: 1 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., and repeat until there are 12 p. in all, ending with 1 d. s.; draw up the ring, fasten, and break the thread. Next, make around this ring 12 small rings, thus: 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., draw up and fasten the thread to a p. of large ring. Make another small ring like the last, except that you fasten to the 1st ring at the side p. after making the 1st 2 d. s., instead of mak- ing a p.; draw up this ring and fasten in the next p. of large ring, and so continue for the entire round, fastening the last ring to the 1st one to make a complete circle. Next round. — Make large wheels with 11 p. each separated by 2 d. s., and with 2 d. s. at the begin- ning and end of each; join these wheels where the 2nd p. would come, to the corresponding p. of pre- ceding wheel, and also carry the thread along and join to the p. of the small wheels; fasten the last wheel to the 1st as in the former round, being care- ful to keep a right and wrong side to the work. Next round. — * Make a large wheel thus: 2 d. s., then s p. each separated by 2 d. s., 2 d. s., join to middle p. of a large ring, 2 d. s., 5 p. each sep- arated by 2 d. s. ; then 2 d. s., draw up; now join 66 TATTING AND NETTING. the 2nd thread, turn and make a chain of 2 d. s., 9 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s. ; join to middle p. of next ring in the circle; then make an- other chain, like the last, and also a large ring like the 1st one in this round, and repeat from * 4 times more, tying the last chain neatly to the 1st ring, and joining the wheel to the 1st section at the middle of the 2 chains between 2 large rings, as shown in the picture. Next make the double row of rings at each side of the 1st section made. For the rings use 1 thread; make 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., join to 3rd p. of 2nd chain; 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s.; draw up, turn the work, make a ring of 4 d. s.. 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s.; turn, make another ring like the 1st, except that you join it to the side p. of the 1st ring after mak- ing 4 d. s. ; then skip 1 p. in the chain, and join to the next one after the 2nd 4 d. s.; turn, make an- other ring like the 2nd, joining it to the side p. of the 2nd ring; then turn and make another ring, joining it at the side but not to the chain; turn, make another ring, joining it at the side; then turn again, make another ring, which you join to the side p. and also to the 1st p. of the next chain; make 5 more rings 1st at one side and then at the other, joining the two next the chain in each alternate p. of the chain; then make one more ring like those just made, not joining it to the chain. This brings you to the 3 large rings at the end of this section; turn, make 4 d. s., join to the side p. of the outside ring, * 2 d. s., 1 p., and repeat 5 times more from *; 2 d. s., draw up. Fasten the thread to the last p. of ring just made, and then make another large ring like the last one, only where the 4th p. would come, join it to the middle p. of the next chain in the 2nd section made; now make another ring like the last, fastening it to the side p. of the small ring in place of making the last p.; draw up and tie into position (see picture); also tie the middle p. of this ring to the middle p. of next chain, which joined the two sections 1st made together. Make another section like the one last made for the other side of center section. Now make 4 wheels, as shown, at each side of the center section. Make the center of each with a large ring surrounded by small ones like the center of large wheel at the end; then around this make a small ring of 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. ; draw up and fasten in a p. of the small ring underneath; then make a large ring of 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., join to side p. of small ring just made; * 2 d. s., 1 p. and repeat 9 times more from *; draw up and fasten to p. of next small ring underneath, and repeat the small and large rings until there are six rings of each, joining the last two large rings of two wheels at their middle p., to the 1st and 3rd rings of the side sections, and also tying the last ring made to the 1st one (see picture). Join the other two wheels to the 1st two at the middle p. of the top ring, and also at the last small wheel in the side section, and to the 1st chain next the side section. For the Outer Edge. — Use two threads. With two threads tie in the middle p. of the lower side wheel and make a chain of 2 d. s. ; then 7 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 2 d. s.; * now with one thread turn the work. Make a ring of 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., join to middle p. of next large wheel; 1 d. s., 3 more p. each separated by 1 d. s, then 1 d. s.; draw up turn and make 2 d. s.; join to last p. of chain; 1 d. s.; 1 p. and repeat 5 times more; then 1 d. s.; draw up, and with 2 threads make another chain of 2 d. s. ; join to last p. in ring; 1 d. s., 7 p., each separated by 1 d. s. ; then 1 d. s., and repeat from * for all the work. Make another half like this and join neatly be- fore working the outer edge. Tatted Doily. (For Illustration see Page 65.) No. 14. — The rings and chs. in this doily are made in the same way as those described in the square for a tidy given on page 64, except that the rosettes have 10 rings instead of 8 as in the tidy, and the center consists of 8 half-rosettes made (square on the same plain as the whole rosettes) thus: Make a ring of * 2 d. s., 1 half- stitch, 1 p., and repeat 4 times more from *; then 2 d. s., 1 half-stitch, and draw up. Now take the 2 threads and make a ch. just like the ring, then another ring, but join the 2nd ring to the 1st one where the 2nd p. would come, at its corresponding p.; work rings and chs. until there are 6 rings and 5 chs., and join the last ring to the 1st to form a circle as illustrated; join the 1st and last rings of the 2nd half-rosette, by the 1st 2 p. of the 1st ring and the last 2 of the last ring, to 2nd and 3rd p. of the 1st and 3rd chs. Then join the 8 whole rosettes as seen in the picture. Square Medallion. (No Illustration.) A pretty, small medallion, useful for a variety of purposes, is worked with 2 threads. Fill the shuttle, and make a loop on the fingers with the shuttle thread, 8 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., and draw up; make a loop close, 3 d. s., join to the last p. in the oval just worked, 2 d, s. and r p. alternately 6 times, 3 d. s., draw up; make a loop close, 3 d. s., join to the last p. in the last oval, 6 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s., and draw up; you now have a corner of 3 ovals or leaves resembling a trefoil; reverse the work, take the spool thread and make with it a loop round the fingers, and make a bar of 10 d. s. ; * reverse the work, make a loop with the shuttle thread, 8 d. s., join to the last p. in last oval, 6 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., draw up; make a loop close, 3 d. s., join to the last p. in last oval, 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 6 times, 3 d. s., draw up; make a loop close, 3 d. s., join to the last p. in last oval, 6 d. s., 1 p., 8 d. s., and draw up; reverse the work, take the spool thread and make a loop, and work a bar of 10 d. s., repeat from *; join the last leaf of the 4th trefoil to the first leaf of the first trefoil, and when the square is complete, cut the cotton, and tie the ends securely in a knot. When working successive squares, join by the corner p., or the p. next to the corner, to the correspond-, ing p. in the squares already worked. TATTING AND NETTING. 07 Tattkd Square. No. 15. — Thisengraving illustrates another pretty s [tiara of tatting taken from the handsome tatted cape before mentioned. if preferred, could be underlaid with silk or satin in some pretty tint. Or, narrow ribbons could be drawn through some of the spaces. On pages 7 and 22 are given instructions and illustrations of Owing to its age, the work does not appear as perfectly made as that seen nowadays, but the expert tatting-maker will be able to develop the design with accuracy, and thus determine how very dainty the square may become. As represented, the rings of the work are tied to- gether after the fashion of its day, but they may be joined by the modern method, as made, with a neater effect and more durable results. Made of very fine threads, with the p. left long in order to produce the feathery ef- fect which so increases the beauty of tatting, the square would be a dainty addition to the doileys of my lady's bureau. Tatted Tidy. No. 16. — This engrav- ing shows the corner of a very pretty tidy made of tatting. The tidy may be of any size desired, and, No. 16.— Corker op Tatted Tidy. No 15. — Tatted Square. tatting (insertion), by which the rows composing this tidy could be made. The arrangement of either of the designs can with no difficulty be changed to suit this design, since the principle is the same in both. Owing to the fact that the tidy illustrated had undergone the laundry process before it was photographed, and had in consequence suffered disintegration, the cut shows the imperfection in the detachment of one of its rosettes. The latter are all to be connected at each side to the in- tervening bars as seen in the lower and outer ro- settes. The expert will be able to connect all of her rosettes, bars and rows as she works; but they may be made separately and tied together. Made about four inches square and of very fine thread, the design develops into the daintiest of doileys; but it may be made of coarser thread or cot- ton and of any size desired. A set might comprise tidies, a center-piece and large and small doiley. Tatted Shamrock Doii.y. (For Illustration see Page 68.) No. 17. — Begin at the center and with one thread make a ring of i d. s., i p., 2 d. s., then 11 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 1 d. s., and close. 68 TATTING AND NETTING. Then tie the thread firmly and cut it off neatly. Second round. — Still using one thread, make a ring of 6 d. s., join to a p. of ist ring, 6 d. s. and close; * turn the work and, using 2 threads, make No. \1. — Tatted Shamrock Doily. (For Description see Pages 67 and 68.) a chain of 5 d. s. ; then with 1 thread make a ring of 7 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., then 8 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 7 d. s., and close; now use both threads and make a chain of 5 d. s. ; make a ring with one thread of 6 d. s., join to next p. of first ring, 6 d. s. and close, and repeat from * until all the p. in the first ring are worked into, and there are 12 large rings with chains and small rings be- tween each; but in making the large rings join to each other where the first p. would come (see picture), and in the last large ring join the last p. to the corresponding p. of the first ring, and fasten the thread tight- ly when the circle is fully completed. Third round. — Use one thread and make a ring of 6 d. s., join to the 3rd p. of a large ring in the previous round, 6 d. s., and close. Turn the work and, using 2 threads, make a chain of 3d. s.; turn and make another ring like the last one, but join it to the 5th p. of same large ring; turn the work and with two threads make a chain of 7 d. s.; then with the one thread make a large ring thus: Make 7 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., then 6 p. each separated by 2 d. s., 7 d. s. and close; * close to the last one make another ring like the last one, but where the ist p. would come join it to the cor- responding p. of last ring, and repeat once more from *. Now take the 2 threads and make a chain of 7 d. s., and repeat from the beginning of round; but in making the ist large ring in the next shamrock or group of 3, join the 4th p. to the corresponding p. in the last ring of last group, and at the end join the last ring in the last shamrock to the ist ring of the ist shamrock (see picture). There should be 12 shamrocks in the circle. Tie the thread and fasten off. Fourth round. — Use one thread and make a ring of 6 d. s., join to the 2nd p. of the middle ring of shamrock, 6 d. s. and draw up; use the two threads and make a chain of 3 d. s., then with the one thread make another ring like the last, but join to the 4th p. of middle ring of shamrock; then with the 2 threads make a chain of 8 d. s., then make a smaller shamrock thus: Make a ring of 5 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 6 p. each separated by 2 d. s., then 5 d. s. and draw up; make 2 more rings close to and like the last one, joining each as made to the corresponding p. of last ring after making the ist 5 d. s. ; then make a chain of 8 d. s. and repeat from the beginning of round, except that you join the next 2 small rings which are separated by the 3-chain to 2nd p. of the next ring and the ist p. of the next one (see picture), thus joining to every ring of shamrock in last round, and join the last shamrock to the ist one the same as in the last round; there will be 24 shamrocks in this round. Fifth round. — Make the same as the last except that you only join the 2 small rings to the middle ring of each shamrock instead of to every ring (see picture). There will be 24 shamrocks in this round also. Tie securely, and break the thread. Put a cloth that has been dipped in borax water and wrung out, over the doily and press nicely. No. 18.— Tatted Doily. (For Description see Page 69.) TATTING AND NETTING. 69 Tatted Doii.y. (For Illustration see Pa«e S8.) No. iS. — Two kinds of tatting are employed in making this doily. The rosettes are made with a single thread, and the border with two. The cen- ter of each ring contains 30 stitches and T2 p., with 2 stitches and a half between the p.; finish off and tie in a perfect ring. Be^in the 2nd row by making a small loop of 8 stitches and 3 p. (1 p. between 2nd and 3rd stitches, 1 between 4th and 5th, and 1 between 6th and 7th); draw up and make a larger loop of 16 stitches and 3 p. (r p. after every 4th stitch); draw up and make a 2nd small loop like 1st, attach- ing the 1st p. to 3rd in xst small loop, also attaching each small loop to the ring by middle p. Continue smalland large loops until 12 of each are made, when the rosette will be complete. Examine the pictureinorder to see where the 3 rosettes are joined. The little edge or border is made with 2 threads. After making a loop like larger one in the rosette, tie on the 2nd thread close to loop,holdfirm- ly between left thumb and first finger, wind the new thread around 3rd finger to hold taut, then work d. s. with first thread on the new thread. Make 8 stitches, with 1 p. coming between the 4th and 5th stitches; then begin another loop as before, attaching to the rosettes as seen in picture. Toilet Mat of Tatted Medallions. No. 19. — For the first Medallion in the first round. — Fill the shuttle, but do not cut the cotton off from the spool or ball. Work 8 d. s., a large round p., 8 more d. s., and draw up close; reverse the work, make a loop on the fingers with the spool thread, 2 d. s., 1 p., and 2 d. s. alternately 5 times; * reverse Xo. 19.— Toilet Mat the work, make a loop with the shuttle thread, and make 8 d. s., join to the large round p., 8 more d. s., and draw up; reverse, make a loop with the spool thread, work 2 d. s., 1 p., and 2 d. s. alternately 5 times; repeat from * 4 times more, and join round, tying the ends of cotton securely. Second round. — This round is worked similarly to the first round, with 2 threads, the 2nd thread to come direct from the spool; * make a loop with the shuttle thread, 8 d. s., join to the 2nd p. in one of the straight bars of preceding round, 8 d. s., draw up; reverse the work, make a loop with the spool thread, work 2 d. s., 1 p., and 2 d. s. alterna- tely 5 times; reverse, make a loop with the shuttle thread, 8 d. s., join to the 4th p. in the same straight bar of preceding round, 8 d. s., draw up; re- verse, make a loop with the spool thread, work 2 d. s., 1 p., and 2 d. s. alternately 5 times; reverse, and repeat from * to the end of the round, making i20valsand 12 straight bar scollops in the round; join firmly, and cut off the cotton. All the medal- lions are work- ed in the same manner as the firstmedallion. When you have done 10 Straight bar scollops of the 2nd medallion, join the center p. of the nth or Tatted Medallions. bar j0 (he cen- ter p. of a bar of the 1st medallion, and join the center p. of the X2th bar in the same way. The 3rd medallion must be joined to the 1st, and also to the 2nd medallions; and so on until 7 medallions are arranged in a circle. The tatting, if for a toilet mat, should be laid over a foundation of colored twill or wash sateen. Tatted Doily or Cushion-Cover. (For Illustration eec Page 70.1 No. 20. — Begin in the Center as follmvs: * 1 d. s., a p., repeat from * 8 times more; 1 d. s., draw thread up and fasten. 70 TATTING AND NETTING. Around this large ring are 9 small rings, each made with 7 d. s., a p., 7 d. s. ; draw up and fasten on /MC4. jV ^ * J pep A. J o° W No. 20. — Tatted Doily or Cushion-Cover CFor Description see Pages 69 and 70.) s., a p., 2 d. s., fasten in last left-hand p. of out- side row, 3 d. s., fasten in next p. of wheel, * 3 d. s., a p., 2 d. s., a p., 2 d. s., a p., 3 d. s., fasten in next p.; repeat from * 3 times more; fasten. With the two threads make 5 d. s., turn the work, and with the shuttle-thread make 6 d. s., join to next p. of outside row; 2 d. s., join to the next p., 5 d. s., draw up and fasten; turn the work, make 5 d. s., and repeat from * * 8 times more. Tatted Circle. No. 21. — The circle here illustrated is also a part of the exquisite tatted cape made by Irish nuns and shown on page 48 of this pamphlet. The thread used was quite fine, and the rings in the center rows are very tiny, each having five long p. which produce a very soft, feathery effect. As made, the rows are all formed separately and are then tied together through the p. and working threads. An expert tatting maker, how- ever, would be able to connect the rows as she works, and would thus increase the beauty and finish of the circle, which can be used for a variety of purposes. It may form the center of a doily or a section of a tidy; or, it could be let into a square or circular center-piece of linen to be bordered with tatting. each in turn, to a p. of the large ring. To the p. of the 1st small ring fasten a 2nd thread, bring up the shuttle thread, and fasten at the same place. * Using both threads, make 7 d. s., then take the shuttle thread and make small rings as follows: 5 d. s., a p., 5 d. s., draw up and fasten. Then with the two threads make 7 d. s., and fasten to p. of next ring; repeat from * 8 times more. This com- pletes the 2nd circle from center. Next fasten the threads in cen- ter p. of 1st ring, and make * 6 d. s., a p., 4 d. .s., a p., 4 d. s., a p., 4 d. s., a p., 6 d. s., fasten in p. of next small ring; repeat from * 8 times more. For Outside Wheels.—* * Take the shuttle thread and make center of wheel as follows: 2 d. s., a p.; repeat 5 times more, and draw up and fasten on the 2nd thread; make 3 d. s. a p., 2 d. s., a p., 2 d. s., a p., 3 d. s., fasten in the next p., 3 d. s. and fasten in 1st right-hand p. of outside row, 2 d. No. 21.— Tatted Circle. TATTING AND NETTING. 71 Corner or Tatted Square. No. 22. — The corner of a very handsome tidy or square of tatting is here illustrated. By a close inspection of the engraving and a refer- ence to the instructions for making the tatting illustrated at No. 70, page 29, the square may be easily constructed, since the rosettes are made on precisely the same plan as those in the scollops of the lace mentioned, and its straight strips are composed of reversed and joined rows of tatting like that forming the heading to the lace. The work may be joined as made, or the rosettes may be made separately and joined by tying. The first method is most durable. Should the edge of the square be considered too severe in outline, it may very easily be softened by adding a dainty edging of half or whole wheels. In the first department of this pamph- let will be found many designs for wide and narrow edgings, any of which might be used in its entirety for the purpose suggested; or, parts of many of the edgings could be selected and used to form a very handsome border. Upon the ingenuity of the worker would depend the success of the addition. Tatted Square. No. 23. — This illustration, and No. 25 on page 72, No. 26 on page 73, No. 29 on page 74, and No. 31 on page 75, are all taken from the beautiful cape before alluded to and represented on page 48. When properly developed in fine thread, with long picots, the effect is most No 23.— Tatted Square. Xo 22— Corner of Tatted Sqcark. lovely. By referring to the illustra- tion of the cape the method of ar- ranging all of the wheels, circles and squares taken from it will be seen. The sections named are, however, just as suitable to be used separately as doileys, mats, etc. The old method of tying the parts and rows together has been followed in the cape and its sections, but the modern worker will be able to unite most of the rings, wheels, etc., as she makes them. Neater and more durable work is thus produced. Josephine Knots. This name is given to small bun- ches of stitches that are occasionally knotted upon the shuttle thread to ornament spaces between ovals and bars where a piece of long straight cotton would look too light. To work a Josephine knot, make a loop in the usual manner with the shuttle thread, and work 4 single or half stitches, and draw up quite closely in a round bunch. A larger knot can be made by working 6 single stitches instead of 4. 72 TATTING AND NETTING. Doily of Tatting in Silk, for a Cushion. No. 24. — Begin in the center and make 5 large No. 24. — Doily of Tatting in Silk, foe a Cushion. p. of this loop and 1st p. of the next loop, 3 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., join to the next p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., join to 3rd p. of this loop and 1st of the next, 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., join to the next p., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., join it to the last p. of this loop and the 1st of the next. This takes the 4th round over the loop of the 3rd round, which marks the point. 3 d. s., 1 p., 1 d. s., join to the next p. of the loop, 1 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., join to the 3rd p. of this loop and the 1st of the next, 3 d. s., 1 p., i d. s., join to next p., 1 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., join to last p. of this loop and 1st of the next. Re- peat from * 4 times more. Fifth round. — Use 2 threads, which, if the work has been correctly done, will be fastened half-way between 2 points, * 6 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., fasten in the 1st p. of the point. Use 1 thread, 3 d. s., catch in the last p. of two-thread movement, 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., draw up and fasten. Make 2 d. s. with 2 threads, then fasten to the next p.; make a loop with 1 more p. than the 1st. Make 2 d. s. with the 2 threads, then fasten to the next p.; make a loop the same as the first, except loops, as follows: * 3 d. s., then 10 p. with 2 d. s. between, 3 d. s., draw up and fasten. Repeat from * 4 times more. Join the loops by the 1st and last p. Bring the thread up for the 2nd and 3rd rounds, which are made together, as follows: * First small loop. — 5 d. s., join to 3rd p. of the large loop, 5 d. s., draw up, fasten and turn the work over. First small loop with picots. — 5 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up, and turn the work over. Second small loop. — 5 d. s., join to next p. of large loops, 5 d. s., draw up; turn the work. Then, 5 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up; turn the work. 5 d. s., join to next p., 5 d. s., draw up and turn; 5 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 5 d. s., draw up. This loop marks the middle of the point. Make 3 more small loops, and 2 with the 3 p., the same as the 1st 2 with p.; then repeat from last * four times more. This gives the pattern 5 points. Fourth round. — Use 2 threads; join them to the 1st p. of outside loop, * 3 d. s., 1 p., i d. s., join to 2nd p. of loop, 1 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., join to 3rd ■44 ^?-3&ew y^'^-^-X^-^- -■•---.-,■ i Ck> -si'- wc Tri'i iEB '4^w HMesS ^r $&m^\ -vi ^^^sr^^^^v <-//, * .Sfc.j at -*fr vX- i |« js5^ w33" If ™ « SOUS? 2? 'ds jE-SSSjE ^Tgjj ! ** V ;/• ; No. 25 — Tatted Squabe. (For Description see Page 71.) TATTING AND NETTING. 73 tint you make i more p., which takes the place of the i st joining to the two-thread movement. Make a ch. of 6 d. s., join to the last p. in ring, i p., 4 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s„ i p., 6 d. s.; fasten half-way to the next point. Re- peat from * 4 times more. Finish by working around each point a cluster of loops as follows: Fasten both threads into the 3rd p. of 1st loop after joining; 4 d. s., 1 p., 3d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up and fasten; make a ch. of 3 d. s. ; fasten into the 2nd p. of center loop after joining; make a 2nd loop the same as the 1st; join the 2 at the 1st p. of 2nd loop. Ch. 3 d. s., fasten into the next p. Make a 3rd loop of 4 d. s., fasten to last p. of 2nd loop, 3 d. s.. 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., 1 p , 4 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 3 d. s., 1 p., 4 d. s., draw up; ch. 3 d. s., fasten into the next p. of center loop. Make the 4th and 5th loops the same as the 1st and 2nd. Ch. 3 d. s. between each loop. Repeat for each point. The beauty of this pattern will depend upon its being done evenly, and having the loops well fastened. White silk doileys of this kind would be placed over colored cush- ions, and colored ones over white. Tatted Square. No. 27. — The border and cross portions of this No. 27. — Tatted Square. No. 26.— Tatted SQUARE.— (For Description eee Page 71.) square are made of rows of tatting like that composing the heading to the edg- ing seen at No. 13 on page 8. The rows may be joined by their p. as made, or they may be tied together through the p. The former method is not only the more durable but the neater of the two. The wheels within the squares are each formed of a center ring of p. and double stitches, around which is worked a circle of large and small rings made like those in a number of wheels on other pages of this pamphlet. The maker may- be obliged to experiment a little in order to produce a perfectly flat wheel; and she may connect the wheels, as seen in the engraving, as she makes them, by their p., or they may be tied together through the p. after the thirty-six wheels necessary are completed. Wheel Medallion. (For Illustration see Page 74.) No. 28. — This is a pretty medallion composed entirely of ovals worked with the shuttle thread only. Forthe firstWheel. — Having the shut- tle threaded and filled with cotton, make 74 TATTING AND NETTING. a loop round the fingers, and work 5 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 6 times, 5 d. s., and draw up; * make a loop, 5 d. s., join to the last p. of the pre- vious oval, 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 6 times, 5 d. s. and draw up; repeat from * till you have 8 ovals worked; remember to join the last p. of the 8th oval to the 1st p. of the 1st oval; cut the cotton and tie the ends firmly together. For the second Wheel. — Begin with a loop round the fingers, work 5 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 No. 28. — Wheel Medallion. (For Description see Page 73.) No. 30.— Octagon Medallion. (For Description see Page 75.) No. 29. — Tatted Circle with Points. (For Description see Page 71.) p., 2 d. s., join to the center p. of one of the ovals in the first wheel, 2 d. s. and i p. alternately 3 times, 5 d. s., draw up; make a loop, 5 d. s., join to the last p. of the previous oval, 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., join to the center p. of the next oval in the first wheel, 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 3 times, 5 d. s., draw up; * make a loop, 5 d. s., join to the last p. of the previous oval, 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 6 times, 5 d. s., draw up; repeat from * till 8 ovals are worked, join the last p. of the 8th oval to the first p. of the first oval; join, and secure the ends of cotton. The 3rd wheel is worked simi- larly to the 2nd wheel; and the 4th wheel is to be joined by p. in 4 ovals to the corresponding 4 ovals in the wheels already worked, and the 4 wheels together form a per- fect square. In making successive medallions join the center p. of an oval to the center p. of an oval in a medallion already worked, or they may be crocheted together. When sufficient medallions are worked, take a sewing needle and finer cotton, and fill up the spaces in the center of the wheels, and the spaces in the center of each medallion, with cobweb stitch. TATTING AND NETTING. 75 Octagon Medallion. (Ph Illustration tiee Vn£v 74.) No. 30. — This medallion is tatted with the shuttle thread only. The engraving shows a square of four octagons joined to- gether. Select cotton suitable for the article you intend working. For the first Octagon. — Having a sufficiency of cotton wound upon the shuttle, begin for a large oval — make a loop on the fingers, and work 5 d. s., 1 ]>., 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 4 times, 5 d. s., and draw up; for small oval, reverse the work, make a loop close, 6 d. s., 1 p., 6 d. s., and draw up; reverse the work, for large oval make a loop close, 5 d. s., join to the last p. in the first large oval, 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 4 times, 5 d. s., and draw up; * for another large oval, make a loop, and leaving one-sixth of an inch of thread between this oval and the last, work 5 d. s., join to the last oval ; 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 4 times, 5 d. s., and draw up; reverse, and for the small oval, make a loop close, 6 d. s., join to the p. in the first small oval, 6 d. s., draw up; reverse, and for a large oval, make a loop close, work 5 d. s., join to the last large oval, 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 4 times, 5 d. s., and draw up; repeat from * twice, and in doing the last '(the eighth) large oval join the last p. to the first p. of the first large oval, and this completes the octagon; join round securely, and cut oft the cotton. Make as 32. — Corner op Tatted Tidt. No. 31.— Tatted Sqcare — (For Description see Page 71.) many octagons as you require for the piece of work, joining each octagon in position as you go along. The method of joining may clearly be seen in the illustration, also the spiders' web which fills in the space between 4 octagens, and which is worked in afterwards with a sewing needle and fine cotton. Corner or Tatted Tidy. No. 32. — This engraving represents a very pretty design for a tatted tidy. On pages 7 and 10 may be seen the two kinds of insertion composing the bands and blocks, and also the outer row of the rosettes. The two inner rows of the rosettes are simply plain tatting made like some of the centers, to wheels in other parts of the pamph- let. The tidy from which the corner was photographed had been laundred, and perfectly satisfactory results in the way of a picture were not obtain- able. The engraving, however, will serve its purpose of affording a de- sign or an idea to the ambitions maker of tatting. 76 TATTING AND NETTING. Tatted Doily. No. 33. — First round. — Begin in the center of the doily, make a loop on the fingers with the shuttle thread, work 1 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 11 times, 1 d. s., draw the loop up close, cut the thread, and tie firmly. This forms the center. Second round. — Make a loop, 6 d. s., join to a p. of the first round, 6 d. s., draw up; reverse the work, make a loop \ of an inch away, 4 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 6 times, 4 d. s., draw up; * reverse the work, and again leaving £ of an inch of cotton, make a loop, 6 d. s., join to the next p. of the first round, 6 d. s., and draw up; reverse, make loop \ of an inch away, 4 d. s., join to the last p. of the previous large oval, 2 d. s. 2 d. s., 1 p. and 2 d. s. alternately 5 times; reverse the work, and now make another trefoil similar to the first, and join the 1st leaf to the 3rd p. of last leaf of the previous trefoil (where the straight bar scollop is already joined), and join the 2nd leaf to the center p. of an oval of last round, and continue, and make 12 of the trefoils and 12 scolloped bars in the round. Fourth round. — Heart-shaped scollops. Make a loop with the shuttle thread, 7 d. s., join to the center p. of one of the scolloped bars of last round, 7 more d. s., and draw up; * reverse the work, take a 2nd thread, make a loop and 4 d. s. ; make a loop with the shuttle thread, 2 d. s., 1 p. and 2 d. s. alternately 9 times, draw up; reverse, make a loop with the 2nd thread and 2 d. 1 p. and 2 d. s. al- ternately 3 times; reverse, make a loop with the shuttle thread, and 1 p. alternately 6 times, 4 d. s., draw up, and repeat from * till 12 small and 12 large ovals are worked in the round, and fasten off. Third round. — Worked with 2 threads in trefoils and straight bars thus: Make a loop with the shuttle thread, 3 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 4 times, 3 d. s., draw up; make a loop close by, 4 d. s., join to the last p. in the oval j ust made, 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., 1 p., 2 d. s., join to the center p. of an oval of previous round, 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 3 times, 4 d. s., and draw up; make a loop close by, 3 d. s., join to the last p. in the oval just made, 2 d. s. and 1 p. alternately 4 times, 3 d. s., and draw up; reverse the work, take a 2nd thread and make with it a loop on the fingers, and work 2 d. s., 1 p. and 2 d. s. alternately 5 times, join to the 3rd p. of the last oval; still with 2nd thread, 4 d. s., join to both the 2nd and 3rd p. of the oval with 9 p., 4 more d. s., and draw up; reverse, make a loop with the 2nd thread and 2 d. s., 1 p. and 2 d. s. 5 times; reverse, make a loop with the shuttle thread, 4 d. s., join to both the 2nd and 3rd p. of the oval with nine picots (same place where joined already), 4 more d. s. and draw up; reverse, make a loop with the second thread and make 2 d. s., 1 p. and 2 d. s. alternately three times, join to the middle p. of the oval with nine p., 4 d. s.; reverse, then make a loop with the shuttle thread, 7 d. s., skip one scolloped bar of previous round and join to the center p. of the next scolloped bar, 7 more d. s., and draw up; repeat from* to the end of the round, cut cotton and fasten securely. In this round regulate the 4 d. s.-bars in length to make them flat. TATTING AND NETTING. 77 NETTING. Note : — As everv detail necessary to the knot and mesh-Stick used in Netting is described and illustrated in making a Hammock, we have thought it best to give the Method of Making a Hammock as Rudimentary Instruction in making Netting. Method of Making a Hammock ok a Tennis-Net. (Rudimentary Details of Netting.) The pleasant, not to say luxurious, feeling one enjoys while swaying to and fro in a well-made hammock swung under the "shady roof" of some fnendlv tree, or within some bower where " quiet reigns supreme," is one of the strongest arguments in favor of this unpretentious- looking yet most delightful me- dium of pleasing repose. The majority of ham- mocks purchas- ed are very weighty, and this fault very often furnishes a reason for not carrying them with the travel- ling parapher- nalia when one takes the usual Summer outing. Light, pretty ones can, how- ever, be made at home with but slight expense, and we have endeavored to assist our patrons in making one of the simplest, light- est and prettiest articles of this kind, and at the same time teach them the method or art of Net- ting; for when the knot and mesh of the hammock are mastered, fancy netting of all descriptions be- comes a pastime or employment easily accomplished ; and it will be as easy to make the beautiful netted articles seen on following pages of this pamphlet as to produce the hammock. How to Make the Hammock. No. i. — This engraving illustrates the hammock under consideration, which is small in bulk and light in weight, although it is of the dimen- sions required for use by persons of all sizes and weights. The cord employed in making it is of the soft cotton variety, this being the best for hammocks that are to be carried about from place No. 1.— Hammock -■Wedge or Mesh-Stick. No. 4.— Shuttle, Wound to place, as it is very light and at the same time very strong. The hammock is very easy to con- struct; and by carefully following the succeeding directions, any person, either old or young, will in a ^ery short time gain a thorough knowledge of how to make one like it. Wedge or Mesh- Stick for Netting Hammocks. No. 2. — This illustrates the wedge or mesh-stick to be used in f o rming the meshes in a hammock. The wedge may be easily made at home where there are handy boys, in case it cannot be found in a convenient shop. Take a smooth piece of hard wood eight or ten inches in length, an inch and a half in width, andabout three - quarters of an inch in thickness; and have it beveled or planed off to- ward one long edge, so that this edge will be about an eighth of an inch in thickness, leaving the heavier edge of the wedge from three-eighths to half an inch in thickness. All sharp angles should be smoothly rounded, and then you have your wedge or mesh-stick, just as complete and suitable as if you had purchased it. Mesh-Sticks for Fancy Netting. In making fancy netting, round wood, steel or ivory mesh-sticks, or flat ones of two widths in ivory or wood, such as are seen at Nos. 5, 6 and 7, are used, and they may generally be obtained at fancy-work shops or wherever fancy-work imple- ments are on sale, or they may be made at home — the flat ones from hard wood and the round one from a bone or wooden knitting needle. Ordinary steel knitting needles in the various sizes, as re- quired, may be used in place of mesh-sticks. No. 3. — Needle or Shuttle, Unwound. 78 TATTING AND NETTING. Needle or Shuttle, Unwound. No. 3. — The needle or shuttle required in netting hammocks is illustrated at No. 3. It is similar to that used by fishermen in making "*-£*** : --'-!-* No. 5. — Round Mesh-Stick. ( ) No. 6. ( . ) No. 7. Nos. 6 and 1.— Flat Mesh-Sticks. and may wedge can generally be purchased wherever be procured; or it may be made The shuttle should be held loosely and in one position while winding, so as not to twist the cord, which should be wound on tightly so that it will not slip off during the knotting. When the shuttle is wound, commence the hammock as follows: Tie, hang or otherwise fasten a hook on a tree, table, post, door or any article staunch enough to resist the strength of the' worker. (In making fancy netting some netters use a cushion stuffed with sand or any heavy material, like that seen at No. 8; others fasten a strip of cloth under the foot and over the knee and pin the netting to the strap; others fasten a little iron rod to a window-sill, with a leather strap at each end to hold it, and fasten the netting to the rod; others fasten it to a cord and pin the latter firmly to the knee.) Tie the cord selected for the hammock around nets, the at home if a little ingenuity be exercised. Take the wedge in an ordinary knot, making the knot at smooth piece of hard wood inches long, a an inch wide, enough to be Atone form a a ten or eleven little less than and only thick supple but not to break. end cut it out so as to deep curve or heel to catch the cord, and shape the other end off to a long point, thus pro- ducing a tongue or olive point. About an inch and a quarter below the point, cut away the wood about an eighth of an inch from each side of the center, for three or four inches down, to form a prong or tooth, about which the cord is to be wound. The illustration shows the shape of the shuttle clearly. A sim- pler shuttle, not quite so con- venient may be made as fol- lows: Take a similar piece of wood and cut out each end in a deep curve or heel, making the curve sufficiently deep to retain the cord nicely. Wind the cord straight up and down about this, and the shuttle is ready for work. At Nos. 9 and 10 are shown two styles of steel needles used for making fancy netting. No. 8. — Cushion for Holding Netting. No. 9. Shuttle, Wound. No. 4. — The shuttle is shown at No. 4, with the cord properly wound upon it. In winding the cord on, hold the shuttle in the left hand and wind the cord over and under, twisting it once about the prong at each turn. No. 10. Nos. 9 and 10. — Steel Netting Needles Used in Making Fancy Netting. the top or thinnest edge of the wedge, as shown by No. 11. Slip the loop thus formed off the wedge, and throw it over the hook, placing the knot at the hook. Then take the wedge in the left hand, and hold the TATTING AND NETTING. 79 thickest edge toward you. Bring the cord from the loop on the hook are/ the wedge; carry the shuttle up underneath, and pass it through the loop on the hook; pull the cord tightly, so that the sides of the loop through which the shuttle passes will be straight and tight, and the end of the loop even with the top of the wedge, as shown by figure No. 12, hold- ing the end of the loop so that the knot at the hook will not slip away from the hook. Place the thumb close to the end of the loop, holding the cord drawn be pressed firmly over the cord, and the cord drawn as tightly as possible, so that a slip knot will not be produced. Now slip this loop off the wedge, and carry the cord over the wedge, placing the top of the wedge close to the knot last formed, as shown by No. 16. Then carry the shuttle up underneath, and pass it up through the loop last removed from the wedge, as shown by No. 17; carry the shuttle downward over the wedge, also allowing the wedge to slip downward; pull the cord tightly so as to No. 11. No. 12. No. 13. No. 15. No. 16. No. 17. No. 18. No. 19. No. 20. No. 81. Nos. 11 to 22. — Details of Method or Making a Hammock or Tennis Net. No. 22. through the loop down tightly; now throw the cord up over the loop, and pass the shuttle under the loop hung on the hook, taking up both threads of the loop, as shown at No. 13. Pull the shut- tle through, carrying it downward and holding the thumb close to the loop, as shown at No. 14 ; take hold of the cord and pull it as tightly as possi- ble, still holding the thumb in the position directed, so that the cord will not slip. This produces the knot illustrated by figure No. 15. The thumb must draw the loop down straight and tight, and bring it close to the top of the wedge, as shown by No. 18; then place the thumb close to the end of the loop, and press it closely over the cord, as pre- viously directed. Then throw the cord up over the loop, pass the shuttle under the loop drawn down, taking up both sides of the loop; then carry the shuttle downward over the wedge, and pull the cord tightly to make another knot, always holding the thumb closely till the knot is made. Now slip 80 TATTING AND NETTING. this loop off the wedge, and continue in the same manner to make knots and loops till the required width of the hammock is obtained. In calculating the width for the hammock, it will be well to re- member that the number of knots will be double the number of meshes in the width of the hammock; thus, if the hammock is to be forty-six meshes wide, which is a nice, comfortable width for a hammock to be used by large persons, make ninety-two knots in the way directed above. A child's hammock may be from twenty-five to thirty-five meshes wide; and, to obtain this width, make double the number of knots. As the chain of knots increases, the loop on the hook may be taken off and one of the loops nearer the worker thrown on, so that she may knot her ham- mock with per- fect ease and convenience. When the desired width is obtained, take off the loop on the hook, and also the one on the wedge, but do not break or cut the cord. Take a piece of cord half a yard or more in length, and pass it in and out through one of either of the two rows of loops or meshes made, as shown by No. 19. Then tie the ends of the cord thus run through, together in a knot, and place this loop of cord over the hook, as shown by No. 20. Now take the shuttle and wedge in hand; pass the cord over the wedge; carry the shuttle up underneath, and pass it up through the mesh nearest the working cord, as shown by No. 20. Carry the shuttle downward over the wedge, pulling the cord firmly so as to draw the loop down tightly, and bring it close to the top of the wedge; throw the cord up over the loop and pass the shuttle under the loop, as shown by No. 21, holding the thumb and drawing the cord in the same way as above directed for making the meshes. Keep this loop on the wedge, and take up the next and each succeeding mesh in the same way, holding a convenient number of loops on the wedge, as shown by No. 22. This re- taining of the loops or meshes on the wedge is only to secure a pretty regularity in their size, and also avoids entanglement. When a convenient number of meshes have been taken up in this way — and extreme care must be used not to skip any — take the wedge in the right hand, and with the left take hold of the first loop or mesh to the left on the wedge, and pull all No. 23. Nos. 23 and 24. — Details of Method of Making a Hammock or Tennis Net. except the last loop off; continue to take up the re- maining meshes in the same way till all have been taken up. Then proceed to make the next row of meshes in the same manner, and continue knotting and mesh-making till the desired length is ob- tained. A large-sized hammock, or one forty-six meshes wide, should be seven or eight feet in length. As the hammock lengthens, the cord on the hook may be taken out and run through a row of meshes near the netter, so that she will not have to change her position. This cord is simply to hold the net on the hook, and should be re- moved when the net is com- pleted. When the re- quired length of the ham- mock is ob- tained, cut the cord off, and draw out smoothly each end of the net made. Take the end of the cord cut off, and tie it so as to make a long loop; throw the loop over the hook, and hold one end of the net straight across in front of you. Pass the shuttle through the first mesh at the left side of this end, from under- neath, and also through the next mesh in the same manner ; then throw the cord over the hook and carry it down again; take up the next two meshes in the same manner and again throw the cord over the hook, as shown by No. 23 ; continue in this way till all the meshes in this end are taken up, to form the guys. The length of the guys from the end of the net to the hook should be about three feet in a hammock seven feet long. Now wind the cord tightly about the guys far enough below the hook to leave a ring sufficiently large to suspend the hammock, wind- ing the cord closely for several inches; then lift the ring of the hook and wind the cord about it in the same way, the method being clearly illustrated at No. 24. Finish the remaining end of the net in this manner, and the hammock will then be completed. Ladies residing in or near the city can without any difficulty procure steel or iron rings for the hammock, instead of making the cord rings, which, of course are not so durable. When metal rings are used, hang the ring to be fastened on, upon the hook, and run the guys through it instead of on the hook, and wind the cord about the guys for several inches. No. 24. TATTING AND NETTING. 81 Two, three or more colors may be introduced in hammocks of this style, and the result will he very pretty. The cord may be light or heavy in weight, according to the strength required of the hammock, and may be purchased by the hank or pound. The Oblong Netting. No. 27. — For an oblong shape, as shown in No. 27, the increasing for the corner must be continued until there are two more stitches than are required No. 2o. price asked for it is reasonable, and the cost of a hammock is proportionately trifling. The same implements and the same variety of stitch are essential in making a tennis net, andsuch work can be taught to young men and boys with strong hands, who can make very durable nets for this fascinating game. Of course, after the dimensions requisite for a tennis net are obtained, the ends are stretched instead of being drawn up for a hammock, and are provided with cords to attach them to posts. Hammocks and tennis nets, bronzed or gilded with liquid or dry gilding or bronzing, or dyed in delicate tints of blue, green, yellow, pink or lavender, are now utilized as house decorations, and form very effective draperies and portieres. Square Netting. Nos. 25 and 26. — For netting in straight lines, begin always at one corner with two stitches, and work rows forwards and backwards. At the end of each row increase one stitch by making two stitches in one at the last stitch until the netting is of the required width. No. 25 shows the commencement corner. The straight netting may be either in squares, in an oblong form, in stripes, or with angular edges. For a Square. — Work as many holes in the length as in the breadth, increasing at the end of each row until there is one stitch more than the finished square of holes must contain in one line. For the five holes of the square represented at No. 26, there must be six stitches; then net one more row over this with the same number of stitches plain, and decrease in the same proportion, for which the two last stitches in each row must be net- ted together with one knot. Having by this means reduced the number again to two, unite the two last stitches with one knot in the middle. This is, however, no stitch; simply carry the thread tight across to the joining knots. All square netting is worked in this way. No. 26. Nos. 25 and 26. — Square Netting. for the breadth. This increasing must be continued without interruption on one side; but on the op- posite side it will be necessary always to decrease, so that the number of stitches always remains the same. When the netting is of the required length, No. 27. — Oblong Netting. the last corner must be worked by decreasing, as in the square. Oblongs and squares of netting are very pretty when done in silk for covering handker- chief or glove cases. They may also be made large enough for tidies or scarfs of any description. 82 TATTING AND NETTING. Square in Meshes of Two Sizes. No. 28. — In making a foundation of this style, the work is begun in the usual manner. For the No. 28. — Square in Meshes op Two Sizes. small squares the thread is wrapped once about the mesh-stick; for the large squares it is wrapped twice. This makes a pretty foundation for darning fancy patterns upon. n QXLC1/ I "C'CVi 1 11 j 1 ii 1 \. 1 1 1 \ t t 4 t t 1 LLJL 1 JTJL U L'-J ru u 1 rrr No. 29. — Square op Netting BEGUN AT THE MIDDLE. Square of Net- ting Begun atthe Middle (With Detail). NOS. 29 AND 30. — Instead of begin- ning a square from the corner it may be begun from the middle. Cast on the re- quired number of loops, make an in- take in each row by omitting to take up the last loop of a row. In coming back, your first knot will thus be made over the last loop but one of the previous row. To complete the square, fasten the thread on again to the end of the thread of the first row, then make one similar to it, and repeat the same rows you made at the beginning. Strips of Straight Netting. Nos. 31 and 32. — These can be begun and finished in two ways. The simplest way, more especially when they are to be embroidered after- ward, is to cast on the necessary number of loops for the width required, to decrease on one side by dropping a loop (No. 32), or by joining two loops together with a knot (No. 31), and to in- crease on the other side by making 2 knots over 1 loop. Great care must be taken not to change the order of the intakes and increases, as any mistakes of the kind would break the line of squares, and interfere with the subsequent embroidery, unless there hap- pened to be more loops in the strip than stitches in the pattern, in which case the superfluous loops might be cut away when the embroidery is finished. Straight Netting With a Pointed Edge. (For Illustration see Page 83.) No. ^^. — The second way of making strips of straight netting is to begin by making 2 loops on the foundation loop, then make rows with increases, until you have the required number of loops. Then work the next row down to within 2 loops of the lower edge, turn the work back and always increase 1 stitch in the upper edge in every row; make 8 rows, or until there are 4 loops in the point; this will leave you at the top. Now in the next row work down to within 4 loops of the bottom or point, then make the remaining 7 rows as directed; in this way one edge will be worked plain and the other or upper edge always increased. Any specimen of netting here illustrated may be used as a foundation for plain or fancy darning; and a neat and firm finish may be obtained by closely button-holing the outer edge of either. No. 30. — Detail op Square of Netting begun at the Middle. For detail of button-holing, see No. 50, page 100. Linen or wash silk floss is usually selected for darning. India floss is as soft and smooth as silk and closely resembles it in effect. The darning /^~~ jT~M I 1 mTi"T>" j / fj 1 1 1 iiiii V'" j / 1— - K — * — ™ V -~ ^ — - ■> -»-fc-™.fc .ts— *V— "* 5 — / / F i i i i \ i 1 1 { y / ^ fl 1 J \ * j i 1 i l/ / t q 1. 1 m I jtj j y 1 Q Li M. ]""j"|""j Y ly No. 31. — Strip of Straight Netting. floss and the foundation thread should match in tint to produce the most satisfactory results. Net- ting done with linen may be darned with silk. Further on in the pamphlet will be found numerous patterns and stitches for darning netting. TATTING AND NETTING. 83 Angular Edge for Handkerchief Borders, E re. No. 34- — For an angular edge round pocket handkerchiefs, renters, or the outer edge of a square with a thick center-piece of linen, etc., it is advisable to place the design before one. The commencing point may be easily known by the circle of thread which forms the upper corner of the square. Beginning with a corner, increase until there are two more than double the number of stitches that are required for the breadth; therefore, for the edge of No. 34, which is three stitches broad, eight stitches will be required. Then the part marked with dotted lines a 1 to a 2 must be worked with four stitches as far as the half of the corner; and then turning round with these stitches, continue beginning) corner, cut off the thread at the last row at the inner edge ( see C I to C 2) according to the knot t row of the side edge as far as d 2 is to be work- No. 32.— Strip of Straight Netting Edged with Kmpty Loops. (For Description see Page 82.) No. 34. — Angular Edge for Handkerchief Borders. the stripe, always increasing at the outer and de- creasing at the inner edge. For the next corner at the inner edge, where until now the decreasing has been carried on, following the row marked b 1 and b 2, after the decreasing, make one more stitch in the outermost edge stitch, and with this begin the ed. The work is then continued as at the first half of the edge as far as the under corner, and on arriv- ing there the thread is again cut off at the inner side. Put the thread on afresh at the knot marked ,^; and, according to the design, in the next row enclose the two inner stitches where the cut-off thread hangs, No. 33. — Straight Nettivg with a Pointed Edge. (For Description see Page K2.) increasing for the second side of the inner edge; at the outer edge decrease in the same proportion. Having arrived at the third (the opposite one to the together with the one which forms the corner, and must now be completed as for a square by decreas- ing at the end of each row. This is the last corner. 84 TATTING AND NETTING. Wire Frame for Embroidering Netting. wadding or tow, as shown in No. 35, and then with tape, which must be wound tightly and very No. 35. — In order to darn or embroider netting closely round it, more particularly at the corners, successfully, it should be stretched upon a frame so that it may be quite firm and not twist about No. 35. — Wire Frame for Embroidering Netting. No. 36.— Mounting Netting on a Frame. after the manner of drawn work ; and it is a very good plan to dampen it with borax water and press it before basting it to the frame. After the work is removed then all that will be necessary to com- plete it will be to press the darning or embroidery. The frame on which the net is to be stretched should be made of a strong iron wire that will not bend in the using. In shape it may be square or when the netting is sewn in. The ends of the tape should be secured by two or three stitches. Mounting Netting on a Frame. Nos. 36, 37 and 38. — No. 36 shows the netting in the process of being sewed to an ordinary un- covered frame. When the netting is exactly the JLSLL.L" ' L-I J '" a 1 11 1 1 if i « 11 i 1 IS 1 No. 37. No. 38. Nos. 37 and 38. — Mounting Netting on a Frame. oblong, according to whether squares or edgings are to be made upon it, but the sides must be straight, so that the net can be evenly stretched. This wire frame must be covered, first with size of the inside of the frame, it need only be secured to it with overcasting stitches set very closely at the corners. When the netting is smaller, the space between it TATTING AND NETTING. 85 and the frame must be filled up with strong, very evenly woven tape, sewn on all round the netting. The tape must be very tightly held in the sewing, so that it even forms little gathers all round; this will help you to stretch the netting in mounting it without injuring it, and is especially necessary when the netting is not quite evenly made. No. 38 shows how the tape is sewn on, the fold that has to he made at the corners, and the way to fix the netting into the frame. Long strips or large pieces of work can be mounted on wax-cloth; but the process of shorten- ing the preparatory work in this manner is not No. 39.— Circular Netting of Long and Short Loops. recommended, as the squares of netting are never so regular as when they are made in a frame. Circular Netting of Long and Short Loops. a large filoselle, No. 39. — Make 30 or 31 loops over mesh with a coarse materal, such as then draw up the thread on which the loops are strung, as tightly as possible, so as to form quite a small ring for the center, and fasten off, tying very securely and neatly. ("Mesh" is same as "mesh- stick.") Next rVV \\ (S A/NA/Y'yyyy\A?-yyYyyYyv\AAAAA. NAA/yNAAAAA/\AA^v\AAA/VvA/v\;V AAAA^NAAAA,/yNAA/y\AXAAAAAA/\ ' \ A_/ vAAAy \ A A/ v Diamond Netting. (Kor lllustrati.Mi Me l'i No. 44. — An uneven number of stitches will be required tor this pattern. Cast on about 15 stitches to mike a sample piece to get the stitch perfect. First row. — Net 1 stitch in the ordinary manner; make the next stitch a long stitch by twisting the thread twice round the mesh, and repeat; the row will end with a plain stitch as it began. 5 <>//./ row. — Plain netting, making even the stitches of the row just made. Third rate. — One long Stitch, 1 plain stitch, and re- peat; end the row with a long stitch as it began. Fourth row. — Plain net- ting. Repeat these four r . iws for the length re- quired. Square Dia- mond Net- ting. (For illustration see Page 86.) No. 45.— This is the same stitch as the diamond pattern, only it is worked so as to form a series of squares in- stead of dia- monds. Put on 2 stitches for the corner, and at the end of each row increase a stitch by working 2 stitches in the last stitch of last row. The pattern is formed by passing the thread once round the mesh for the small holes, and twice round the mesh for the large holes. In process of working be careful that a long stitch always comes under a short stitch, first one and then the other alternately. A square suitable for guipure netting or an oblong piece may be made in this way, and afterward darned in any of the stitches shown on following pages. Bring the last corner to a 1 oint by taking 2 loops together at the end of every row, and fasten off neatly and securely. " AA/yVVs v VVVYVS' \ A A, A A AAA // MX.!/' "V-A.Af Y\f\ No. 46. — Diagonal Netting with Crossed Loops. Diagonal Netting with Crossed Loops. No. 46. — To work this simple and effective pat- tern, begin by making a strip of plain netting, 14 loops in width, for the middle. When it is long enough for your purpose, take up all the loops on one side on a strong thread; fasten the work to the cushion again, and work 3 rows along the other edge in the following manner: First row. — Long loops, made by the thread be- ing passed three times in succession over the mesh. Second renv. — H ere 3 loops are so made as to cross each other; that is, you begin by putting your netting needle at first into the 3rd loop, counting from left to right, then into the 1st, and lastly into the mid- dle one of the three, so that the right loop leans to the left and the left one to the right. Third row. — One plain loop in each of the loops of the previous row. You now draw out the thread run in on the other side, and run it in through the loops last made, in order to make three rows again, as above describ- ed, on the low- er edge. When this is done you begin the points. Work in 14 loops with the small mesh, working 3 rows and narrowing once in each row, by leaving the last loop unworked; now make the long loops in the center of the point for the crossed design as shown in the heading, and, after crossing the loops, finish the points as shown in the picture. Break the thread and begin the next point as shown in the illustration. Netted edgings may be made of linen with pat- terns afterwards embroidered upon them in wash silk, which shows well upon a linen foundation. f \ / \ r \f « A/\A,. K'\/\/\/\ vvvv 88 TATTING AND NETTING. Rose Netting in No. 47. — This design is Stripes. suitable for curtains, First row. — Net quite plain over a mesh about a third of an inch in width. Second row. — Net over a knitting needle thus: First draw the 1st long loop through the 2nd, and net it, then draw the 2nd long loop through the 1st and net it. Repeat throughout the row. No. 48 clearly illustrates the mode of working this row. The 1st loop is shown drawn through the 2nd, ready for netting, at the lower middle of illustration, and the arrow represents the needle inserted ready for working the 2nd loop. The 1st and 2nd rows are repeated alternately for the required length, loop- ing the stitches so that the pattern is reversed. Diamond Pattern. No. 50. — This design is suitable for foundations of shawls, or for stripes for clouds, antimacassars, etc. First row. -Plain. Second row. — Work two loops into a stitch, draw the next loop rather longer, and repeat to the end of the row. Third row. — One stitch into each loop of last row. Fourth row. — Work a stitch through two loops together under the two loops worked into a stitch in second row. No. 47. — Rose Netting in Stripes. No. 48. — Detail of Rose Netting. antimacassars, shawls, etc. It consists of stripes of rose-netting which are worked ac- cording to the directions given for No. 49. Four pat- terns of the rose-netting are alternated with six rows of plain netting. The plain stripes are darned in small squares or diamonds (see design). Rose Netting, with Detail. Nos. 48, 49, and 52. — No. 48 shows the detail of rose-netting; and No. 52, rose-netting with ribbon velvet run in at each fifth pattern ; the rose-netting is darned with silk or wool of a color contrasting with that of the netting. This pattern would make very pretty shawls netted with white wool, darned with pink, maize, or blue silk, and having narrow black ribbon velvet run in as seen at No. 52. Repeat to the end of the row. Repeat from the first row. The double loops are worked across with a needle and cotton, as shown in the upper part of illustration. No. 49. — Rose Netting. No. 50. — Diamond Pattern. TATTING AND NETTING. 89 Diagonal Netting. No. 51. — Commence with an even number of stitches. First row — Insert the point of the needle in the 1st loop and draw the 2nd loop downwards through it; net a stitch in the 2nd loop, and then mi 1 stitch in the 1st loop, not twisting the loops at all; insert the point of the needle in the 3rd loop, and draw the 4th loop downwards through it; net a stitch in the 4th loop, and then a stitch in the 3rd loop; and continue crossing the loops and netting them, to the end of the row. No. 51. — Diagonal Netting. Second row. — Net the 1st loop plain; with the point of the needle pass the 3rd loop downwards through the 2nd loop, net a stitch in the 3rd loop, and then net a stitch in the 2nd loop; then pass the 5th loop downwards through the 4th loop, and net it, and then net the 4th loop, and pro- ceed in like man- ner to the end of the row, where net the last stitch plain. Third nn^. — Same as the second row. Fourth rcm<. — Work same as the first row. Repeat from the first row. It will be found that the 2nd and 3rd rows have each an edge stitch, No. 53. — Star NETTING. but that the 1st and 4th rows have not. The pattern runs diagonally across from edge to edge. Star Netting, with Detail. Nos. 53 and 54. — First row. — One double and No. 52. — Rose Netting, with Ribbon Run In in Every Fifth Pattern. (For Description eee Nos. 48, 49 and 52, Page 88.) one plain stitch alternately with a No. 12 knitting needle. Second row. — Net plain with a mesh a third of an inch wide. Third row. — Draw one stitch of second row through long loop of first row, net it with a short stitch, draw the next loop through the same long No. 54.— Detail of Star Netti.vo. loop of first row, and net it with a long stitch (/'. e., cotton twice round the mesh). Repeat the second and third rows for length required. 90 TATTING AND NETTING. Round Netting. No. 55. — Round netting much resembles plain No. 55. — Round Netting. netting in appearance and manner of working, but by a trifling difference in the method of passing the needle through the loop the stitches become a little twisted, and a closer and rounder looking stitch is produced. It may be commenced with any number of stitches. When these are put on the foundation string, and the mesh is with- drawn and placed in position ready for working the second row, proceed as fol- lows: Form the loop on the fingers in the usual manner, and pass the needle upwards through the loop encircling the third and second fingers and between the mesh and the forefinger, but not taking up the netted stitch of last row; retain the position of the thumb and fingers, and loop while you draw the needle so far up as to bring the thread from it close under the little finger; turn the needle round, and insert it through the stitch of preceding row downwards over the mesh, the thread being to the right of the needle; draw through, and let loops slip one by one from the fingers; draw knot in firmly, and con- tinue with every stitch in the same manner. Open Twisted Netting. No. 56. — Two meshes will be required. Cast an even number of stitches upon the founda- tion string, and begin by doing 2 rows of plain netting with the smallest mesh. Third row. — With the largest mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop of the preceding row. Fourth roiu. — With the small mesh, place the thread in position on the fingers as usual, and pass the needle upwards through the loop encircling the 3rd and 2nd fingers, and between the mesh and the forefinger, and now draw the needle up, carefully re- taining the position of the thumb and finger and loop, while you draw the needle far enough up to bring the thread from it close under the little finger; insert the needle in the 1st loop of the preceding row, and to produce the coiled appearance shown in the engraving (No. 56), twist the loop twice from right to left round itself, then release the loops from the fingers and tighten the knot. Work to the end of the row similarly. Fifth row. — Plain netting with the small mesh. Sixth row. — Plain netting with the large mesh. Seventh row. — With the small mesh, draw the is,t loop of previous row upwards through the 2nd loop of the same row, and net a stitch in it; then look through the 1st loop, the upper part of which is now secured in the knot you have just formed, and you will see a portion of the 2nd loop crossing along just below; draw this part of the 2nd loop up through the little opening under the knot, and net a stitch in it, and entwine every 2 loops together in this manner to the end of the row. No. 56. — Open Twisted Netting. Eighth row. — Plain netting with the small mesh. Repeat from the 4th row for the length required, and break off at the termination of the 5th row. TATTING AND NETTING. 1)1 Bunch Netting. No. 57. — Procure meshes of 3 different sizes Begin with any number of stitches divisible by 3, and allow 2 stitches over at the end of the row to bring the pattern in nicely. First row. — Plain netting on middle-sized mesh. >S end row. — The same. Third row. — With the largest mesh, net 2 stitches plain, net 5 stitches in the next loop, and repeat, ending with 2 plain stitches. Fourth row. — With the smallest mesh, net 1 stitch in every loop of the preceding row. Fifth row. — Plain netting, with smallest mesh. Sixth row. — Plain netting, with largest mesh. Seventh row. — With middle mesh, net plain the two first loops of last row, * take up the 5 ne\t loops, all on the needle, and net them together as 1 stitch (these are the 5 loops which were before increased), net the 2 next consecutive loops plain, and repeat from *. Eighth row. — Plain netting, with same mesh. Repeat the pattern from the 3rd row. A pleasing variation can be made in this pattern by working the second line of "bunches "in intermediate positions between those made in the first line. ' Grecian Netting. No. 58. — Two meshes of different size are necessary for the production of this pattern. For the smaller of the two meshes select a steel knitting ing about a third of an inch in width. Cast upon the foundation string any even number of stitches. First row. — Plain netting, with the large mesh. X< K 57. — Bi'Nf. Xhi rtHo. needle No. 9, and for the other a wooden needle No. 6, or what is better, a flat bone mesh, measur- No. 58. — Grecian Netting. Second row. — With the small mesh, draw the 1st loop of previous row upwards through the 2nd loop of the same row, and net a stitch in it; then look through the 1st loop, the upper part of which is now secured in the knot you have just formed, and you will see a portion of the 2nd loop crossing along just below; draw this part of the 2nd loop up through the little opening under the knot, and net a stitch in it; entwine every two loops together in this manner to the end of the row. Third row. — Plain netting, with the large mesh. Fourth row. — With the small mesh, net a plain stitch in the 1st loop of previous row, then draw the 2nd loop upwards through the 3rd loop, and net a stitch in it, and next bring the 2nd loop up through the little opening under the knot, and net a stitch in it and con- tinue, finishing with a plain stitch at the end of the row. Fifth row. — Plain netting, with the large mesh. Repeat from the 2nd row. The pat- tern is complete upon the termination of the 3rd row. Another form of Grecian netting is a simple continuation of the 1st and 2nd rows only, by which means the large holes are produced one over the other in a straight line. Whichever way it be done, Grecian netting is a favorite pattern for purses, mittens, neck-handkerchiefs, shawls, curtains, and numberless other articles. 92 TATTING AND NETTING. Looped Netting. No. 59. — Put on as many stitches as required for the width of the work. First row. — Thread twice round the mesh, and net 1 stitch, then with the thread once round the mesh net 2 more stitches in • the same place; repeat this in every loop to the end of the row. Every suc- ceeding row is the same, inserting the needle under the long loop of last row, and missing the 2 short loops. A very lacy-looking pattern results. Loose-Loop Pattern. No. 60. — First and Second rows. — Plain netting. Third row. — Two plain loops, place the working thread as usual, over the mesh, and pass the needle close over the nearest knot of the last row but one from underneath perpendicularly, put the thread round the mesh again, and let the needle go again through the same stitch from underneath upwards, and then work a common stitch in the next stitch of the last row, so that the thread is put three times round the mesh as shown in the lower right hand corner of No. 59. — Looped Netting. clusters of loops come between the clusters of third row. Design in Long and Crossed Loops. No. 61. — This design is worked with knitting silk and Shetland wool or floss. First and Second rows. — Work in plain netting with silk and a mesh a quarter of an inch in breadth. Third row. — With doubled wool and a half-inch mesh, work two stitches into one loop, and one stitch into each of the next two loops. Repeat from the beginning of the row. Fourth row. — Take the long loop at the left of a short loop, pass it through the short loop, and net it with silk and the smaller mesh; take the next long loop and pass it through the same short loop, and net it. Repeat to the end of the row. into each loop of last Fifth row. — Oae stitch row. Sixth row. — With double wool and the large mesh net one stitch into each loop of last row. Seventh and Eighth rows. — With silk and the small mesh work like fifth row. No. 60. — Loose-Loop Pattern. No. 61. — Design in Long and Crossed Loops. illustration. Repeat from the beginning of the row. Ninth and Tenth rows. — Like third and fourth Fourth and Fifth rows. — Plain. rows. Sixth row. — Like third row, working so that the Eleventh row. — Work this row like the fifth row. TATTING AND NETTING. 98 Oriel Netting. No. 62. — Commence with any even number of stitches. First row. — This row is worked in plain netting. Second row. — ( ) ne plain stitch and 1 long stitch worked alternately. Third raw. — Long stitch netting, that is with thread twice round the mesh to every stitch. Four tli row. — Draw the first loop of last row upwards through the 1st long loop of the 2nd row, and net a plain stitch in it; draw the 2nd loop of last row up in the same place, and net in it a plain stitch, and continue. Repeat the last 2 rows for the length desired. No. 62.— Oriel Netting. Fancy Netting. No. 63. — Patterns of this kind are made by netting the meshes together in regular sequence, and tak- ing up as many meshes as you have netted to- gether, or vice versa. You may increase and de- crease in the same rows, or at intervals of so many rows. Two sizes of thread should be used for this pat- tern. Begin by 3 rows of plain netting with the finer thread over the small mesh, followed by 1 row 1 row, with 2 loops in every 1, so that the number of loops remains the same. These are followed by 3 rows of plain netting with the fine thread on the small mesh. Then work again with the larger mesh. The design may be made as wide as desired, and is pretty as an in- sertion. Stripe Netting. No. 64. — This re- quires an even num- ber of stitches. First row. — Net a plain row. Second row. — Miss the 1st stitch, net the 2nd, then the 1 st, and so on till the end of the row. These two rows form the pattern. Honeycomb- Netting. No. 65. — An even number of stitches are needed for this pattern. First row. — Plain netting. Second row. — Net the 2nd stitch, then the 1st, next the 4th, then the 3rd; work thus to the end of the row. Third row. — Plain. Fourth row. — Net a plain stitch; begin the pat- tern by netting the 3rd stitch, then the 2nd, next the 5th, then the 4th; end with a plain stitch, and continue to the end of the row. Repeat from 1st row as many times as may be necessary to \f\(\r\r\f\f\f\f\i\f\ A / \ / \ A / \ A A/\A A ) \ A /\ /\j\ A fS/S/S A a I.A.A/\AA • A A / \ A A A / w \ A ,- . A/v'V x> A/ \A Ax A,' \ A / \ A A A A A / v / \ A , I A A A A A l. — Fancy Nbttino. No. 64. — Stripe Netting. No. 65. — Honeycomb Netting. of the coarser thread over the large mesh; then, make the work as deep as desired. Either of the with the coarse thread over the large mesh, make 1 two designs last described will form pretty founda- row, in which you net every 2 loops together, and tions for shawls, capes, center-pieces, etc. 94 TATTING AND NETTING. No. 66. Leaf Netting. -For leaf netting, commence with any No. 66. — Leaf Netting. Tenth row. — Plain. Repeat from the 3rd row for the length required, and leave off after doing the 6th row. Count the stitches in the plain row after every leaf, to ascertain that none have been increased or diminished. From its extreme lightness this pat- tern is pretty for a veil, for mittens, and for a variety of other purposes. Spike Netting. No. 67. — Cast any uneven number of stitches upon the foundation string. First row. — Plain netting. Second row. — Work 4 stitches into the first loop, and 1 stitch in the next loop; 4 stitches in the next, and 1 stitch in the next, and so on alter- nately, and end with 4 stitches in the last loop of the row. Third row. — Plain netting, gather- ing together the group of increased stitches as one. Fourth row. — One plain stitch in the first loop, and 1 spike of 4 stitches in the next loop, and repeat. The spike stitches are to come between the groups of spike stitches in the second row. Fifth row. — Plain, gathering the 4 number of stitches divisible by 4, and allow 2 stitches over at the end to bring the pattern in nicely. Net 2 plain rows. Third row. — Net 3 stitches in the first loop, 3 in the next, * 2 consecutive stitches plain, 3 in the next loop, and 3 in the next, and repeat from *. Fourth row. — Gather together on the needle the first 5 loops of last row, pick- ing them up in rotation from left to right; these are the increased stitches of last row, and they form the "leaf "; knot them together as 1 stitch, net 3 consecu- tive stitches plain, and repeat, ending with a "leaf" and 1 plain stitch. Fifth row. — Plain netting. Sixth row. — Plain. Seventh row. — Net the first 2 loops plain, * do 3 stitches in the next loop, 3 in the next, then 2 stitches plain, and repeat from *. Eighth row. — Net 2 stitches plain to begin, * pick up the next 5 loops on the needle and knot them together as 1 stitch, net 3 consecutive stitches plain, repeat from * to the end of the row, where there will be 2 stitches to net instead of 3. The "leaves" in this row are formed in intermediate positions between those already done. Ninth row. — Plain netting. No. 67. — Spike Netting. spike stitches together as one. Repeat the pattern from the second row. This is a pretty pattern for almost any article of netting. TATTING AND NETTING. Spiim k N etting. No. 6S. — Two meshes are required for this. Commence with an even number of stitches, and work 3 rows of plain netting with the smallest mesh. Fourth row. — With the large mesh net 1 stitch in each loop of last row. Fifth row, — Also with the large mesh, take up the 2nd loop; and net a stitch; then the 1 st loop, and net a stitch; next the 4th loop, then the 3rd loop, and so on, doing alternately a stitch forward and a stitch backward to the end of the row, and so crossing the stitches that they present the appearance shown in engraving No. 68. Now work 3 rows of plain netting with the smallest mesh, and repeat the pattern from the 4th row. Double Leaf Netting. No. 69. — This much resembles leaf netting, but the leaves are double, and therefore more distinct. Cast upon the foundation string any number of stitches divisible by 4, with 2 stitches over at the end to allow for uniform- ity of pattern. Work 2 rows of plain netting. Third and Fifth raws. — Net 3 stitches in the first loop, 3 in the next loop, * then do 2 consecutive stitches plain, 3 in the next loop, and 3 in the next, and repeat from *. Fourth and Sixth rows. — Gather together on the needle the first 5 loops of last row, and knot them together as 1 stitch, net 3 stitches plain, *pick Seventh and Eighth rows. — Net these rows plain. Ninth and Eleventh rows. — Net 2 consecutive stitches plain to begin, * net 3 in the next loop, 3 No. >;s. — Spider Netting. up the next 5 loops together and knot them as 1 stitch, net 3 stitches plain, and repeat from *, and end the row with a "leaf" and 1 plain stitoh. No. 69. — Double Leaf Netting. in the next, then 2 stitches plain, and repeat from *. Tenth and Twelfth rows. — Net 2 stitches plain, * pick up on the needle the next 5 loops together, and knot them as 1 stitch, net 3 consecutive stitches plain, repeat from *, and at the end of the row there will be 2 stitches to net plain. Thirteenth and Fourteenth rows. — Net these rows plain. Repeat the pattern from the 3rd row. When a sufficient length is worked, break off after working the 8th row. Beaded Netting. (No Illustration.) Netting may be beaded as follows: Take a fine, long darning needle, and having threaded it with a sufficient length of silk, pick up a bead and slip it along close up to the mesh, net a stitch in the next loop as usual and then pass the needle again through the bead in the upward direction, thus bringing it on the knot; pick up another bead and repeat to end of row. In forming a pattern pick up 4 or 6 beads at a time, according to size of mesh; slip them down to last knot made, and net a stitch in next loop as usual. In the next row more beads are picked up, and the beads of last row are divided by the knot, so that 2 beads on 3 beads come on each side of the knot. Designs in diamonds, crosses, lozenges etc., may thus be formed. 96 TATTING AND NETTING. Mosaic Netting. No. 70. — Cast upon the foundation string any even number of stitches. First rotv. — Net the first loop in the ordinary No. 70. — Mosaic Netting. manner, make the next stitch a long stitch by twisting the thread twice round the mesh (to do this twist the thread once round the mesh before encircling the thread round the fingers; the other twist is given in process of drawing up the knot), and continue 1 plain stitch and 1 long stitch to the end of the row. Second row. — Plain netting. The stitches of last row being uneven in length, the stitches of this row will naturally draw uneven also. Third row. — Work alternately 1 long stitch and 1 plain stitch in this manner; draw the first loop of last row upwards through the first long loop of the first row, and net a long stitch in it; the pressure arising from this action causes the 2nd loop of last row to come partially up in the same place; draw it up a little more prominently, and net a plain stitch in it, and proceed to the end of the Fourth row. — Plain netting. Fifth row.— Begin with 1 plain stitch in the first loop of last row, then continue 1 long stitch and 1 plain stitch alternately, drawing the loops of the 4th row up through the long loops of the 3rd row, in the same manner as instructed for the work- ing of the 3rd row; end the row with 1 long stitch in the last loop. Sixth row. — This row is worked in plain netting. Repeat from the 3rd row for the remainder of the work. Open-Work and Darned Stripe. No. 71. — Work seven plain rows over a small mesh. Eighth row. — With a mesh a size larger, work one stitch into each stitch of previous row. Ninth row. — With the same mesh net two stitches together throughout. Tenth row. — Net two stitches into one through- out. Repeat from the beginning of the pattern. The darning is worked with wool or silk of a contrasting color (see design). Netted Foundation Interlaced with a Needle and Thread. No. 72. — The foundation consists of plain rows of netting worked with a contrasting color or material from end to end; the mode of working is too clearly illustrated to need description. The pattern is varied by each row being darned as seen in the engraving, where the detail is shown. Stripe for Shawls, etc. No. 73. — This design is worked with single zephyr. First and Second rows — Plain over a small mesh. Third row. — With a mesh double the size, and No. 72. — Netted Foundation Inter- laced with a Needle and Thread. No. row. 71. — Open-Work and Darned Stripe. No. 73. — Stripe for Shawls, etc. doubled wool, one stitch into each stitch of last row. Fourth row. — With the small mesh and single wool, plain netting. Fifth row. — Like third row. Sixth and Seventh rows.-~L\ke first and second rows. TATTING AND NETTING. 97 STITCHES AND DESIGNS FOP^ DAMNING NETTING. The engravings on this and following pages are so accurate in detail that is not necessary to pro- vide descriptions for their development. The plain darning stitch is familiar to every one who has ever wielded the darning needle, and is clearly depicted edgings and decorations in general. Linen thread and linen floss are principally used in making net- ting that is to be darned Darned or, as it is often called guipure, netting is suitable for many pur- poses— for the decoration of personal or household No. 1. No. 4. No. 3. Linen Stitch: Formation op a Corner. No. 2. No. 5. No. 6. No. 7. No. 8. No. 9. No. 10. No. 11. Nos. i to 7.— Linen Darning Stitch. Nos. 8 to 11.— Plain Darning Stitch. on this page. Linen stitch is also here faithfully shown, No. 3 making the method of turning a cor- ner a matter easy to accomplish. Loop darning is pretty for open patterns, while stars, leaves, wheels, rosettes etc., are exceedingly ornamental in making linen, draperies, curtains, or in fact anything that can be trimmed with lace. In other following de- partments may be seen various articles of darned netting, and others which may be further beauti- fied by darning them in handsome patterns. 98 TATTING AND NETTING. No. 12. No. 13. No. 14. No. 19. No. 15. No. SO. No. 23. No. 24. No. 22. Nos. 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, It, 18, 20 and 23.— Loop Darning. No. 16. No. 17. mz^kSkSsAsto No. 18. No. 21. No. 25. Nos. 19, 21, 22, 24 and 25.— Fancy Darning in Loops, "Wheels, Stars, Leaves, Etc. No. 26.— Button-Hole and Picot Stitches. TATTING AND NETTING. 99 No. 27. Loop Stitch Completed No. 28. Loop Stitch (Fikst and Second Courses ok the Thread), No. 30. No, 31. No. 32. No. 33. No. 34. Nos. 28, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34 and 35._Fanct Stars with Details. No. 35. No. 36. No. 37. N'' s 36, 37 and 38.— Point d'Angleterre Rosettes. No. 38. 100 TATTING AND NETTING. ■■ HI No. 40. No. 44. No. 47. No. 41. Nos. 39 to 43. — Stak Darning. No. 45. No. 43. No. 43. No. 46. NO. 48. No. 49. Nos. 44 to 49. — Fancy Darning. No. 50.— Button-Hole Edge tor Netted Lace. TATTING AND NETTING. LOJ fancy Dg<;ign<;, With illusthatgD OeTAiu; DAMNED OH GUIPU^e NGTTING. FOI^ No. 8. No. 11. No. 12. Ksynxifxi Ipkr; [jI-Ijl! No. 6. No. 4 No. 3. No. 9. -jr &&* -M* 'im No. 7. Nos. l to V. — Fancy De- sign, with Details. No. 10. Nos. 8 to 10. — Fancy De- sign, with Details. No. 13. No. U. Nos. 11 to 14. — Fancy Design, with Details. No. 15. No 10. Nos. 15 and 16. — Fancy Design and Detail. No. 17. — Lea? Darning. 102 TATTING AND NETTING. No. 80. No. 21. No. 22. No. 26. No. 29. No. 32. No. 30. No. 19. No. 83. No. 27. No. 31. No. 24. No. 25. No. 28. •♦*?i?^5fi*r*« f^««e? ?. wa^r^KH p:%S«K^^'^ !»:«»-fe» - >y- xfi :4i* ■'i* •!»« No. 33. No. 34. Nos. 18 to 35. — Five Fancy Designs, with Details. No. 35. TATTING AND NETTING ■ 103 No. 37. No. 38. No. 39. No. 40. No. n, Nos. 36 TO 43.— Fancy Design, with Actual and Suggested Details. No. 41. No. 42. No. 43. In the second and subsequent rows the needle Ground of Geometrical Figures. has to pass twice under the ang)es that were first No. 44. — This pattern, quite different from fol- formed, in order that, over the whole surface, all lowing ones, consists of simple geometrical lines, the corners may be equally covered and connected. Ground Worked with Squares and Wheels. Nos. 45, 49 and 59. — A ground very often met with in old embroidered netting, consists of diag- onal lines of squares closely filled with darning No. 44.— Ground of Geometrical Figures. Fasten the thread to a knot of the netting, then carry it, always diagonally, under three other knots, and repeat this 3 times, after which, carry it once round the bar of the netting to fasten it, and back again to the knot which it has already encircled, and from thence begin a new square. Owing to your having always to bring the thread back to the knot whence the next square is to begin, you will have 4 threads on two of the sides and 6 on the two others. No. 45. — Ground Worked with Wheels. stitches, alternating with diagonal lines of squares, each with a small wheel in the middle. In No. 59, the darning stitches and the wheels, 104 TATTING AND NETTING. which are both worked with the same material, each require 4 squares of the netting. Larger expanses of netting may also be entirely filled with wheels (No. 49). To make a really Ground Worked with Cross-Stitches (in One Size of Thread.) No. 48. — This pattern, similar to No. 50, consists of three diagonal rows of stitches, worked to and fro, with cross-stitches made over them. You may also begin with the cross-stitches in the fine thread, and work the triple stitches over them in the coarse. Ground Worked in two Sizes of Thread. No. 50. — Carry the coarse thread, from right to left, under the first knot of the netting, and then under the next, from left to right. This has to be done twice, to and fro, so that the squares of the netting are edged on both sides with a double layer of threads. When the whole foundation has been thus covered, take the fine thread and make loop stitches in the squares between the other rows of stitches, passing the needle for that purpose over the double stitch. No. 46. — Ground Worked with Darning and Cokd Stitches. No. 47. — Ground Worked in Darning and Loop Stitch. satisfactory grounding of this kind, you should be careful always to carry your thread over the bars of the netting and under the threads that are stretched diagonally across. Ground Worked with Darning and Cord Stitches. No. 46. — Patterns, executed chiefly in darning stitches, in a comparatively coarse thread, present a closer and heavier appearance than those we have been describing. Here, every other square of the netting is filled, as closely as possible, with stitches; the empty squares between are intersected diag- onally with cord threads. Ground Worked in Darning and Loop Stitch. No. 47. — The darning stitches are made in the coarse thread, over 4 squares of the netting, in a hori- zontal direction, with loop stitches in the fine thread made between them, over the same number of squares. No. 48. — Ground Worked with Cross-Stitches. No. 49. — Ground op Squares and Wheels. (For Description see Page 10S.) Lastly, intersect the loop stitches with straight threads, and pass the needle each time through the knot of the netting. TATTING AND NETTING. 105 Ground with Wheels and Loop Stitch. No. 51. — Begin with the coarse thread and finish all the wheels first, making them over each 4 threads of the netting; then with the fine thread you make loop stitches between them. Fanck Ground (Worked in Stitchi s Placed One Above the Other.) No. 52. — Cover a whole row of squares with cross- stitches, and leave 3 rows of squares empty. When you have a sufficient Dumber of rows of cross-stitches, take a long needle and pass it upwards from below, and from right to left, under the two bars of the third upper square; then pass downwards to the first square of the 3 bottom rows and under the bars from right to left, so as again to leave 3 squares between the fresh stitches. The next row of stitches is made in the same manner, so that the stitches are not only set con- trary ways, but reciprocally cover each other. Fancy Ground (Worked in Horizontal Lines.) No. 53. — Make half cross-stitches over 4 squares I. \ tt iced Ground. (For DliutnMloD ne Pag* 100.) No. 55. — Begin by running the thread to and fro, under two vertical bars and over three No. 50.- -Ground Worked in Two Sizes of Thread. No. 51. — Ground with Wheels and Loop Stitch. horizontal ones. When the ground is entirely covered, carry your thread from right to left, under the bars over which the first rows of thread are crossed; then take it over the long crosses, that correspond to 5 squares of netting, and pass it in the same line under the bars of the netting. In returning, the long stitches cross each other, over the stitches of the first row. Ground in Russian Stitch. (For Illustration see Page 106.) No. 56. — Pass the thread from left to right, under a bar of the netting, carry it downwards over 4 squares, and pass it again, from left to right, under the bar, then upwards, again over 4 squares of No. 52. — Fancy Ground. No. 63. — Fancy Ground. of netting, by passing the thread alternately over and under 3 knots, and under 3 squares of the net- ting. In the 2nd row, cross the threads over those of the 1st row, as is shown in our engraving. Ground Worked in Cross and Darning Stitci:. No. 54. — You begin by making the close darn- ing stitches, and then proceed to the cross-stitches. To give them the right shape, finish all the rows of stitches one way first; in the subsequent rows that cross the first ones, you introduce the thread be- tween the stitches that are first crossed. netting, and so on. The stitches of the next rows are made in the same manner; you have only to see that the loops formed by the stitches all come on the same line of knots. This is a very handsome founda- tion for covering books, sofa-pillows, cushions or any fancy article of a kindred description. No. 54. — Ground Worked in Cross and Darning Stitch. 106 TATTING AND NETTING. Ground of Embroidered Netting. No. 57. — Netting embroidered with two sizes of No. 55. — Latticed Ground. No. 56. — Ground in Russian Stitch. (For Descriptions of Nos. 55 and 56 see Page 105.) Ground Worked in two Sizes of Thread. No. 58. — These stitches, are copied in part from an old and most curious piece of embroidered net- ting. They may be worked with rope silk and embroid- ery silk, the former being used for the darning and the almond-shaped stitches between, and the latter for the button-hole stitches. When- ever two sizes of thread are used for one pattern, all the stitches in the coarse thread should be put in first, and those in the fine, last. The result of using two threads is almost invariably pleasing. "No. 57. — Ground of Embroidered Netting. thread possesses many advan- tages in the way of effectiveness, and also of durability; but it is only in a piece of work of a certain size that it is possible really to judge of the excellent effect produced by the use of two threads of different sizes. Small pieces are not advisable. The principal lines of the pattern shown at No. 57 are worked in a very coarse thread like rope silk, while the loop stitches are in finer size, say, wash embroidery silk. No. 58. — Ground Worked in Two Sizes of Thread. No. 59. — Ground of Squares and Wheels. — (For Description see Page 103.) TATTING AND NETTING. L07 EDGINGS, INSERTIONS, FRINGES AND SCOLLOPS The designs in this department will lie found useful in decorating personal or household linen, or for trimming any of the dainty hits of lace or lawn used for hand- kerchiefs, doileys, mats, etc. Netted Scollop. No. i. — Make 12 stitches or loops over the foundation loop with a large bone needle ; then, still using the same mesh, make 2 stitches in each of the loops just made. Next make 4 rows with a steel needle, then 1 row with the bone needle. Now make 1 row of loose puffs, using the bone needle, working thus : Make 1 plain stitch, then in the next loop make the puff as follows: Work the first stitch as usual, then pass the thread over the mesh and up through the stitch last worked in, 3 times ; then pass the thread around the fingers as usual, and insert the needle between the 1st and 2nd loops of the last row, instead of through the 2nd loop; draw the knot as usual, and the puff will be formed. Make 1 plain stitch in the next loop, 1 puff in the next, and so on across the row. Next, 1 plain row with the bone needle, but leave the 3 loose loops of the puff free (see picture); then in every loop. Next, make 1 row with the steel needle, and 2 rows with the bone needle; then, 1 No. 1. -Netted Scollop. make another row of puffs like the first one; but have the puffs of this row come between the puffs in the other row. Next raw. — With the same mesh make 2 stitches No. 2— Netted Lace. row with the bone needle, and skip every other loop (see picture.) Netted Lace. No. 2. — Use crochet cotton or thread, and make 3 rows of plain netting over a rather small mesh, making it of the length desired for the trimming; then net n stitches, turn, and net 10 stitches, leaving the last one unnetted, which nar- rows the work. Continue in this way until you have but 1 loop on the mesh, and your point is com- pleted. Begin the next point by tying the thread into the next stitch in the 3rd row, and make all the points in the same way. Draw out the foundation thread and crochet 1 s. c. in each loop to form the heading. The edging may be made of very fine or coarse thread, silk or Kensington twine, and is pretty for trimming under- wear, aprons or the edges of scarfs or throws. It may be made deeper by making the points larger, in which case you work more loops over the mesh in the first row of the point before turning back ; or, if a smaller point be desired, make fewer loops to begin the point. In washing and doing up this lace, the points must be pulled into place with the fingers before the iron is applied, espe- cially if much starch has been used. But little starch is advisable, however, for netted laces. 108 TATTING AND NETTING. Vandyke Border. No. 3. — The foundation for this border is worked in the manner described for oblong netting (see ftSBISR _ IK— *r— *» " 1 - 1 - 1* a»M»-- — ,-* kJ,-t 1 -/". f U' /_,! i '--1 i :- f? f r 1 L( '' c -JSP 1 rail W-TOwrS^dlfc^ Pc >yiJ- feSM No. 3. — Vandyke Border. page 81.) Commence as usual, and increase at the end of every row till the width of the border, minus the scollop, is attained; then keep the upper edge straight, and increase at the end of every alternate row for the scollop. When brought to the requisite depth, omit netting 1 loop at the scol- lop end of every alternate row, and proceed in like Third row. — Work three stitches into one of pre- vious row, one stitch into each of two successive stitches. Repeat throughout the row. Fourth ro7t>. — Plain working through the clusters of three stitches together as one stitch. Fifth row. — Plain. Sixth row. — Like third row, working the clusters of three stitches between those of the third row. Seventh row. — Like fourth row. Eighth row. — Work two stitches together below the clusters of sixth row, work one into all the other stitches. Ninth row. — Work over a mesh rather more than half an inch in width, four stitches into one stitch of last row, pass over three stitches, and repeat. Tenth row. — With the mesh first used, work one stitch into each of the four worked into one stitch, take the next loop, pass it through the center of the three stitches passed over in the previous row, work No. 5. — Netted Insertion. No. 4. — Trimming, with Thick Loops and Fan Edge. manner for the length required. Afterwards darn the pattern as shown in the engraving. Trimming, with Thick Loops and Fan Edge. No. 4. — First work two rows of plain netting. one stitch into it. Repeat from the beginning of the row. The mode of passing the long loop through the center of the three stitches is clearly shown by the thin line in the design. Netted Insertion. No. 5. — Use a steel needle of medium size for the mesh, and make 5 rows. Then use a quarter- inch mesh and make 1 row; then use a coarse bone needle for the 3rd mesh, and make 1 row, putting your needle through 2 loops at once; then with the same mesh, make 1 row plain, putting 1 stitch in every loop. Next use the quarter-inch mesh and put 2 stitches in every loop; then make 6 rows with the mesh first used. This insertion is very pretty for making scarfs, with strips of the netting alternating with strips of ribbon. Very pretty tidies may be made of it; and it can be used for decorating underclothing, yokes, baby garments, center-pieces, scarfs, curtains, draperies, book covers, etc. TATTING AND NETTING. 109 Netted Edging. No. 6. — Make as many Stitches over the founda- tion loop as the length of the work requires, using a large hone needle tor the mesh ; then with the same mesh, make 3 rows more. Next make 4 rows with a coarse steel needle for a mesh, then make the fancy stripe thus: Use the large bone needle for a mesh, and work 1 row ; then, with the steel needle, work 1 row in the following way: Pass the thread over the fingers and mesh in the regular way; next pass the needle through the loop on the fingers as usual; then pass the 1st loop through the 2nd, the 2nd through the 1st, and the 1st through the 2nd, and tie in the usual way; stitches left between the loops of the other row, so that the 2 In >ps o( netting cross each other. In the third row. the knots are again made first into the loops of the first row; then those in the XXXXXAO0 xxxxxx)*• m ft ft*ft .'«- •'• • •»>•'••• • •*«.■, *>• •'« •'• ft • ft ■ • ft • ft ft ft ft'ft ♦*• •> ■'• •'• •*« •*• •'• ft ft •** • « » t ft ft • * •'• •*• » '« •*• • « ••»'-• ft ft •'• . 1.I.IJ I I U I U J J — L..J, I 1 ,1 LL .1.1 iill.it No. 27. — Gcipbre Insertion. (For Suggestions for Nos. 27 and 29, see No. 10, Page 110.) stitches over the foundation loop with a bone needle, then in the next row with a finer bone bone one. Next row, with the same mesh, work 2 loops together each time ; in the next row with the same mesh, make 2 stitches in every loop. Next make 1 row with the steel needle, then make the points by working back and forth, beginning with 6 loops; then in all of the remaining rows leave the last loop in each row unworked until the point is worked down to r loop; break the thread, tie in the first row of last point, and repeat for the remaining points. If at the end there are only 5 loops for the last point, make an extra stitch in the last loop when working first row. Draw up to form the scollop, tie tightly, then break the thread; work across the top to make a firm sewing-on edge in single crochet or slip stitches. 116 TATTING AND NETTING. Netted Border, with Fringe. No. 30. — This border is made of German knit- ting cotton, which is used double. Make 8 rows over a coarse bone needle ; then, with the thread doubled again, use a wider mesh and make 1 row plain. Next, make 3 rows with the 1st mesh, but twist each stitch. Then make another row with the wide mesh, then 3 more with the No. 30. — Netted Border, with Fringe. narrow mesh ; cut some of the cotton into the lengths desired for the fringe, and tie 8 strands into each loop. Crochet a cord and run it through the top row of loops. Kensington cord, silk or any preferred material may be used for this border. Netted Lace. No. 31. — This lace, as here pic- decoration of household or personal linen, or for trimming fancy articles for the bureau or toilet table. Make 12 stitches with a rather coarse bone needle, on the foundation loop, then, with a little smaller needle, make 2 stitches in every loop. Next, make 3 rows with a rather coarse steel needle, then 1 row with the bone needle, but in every other stitch put the thread over the mesh twice. Next row, use the quar- ter-inch mesh, and make 1 in every stitch; then make 1 row with the largest bone needle, and make 2 stitches in every loop. Draw up the work with the foun- dation thread to form the scollop, and tie it tightly. Netted Edging. No. 32. — Use two sizes of coarse, steel knitting- needles for the mesh-sticks. First row. — Use the largest mesh, and net 12 stitches over the foundation loop. Second row. — Use the same mesh and net 1 stitch in each loop. Third row. — Net 2 stitches in each loop, thus making 24 loops. Fourth row. — Net 1 stitch in each loop. No. 31. — Netted Lace. No. 32. — Netted Edging. tured, is made of knitting silk, but if desired it may be made of cotton or linen thread for the Fifth row. — Use the smaller mesh and begin by simply turning the thread once around the mesh; TATTING AND NETTING. 117 then make 2 stitches in the next loop; this, when slipped off the mesh, will make 1 long stitch and 2 short ones; re- peat this for the whole length of the row. Sixth rem'. — Work the same as last row, but work through the long loops only. Seventh row. — Net plain, working through the long loops. Eighth row. — Net plain, making one in every loop. Draw up the foundation thread and tie No. 34 firmly to form the scollop ; then make s. c. across the upper edge to make it firm for sewing on by. Design for Netted Guipure Insertion. No. 33. — Net a strip as long as desired, and 12 meshes wide. Then darn in the design seen Intersecting threads may be knotted in to vary the effect of the pattern. This kind of insertion, with No. 33. — Design fob Netted Guipure Insertion in the engraving (or any other design preferred) in the same manner that you darn drawn-work. -Netted Guipure Lace. an edging to match, is very popular for decorating curtains of scrim or muslin. Netted Guipure Lace. No. 34. — Net the foundation over a mesh- stick of medium size and of the width desired, work- ing diagonally across, and narrow- ing and widening as necessary to make the points. The darning pattern seen in the engrav- ing, or any other pre- ferred may be used. The lace is pretty for trimming cur- tains, lambrequins and table and bed linen, and should be made of linen thread, bleached or unbleached. When the founda- tion is netted, baste it into a frame. In this way the darning may be more easily and evenly done. The work may be nicely stiffened by pressing it under a cloth wet in borax water and wrung nearly dry. 118 TATTING AND NETTING. Ifl^^M^fii-. No. 35. No. 39. No. 36. No. 40. No. 37. No. 38. Nos. 35 to 41. — Designs in Darned or Guipure Netting (For Suggestions for Nos. 35 to 41, See No. 10, Page 110.) TATTING AND NETTING. 119 DoileVs, toilet sets, aats, Wheels, squares, etc. Like knitting and tatting, netting depends largely for effect upon the texture and size of the material from which it is made. Very fine cotton or linen produces the best results for toilet articles; coarser this a vine is feather-stitched. Linen lawn is prettiest for the centers; and when the work is completed, it may be made fresh and smooth by wetting a cloth in borax water, wringing it quite dry, placing it over the wrong side of the lawn and press- ing with a hot iron. The cloth must be damp enough to communicate suffi- cient moisture to the linen to erase the wrinkles. Cracker Doily. (No Illustration.) Cut the linen used for the center in a circle 7 inches in diameter, and hem it narrowly ; then make double cro- chets with 1 chain between, round the edge. Use Coats' No. 20 cotton, a rather coarse mesh Nos. 1 and 2. — Bureau Toilrt-Set. (nearly nch), crochet cotton is better for doileys and dining-table mats, etc., while silk or wool is best for articles of wear, such as shawls, capes, fascinators, etc., all of which may be designed by anyone who has learned to net. Bureau Toilet-Set. Nos. 1 and 2. — This is a very dainty toilet-set, and yet it is easily made. The set consists of five pieces — the large center mat seen at No. 1, and four smaller mats like the one seen at No. 2. The sizes of these articles must depend upon the size of the bureau or dressing-case they are to ornament. In the set illustrated the large mat is about five- eighths of a yard long and twelve inches wide, and the small mats are about eight inches in diameter. Each is very narrowly hemmed, and then a row of double crochets of pale-blue crochet silk are made around it over the hem. Then the netting is begun, one loop being made in every space made by the crochets. Six rows of plain netting complete the border of each mat. A plain row of feather- stitching is made with the silk around the center just where the crochets are inserted, and inside of No. 2. and net two stitches in every space formed by the i-chain; then make 5 more rows of the netting, putting 1 stitch in every loop; this gives the de- sired fulness. Stiffen the netting with borax water, and as it dries pull it into the position necessary to give a fluted effect. The cracker jar or dish is placed upon this doily, which lends a daintiness to the general effect that is very pleasing. A large doily of this description may be used under a cracked-ice bowl, a salad dish, a fruit basket or platter, or a bowl or shallow dish filled with flowers. Tiny ones may hold finger- bowls, bonbon dishes, or trays of olives or salted almonds, thus lending greater daintiness to the usual service of the modern table. 120 TATTING AND NETTING. Finger-Bowl Doily, with Netted Border. No. 3. — The doily illustrated by this engraving is made of linen lawn and netting. Make the center three and a half inches in diameter, hem narrowly, and use No. 20 Coats' cotton for the border. Use 3 sizes of mesh-sticks — the largest one quarter inch, one just a trifle smaller, and another about the size of a rather coarse steel knitting-needle. Net 137 stitches over the foundation loop (which should be large enough to encircle the center); turn the work back and with the same mesh net 1 stitch in the first Ninth round. — Use the smallest mesh and make 1 stitch in every loop; cut the thread. Do not break the string on which the netting is made until the netting is sewed to the center. Take the linen and fold it in 4 quarters, and also quarter the netting; put each quarter of the netting to the quartered center, having the netting on top; take a stitch in the linen, then slip the needle through the knot on the foundation string, then another stitch in the linen, and so on until it is all sewed on; then cut the foundation thread and pull it out. This completes the mat. To make larger or smaller mats, cast on more or No. 3. — Finger-bowl Doily, with Netted Border. mesh, and 2 in the next; then repeat across. (If you work around in this row, the first stitches will slip.) Now be very careful that the work is not twisted on the foundation loop, and join the 2 ends; then work round and round with the smallest mesh until you have 4 rows. Sixth round. — Use the largest mesh and make 1 stitch in every loop. Seventh round. — Use the medium-sized mesh and work through 3 loops at once, for the entire round. Eighth round. — Use the largest mesh and put 6 stitches in the first loop, 1 in the next, and repeat to end of round. less stitches in beginning, and cut the center accord- ingly. The design given for this doily would be exceedingly pretty worked out in pale-blue, pale- pink, lavender, reseda, or yellow silk in a set of bureau mats. Doily, with Netted Border and Embroid- ered Center. (For Illustration pee Page 121.) No. 4. — The center of this pretty doily is made of fine linen. It was cut 4 inches in diameter and narrowly hemmed, after which a row of double TATTING AND NETTING. 121 crochets a little less than an eighth of an inch apart was worked round it over the htm. Then with a small mesh the netting was begun, one loop being worked into every space be- tween the crochets. Seven or eight rows of netting form a border of pretty width. Tiny sprays of flowers and foliage are embroidered in natural colors on the linen cen- ter with silk floss, with a decid- edly pretty effect. Doileys may be used for a variety of purposes. Single ones are pretty when placed on a bureau or under vases, jars, fancy boxes, etc., while in sets they are attractive accompani- ments for finger-bowls. Netted Tumbler Doily. No. 5. — In making this doily use a large mesh-stick, another half as large, and two very much smaller, the smallest one being as large as a medium- sized steel knitting-needle. Make 23 stitches over the foun- dation loop, using the largest form the circle, tying it firmly; then continue to net round and round. Next use the same mesh, but No. 5. — Netted Tumbler Doily. No. 4. — Doilt, with Netted Border and Embroidered Center (For Description ece Page 120.) mesh; then make 5 rows over the next size, but after making the 2nd row draw up the loop to net 2 stitches in each loop ; tnen, still using the same mesh, net 2 stitches in 1 loop, 1 in the next, and repeat. Then use the next to the smallest mesh, and make 2 rounds, putting 1 stitch in each loop. Now use the largest mesh and net 3 stitches in each loop; then use the next smaller mesh and net 3 rounds, putting 1 stitch in each loop in every round. Next use the small- est mesh and net 5 stitches, then skip 1 loop and repeat. In the next round you net 4 stitches, then skip 1 loop leaving the thread a little longer, and repeat. Continue net- ting, making 1 stitch less between the loops skipped, and also leaving the thread a little longer over the skipped loop, until there is only 1 loop between the long stitches; then break the thread. If the largest mesh is not obtainable, the same result may be reached by putting the thread once entirely around the smaller mesh in netting each stitch; then when the loops are slipped off the mesh they will be as long as they would be if they were made over a large mesh. 122 TATTING AND NETTING. Platter Doily, with Netted Border. No. 6. — The doily illustrated is made of hand- Now with a small mesh-stick work i row, crossing the row of meshes first made as follows: Knot the second mesh first; then the first mesh; No. 6. — Platter Doily, with Netted Border. some table linen, and is finished with a border of netting, which is also darned. The hem is feather-stitched. If preferred, the border may be simply netted and the darning omitted. Doileys of this kind are made in several sizes for the various platters used upon the dining-table, and may be round, oval, square or diamond-shaped, as preferred. Netted Border for Platter Doily. Nos. 7 and 8. — As this edging is netted into the hem of the doily de- scribed, the latter must first be cut, hemmed and feather-stitched. Then, in the manner represented by No. 7, knot enough meshes into the hem to make the 24 points seen in the picture. Each point has 13 meshes at its top. This will make 312 meshes which should be securely knotted into the edge of the doily. No. 1. — Detail of Netted Border for Platter Doily. then the fourth and then the third, and so on until you have worked entirely around the doily. TATTING AND NETTING. 123 Then make another row with the small mesh- stick; then a row with the larger stick, and then 2 rows with the smaller stick to complete the rows. the end of each row turn the work and go back to the opposite side where you leave one mesh un- knotted each time. Work in this manner to the tip No. 8. — Netted Border for Platter Doily. (For Description see Page I'M.) MM ■■■' *$£'Wi. ^1 W^: P No. 9. — Table-Mat or Center-Piece, witu Netted, Fluted Edge. Now, with the same stick, begin the points, using 13 meshes for each and working it separately. At of the point; fasten and break the thread and begin the next point. The solid pattern is simply darned in with linen floss. Table-Mat or Center-Piece, with Netted, Fluted Edge. No. 9. — Cut the circle for this mat from linen, making it 15 inches in diameter, and finish it with a narrow hem. Then make double crochets with 1 ch. between around the edge, taking each stitch through the depth of the hem. Use coarse cotton (about No. 10 Coats'), and net 2 stitches into every space made by the crochets; then make 8 more rows of the netting. Stiffen the netting with borax water and pull it into flutings or ruchings as represented in This mat will be found a very orna- mental setting for an ice-dish or for a floral piece. the picture. 124 TATTING AND NETTING. Netted Mat. stitches round the circle, and net 40 No. 10. — This mat is made of blue single zephyr, making two into bone knitting needle. Tie in a stitches round the steel needle, each one of the preceding row. Now make one plain row round the steel needle, /. e., a stitch into each stitch of last row ; one plain row round the bone needle; two plain rows round the steel needle; one stitch over the bone needle into 1st of last circle, * 8 stitches into 2nd of last circle, 4 stitches into next 4 of last circle; repeat from *. One plain stitch over the bone needle into 1st of last circle; * 1 plain stitch into half the 8 stitches (4 loops), 1 plain stitch into the other half, 4 plain stitches, repeat from *. One plain row over the steel needle. This fin- ishes the circle. Wheels of this kind tare very pretty done in fine cro- chet silk, and form a hand- some substitute for crocheted wheels. Done in ecru cot- ton, and arranged in a point at the end of a scrim bu- reau-scarf or throw, they are very pretty and effective. An edge of single crochets, or of single crochets and picots could be worked into the No. 10. — Netted Mat. and the figures in the points are darned in with white. Use a medium-sized mesh and another somewhat finer. Make 34 stitches over the foun- dation loop, using the large mesh; draw the foundation thread up and tie to form a circle; then continue by working round and round. Make 5 rounds with the fine mesh, then use the large mesh, and put 4 stitches in every other loop; but in 2 of the loops put 5 stitches, so as to make 70 loops in all. Next use the fine mesh and net 5 rows, putting 1 stitch in each loop; then make the points, of which there should be 7, thus: Work along 10 loops; turn, and work back in these loops, leaving the last one unworked; and continue in this way until there is but 1 loop, which will complete the point. Tie the worsted in the next loop, and make all the points in the same way. Darn in the figures in the points as shown in the picture. Netted Wheel, for Decorating Scarfs. No. 11. — Use a fine steel netting needle, and No. 36 spool thread. For mesh-sticks use a coarse steel knitting needle, and a medium-sized bone one. Fill the netting needle. Tie into a loop of thread, which should be pinned to the knee. Net 20 No. 11.— Netted Wheel, for Decorating Scarfs. last row of netting in the wheel with a good effect. Such wheels may also be appliqu^ed on to scarfs. TATTING AND NETTING. 125 Netted Mat. No. 12. — The mat from which this engraving was made is of almost cobweb fineness, and would be very pretty as a cover to a round toilet-cushion of some delicate shade of satin. Use quite fine cro- chet cotton for this mat and a large and small mesh. Mike 20 stitches over the foundation loop with the large mesh, and draw up the thread and tie tightly to form a circle; then make 4 rows with the small mesh. Next use the large mesh, and make 3 stitches in every mesh; then 4 more rows with the small mesh, another row with the large mesh, putting 4 with the small mesh; next, make r row with the large mesh, working in every loop, then 1 row with the same mesh, working through 4 loops at once, then another row with the same mesh, putting 4 stitches in every loop. Now make 1 row with the small mesh, putting 1 stitch in each loop. For the last row use the small mesh, but skip every other loop, and let the thread be a little loose around the mesh. Platter Doily, with Netted Border. (For Illustration see Page 126.) No. 13. — The doily illustrated is made of fine No 12. — Netted Mat. stitches in each mesh; then 4 rows with the fine mesh, putting 1 stitch in every loop. Next make 1 row with the large mesh, working through 4 loops at a time; then make 4 rows with the small mesh thus: put the thread over the needle twice to form a double stitch in the first loop, then make 3 single knots (thread over once) in the same loop, and re- peat this in all the loops in the next row. The double knots will pull out to make long loops, and work the same in these as in the last row, thus leav- ing the 3 single knots loose. Work the next 2 rows in the same way. Now make 1 row with the large mesh, putting 4 stitches in each loop, then 4 rows table linen and finished with a border of netted scollops and a row of feather-stitching. A fine hem is made all around the edge, and then the scollops are lapped as seen in the engraving, and sewed on by an over-and-over stitch. The feather- stitching is done last. Platter or table doileys may- be made of any size desired, the scollops in each instance being made of proportionate size. Detail for Border of Platter Doily. (For Illustration nee Page 126.) No. 14. — With a small mesh-stick and fine cro- 126 TATTING AND NETTING. chet cotton, cast up 34 meshes over a piece of the cotton. This piece of cotton is tied closely, when mesh-stick make 4 rows of netting, always turning the work at the end of each row. Then take the No. 13.— Platter Doily, with Netted Border. (For Description see Page 125.) No. 14.— Detail for Border op Platter Doily. (For Description see Page 125.) the netting is finished, to draw the work into larger stick and make 1 row of netting; turn. Then a scollop. Turn the work, and with a very fine over the smaller stick make 4 rows of netting. Tie TATTING AND NETTING. 127 the foundation cotton tightly lop. Having made a sufficien lap them as seen at No. 14, and sew them to the doily as seen at No. 13. Netted Finger- Bowl Doily. No. 15. — Net 32 stitches over the foun- dation loop thus: Net 1 plain, thread around the mesh only once, net 1 stitch in the next loop, and repeat for all the row. AText row. — Net plain; there will be 1 long and 1 short stitch. Net so that all are in a line with the long stitches. At the end of this row draw up the center and tie tightly to form a circle, and then continue round and round, re- peating the last 2 rows twice more; but at the end of each round tie in the first loop of next round by putting the to complete the scol- stitch just the same length as the loop in last round, t number of scollops, Next to the last round. — Net 6 stitches in the No. 16. — Netted Mat. first loop, putting mesh once before then r plain stitch repeat. Last round. — Net the thread over the making each stitch, in the next loop, and 1 stitch in every loop, letting the one in the short loop draw up a little, so as to form the scollop effect. Use a coarse bone needle for this mesh. Only one size is required. Netted Mat. No. 16. — Use Coats' No. 20 cotton for this mat, and 2 meshes — one quite large and one small. Use the large mesh first, and over the foundation-loop make 33 stitches; draw up the foundation thread and tie to form a circle. Next work round the mat, and using the small mesh, make 4 rows; with the large mesh, make 1 row and put 3 stitches into every loop of preceding row. Now make 6 rows with the small mesh, then 1 row with the large mesh the same as before. Next make thread over the mesh as usual, but before draw- 5 rows with the small mesh; then begin the points ing up the stitch slip the mesh out and draw the by working into 19 loops; turn and work back and No. 15. — Netted Fixger-Bowl Doii.y. 128 TATTING AND NETTING. forth, leaving the last loop unworked in each row, until the point is completed. Skip 2 loops and tie again, and work back having u loops on the mesh this time, and 1 unworked loop at the end; continue in this way until there is but 1 loop on the mesh, and then cut the thread. Leaving the 1 loop un- worked in each row nar- rows it. Begin the next point by tying the thread in the 2nd loop from the last point made, and work back and forth in the same way; make the re- maining points in a simi- lar manner. Should there be too many loops, say 2 or 3, narrow by working through 2 at once ; if there are not enough, widen by netting 2 stitches in one loop. Darn the squares in the points as seen in the picture, thus : Darn a square in the 2nd loop from the edge, skip 1 loop and darn 1 in the next one, then darn 1 in the 3rd row and 2 in the next row (see picture); this completes the square. For a smaller doily of this kind, begin with fewer stitches and use finer mesh-sticks. A set of doileys or mats No. 11. — Plate Doily, with Netted Border. the thread in the next one to begin the next point, and so continue until all the points are completed. There are 13 points in the mat pictured. Plate Doily, With Netted Border. No. 17. — Use 3 sizes of mesh-sticks. Make the center of the doily of linen and about 7 inches in diameter. Net 237 stitches over a foundation loop with the largest mesh. Second row. — Use the smallest mesh, and work 1 row; then join the two ends and work 2 rounds with the same mesh. Fifth round. — Use the largest mesh, and make 1 loop in each loop. Sixth round. — Use the medium-sized mesh, and work through 3 loops at once. Seventh row. — Use the largest mesh, and put 3 stitches in each loop. Eighth and Ninth rounds. — Use the smallest mesh. The ninth row should contain 238 loops. Tenth round. — In this round the points, of which there are 17, are begun with the same mesh. At the end of the ninth round turn the work, and work back until there are 12 loops on the mesh, then turn f • ft a »* « a ».a ft • a.a ft a • * » • a • »*« *,* • • *** »** • «. 00 *."* •> a •*• a*o a aft** ■>«»*• U>,>uf«i»l||||f|«*(. ■*•• #,™ ■*".->*' • ft * a • ft *.* '• a] a c ' ? • •••"• • a~ *.* ■'WWHi ::-:;. .■'';-;l;.:_-i »■•«■■*;••• ft.**,* a* a* '■■'-'■■'■'■ ■ : illf'."."' ».«ii««.r.-^'» .■■:■■; .1 ■. \:i-h^.~X% •••*■.« •■•}•• •.••V"*'"^ 111 , :l:l.m .■**.» • •"*.• ttfi m j |B.i;i::::;;::i „■#?:•••»:• •.■ »,!■•« u La , -~ IJ" ••»'« t»ftT«ftp1r.:L":-'^:::-^U*ti;;[;;:;:::™*'*»**«««»^^ f* #.■ ft * . ■■■■.■■ ■ iin " riiiii . t<:«hm a - - f » :;::* & f c::mk::x ■ >:< «s::: >.«ft>.a».*nlV' • I1. iTCft*ft*a»aV«*!ftft/«*.a»ftm >---:i| PVIS**fta».a * «■••.••■ »vs'm » ■*.• • • « * •■• "*'■*■• •»,» » » ?•"•,*» flft> bv *•••.• ••• »." *!*. - — ft •*••*** a"! ft"! 1% ft e - ■ flilBftft *.*i • « |T1 tV ■% ft ft •.* « • ft • *,» No. 18.— Square in Guipure or Darned Net. (For Suggestions see No. 10, Page 110.) of this description is an attractive addition to the dinner, breakfast or luncheon table. TATTING AND NETTING. 129 Plate Doily, with Netted Border. No. 20. — For this doily cut the linen center 7 inches in diam- eter, and hem narrowly. Use 3 sizes of mesh sticks (one- fourth and one- sixteenth of an inch wide, and a medium-sized knitting needle for the smallest mesh.) Net 263 stitches over the foundation loop, using the largest mesh. Second rcnv. — Use the smallest mesh, and work back 1 row; then being careful that the work is not twisted on the foundation loop, join the 2 ends and work 2 rounds with the same mesh. Fifth round. — Use the largest mesh, and net 1 stitch in each loop. Sixth round. — Seventh round. — Use the largest mesh, and put 3 stitches in each loop. Eighth round. — Use the smallest mesh, and net 3 MO. 20. — Plate Doily, with Netted Border. No. 19.— Square Df Parkino and Applique ox Netting. (No Description.) Next use the medium-sized mesh, and work through all 3 loops at once, for the entire round. 9 rounds, netting r stitch in each loop of the row. Eleventh round. — Use the largest mesh, and net 1 in each loop. Twelfth round. — Use the medium-sized mesh, and work through 3 loops at once. Thirteenth round. — Use the largest mesh, net 6 stitches in the first loop, 1 in the next, and repeat for the entire round. Fourteenth round. — Use the smallest mesh, and net 1 in every loop. Sew to the center the same as directed for the finger-bowl doily. Netted Square. (For Illustration see Page 130.) No. 21. — This scpaare consists of a foundation of plain netting (begun at one corner) handsomely darned in the same manner that drawn-work is darned. The border is button-holed, and the net- ting is cut away from it on the outside when it is completed, in order to form the pointed edge. On page ioo will be seen the method of button-holing an edge. No description of details will be necessary. 130 TATTING AND NETTING. Section for Netted Square. are needed to make the square as large as required; work back and forth, narrowing at each side until No. 22. — Four sections like the one illustrated a single stitch remains. Next darn the section in No. 21. — Netted Square. (For Description see Page 129.) No. 23. — Corner of a Square in Guipure or Darned Netting. (For Suggestions for No. 23, see No. 10 Page 110.) at No. 22 may be joined to form a square. Begin any pattern desired in case the one here illustrated with as many stitches over the foundation loop as is not in keeping with individual taste. TATTING AND NETTING. 131 No. 26.— Border in Darned Nettisg. No. 28.— Corner a Octpure Netting. (For Suggestions for Nop. 24, 25, 26, 27 and 28. see No. :0 on Pago lin ) 132 TATTING AND NETTING. To Stiffen and Press Netting. It is essential that doileys or mats of netting, when made of cotton or linen, should be pressed and ' often stiffened, otherwise the work is apt to appear flimsy and fails to disclose its beauty. When dry and stiffen it. Mats may also be stiffened by dampening with starch water. When there is a linen center, and renovation is necessary, wash and starch the doily, pull the netting into shape, and iron until dry. When netting is made in ruche form around the ria^n (&rro rhttsi No. 29. — Square in Guipure or Darned Netting. (No Description. For Suggestions See No. 10, Page 110.) No. 30. No. 31. NOS. 30 AND 31. — DEAILS OF BORDER OF SQUARE ABOVE ILLUSTRATED. a doily or mat is completed, spread it carefully upon a clean, soft white cloth; wring another cloth, not too dryly, out of borax water, place it over the doily and press with a hot iron. The steam from the wet cloth will dampen the doily, and the hot iron will edge of a doily, it should be starched and pulled into fluting with the fingers when nearly dry. It may be best, or advisable, to slightly smooth it with the iron before forming the fluting described. The fluting should form an upright border. TATTING AND NETTING 138 ARTICLES OF USE AND O^NAAENT. Netted Scare or Throw. No. i. — It may interest our patrons to know that the scarf represented below, was made by a young lady who is totally devoid of sight, and that the work was, therefore, carried out entirely by the sense of touch. Owing to the peculiar texture of the material used in making it, the artist was unable to perfectly rep- resent the work, which is very evenly done, all the points and pyramids at the lower edges being uniform. In silk or in a soft thread which does not twist, the scarf would be very pretty indeed, the design being showy but not difficult. Use 3 sizes of mesh-sticks and make the center first. Begin with the smallest mesh, and make 38 stitches over the foundation- loop, and then make 78 plain rows like the first one. Now, for the fancy end, make 2 rows with the middle-sized mesh; then use the largest mesh and make 3 stitches in every loop. Then make 2 rows with the small mesh, 1 stitch in every loop. Now make 1 row plain with the largest mesh, then with the middle-sized mesh make 1 stitch through every 3 loops; then 1 row plain with the same mesh. Next use the largest mesh and make 3 stitches in every loop, then 2 rows plain with the smallest mesh, putting 1 stitch in every loop. Next 1 row with the largest mesh, then use the middle-sized mesh and make 1 stitch through every 3 loops; 1 row plain with the same mesh, then another row with the large mesh, putting 3 stitches in every loop, then 2 plain rows with the small mesh; then with the same mesh make the pyramid thus: Net 3 stitches, skip 1, * net 5 stitches, skip 1, and repeat from star across the row to the end, where you net 3 plain. Next row. — Net 2 stitches, skip i, * make the thread over the mesh a little longer, then net 4 plain, skip 1, and repeat from * to end of row. Next row. — Net 2 stitches, make the thread a little longer, skip 1, * net 3 stitches, skip 1 and repeat from * across the row. Next row. — Net 1, * skip 1, make the thread a little longer, net 2, and repeat from *. Next row. — ■ Net 1, * skip 1, make the thread a little longer, net 1 and repeat from *. In mak- ing the first row of pyramids, if the stitches are a little short in number, make one or more by putting two in one, and if there are too many stitches for the pattern, narrow by working two Make the other end to correspond. So. 1, — Netted Scarf or Throw. loops together. No. Ni 1 iii) Fascinator. (For Illustration Bee Page 134.) 2. — This is a pretty, light covering to be 134 TA" ING AND NETTING. worn on the head as represented in our engraving, or to be used as a handkerchief for the neck. Procure 4 ozs. of salmon pink Berlin wool, a small steel mesh, and 3 flat meshes, measuring respectively No. 2.— Netted Fascinator (Mat be Used as a Fichu.) (For Description see Page 133.) a quarter-inch, a half-inch, and three-quarters of an inch. Begin for the straight side of the fascinator with 45 stitches worked on a foundation with the quarter-inch mesh. Continue on the same mesh, working all plain netting, and reduce by taking 2 loops together at the end of every row till a three- cornered piece of work is produced, ending with 1 stitch only; this is the center of the fascinator. For the Border; First round. — Take the half- inch mesh, and net 2 stitches in every loop round the three sides of the fascinator. Second round. — With quarter-inch mesh, net 1 stitch in every loop along the sides and increase 2 or 3 stitches at each corner. Third round. — With three-quarter inch mesh, net 2 stitches in every loop of last round. Fourth round. — With quarter-inch mesh, take up 2 loops together and net as 1 stitch. Fifth round. — With three-quarter inch mesh, net 8 stitches in the 1st loop of last round, wool over the mesh, and pass the needle from left to right through the 2 next loops, and repeat. Sixth round. — With the small steel mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop of the scollop of 8 loops, net 1 stitch in the loop formed by the passing of the needle, and repeat. Seventh round. — With same mesh, plain netting. This completes the fascinator, Work-Bag with Netted Cover. No. 3. — This original looking bag is made of a red silk handkerchief lined with Swiss cambric. Before cutting it out the handkerchief is to be folded the shape of a triangle; the two middle ends are then rounded off, thus giving the bottom of the bag. A cover netted with cord finishes the outside. The cover is begun with 23 stitches; 15 rows are then netted with the same number of stitches, and in the next 7 rows, 1 stitch is to be increased at the end of every row; the 22nd row has now 30 stitches, and 10 rows the same width then follow, reaching as far as the middle of the net; from here the net- ting is decreased in the same proportion as it was increased in the first half. The net is then fastened on the wooden rods where the bag opens. Each of these is 7^ inches long and 1% inch thick, and ornamented at the end with a flat metal button. On these rods the stitches in the first and last rows of netting are fastened with cord by catching up each stitch twice, and wrapping the cord around the rod in doing it. The stitches are then slipped close together into a space of 3^ inches. Dark red ribbon $% inches wide folded three times, and thick gold cord are next put through the edge stitches on both sides of the net. A yard and a half of olive green ribbon and about five-eighths of a yard of gold cord will be required. The ends of the ribbon go over the rods, while the gold cord, is put through two holes bored in the rods and each is finished with a knot sewn firmly below these. (See picture.) The cord going over the rods serves to hold the ribbon No. 3. — Work-Bag with Netted Cover. strap which is put on with small bows. After the silk bag and the cover are tacked together at the outer edges, pompons of wool the color of the bag and ribbon are added to complete the bag. TATTING AND NETTING. L85 Corner of a Netted Shawl. No. 4. — Saxon) was used for this shawl. Use 3 different sizes ot mesh-sticks. Make the cen- ter, which is square, over the middle-sized mesh. An easy way of making the square is to begin with 2 stitches, and widen at the end of each row until the work is of the dimensions required; then nar- row plain, except at each corner, where you put 2 Stitches in each of the 3 corner-loops. Next row. — Use the smallest mesh, and put 2 stitches in every other loop. Next row. — For the open stripe use the largest mesh and make 1 row plain, putting 1 stitch in every loop. Next two rows. — Use the middle-sized mesh, but in the first row work through 3 loops at once; work the next row plain. Next rmv. — Use the largest mesh, and make 3 stitches in every loop, except at each corner, where you put 4 stitches in each of the 4 loops. Then make 4 rows with the smallest mesh, putting 1 stitch in every loop. Next row. — Use the largest mesh, and make 1 row plain; then use the middle-sized mesh for the next 2 rows, but in the first tow work through 2 loops at once. No. 4. — Corner of a Netted Shawl. row in the same proportion until the square is com- pleted. For the border use the same mesh and make 4 rows, but in the first row make 2 stitches in every long loop, where the widening comes along the edge of fhe square, so that the 4 rows will not draw, and at the corners they will widen enough to make them lie perfectly flatly. Next row. — Use the largest mesh, and make 1 Next roiv. — Use the largest mesh, * make 7 stitches in the first loop, skip 1 loop, make 1 stitch in the next one, skip 1 loop, and repeat from * around the work. Next make 4 rows with the finest mesh, putting 1 stitch in every loop of the first row, except at each corner, where you put 2 stitches in each of the 3 loops between 2 groups of 7. Cut fringe the desired length, and knot 1 strand in every loop. 136 TATTING AND NETTING. Netted Mouchoir or Photograph Case. No. 5. — Use satin or any desired color for the lining of the case, and Glasco lace thread for the directions in reverse order. At each end make 6 or 7 rows with the bone needle, making 2 stitches in every loop in the first row; then 1 in each loop in the remaining rows. This forms the full por- tion, which is to be stiff- ened with borax water and fluted with the fingers. Fit the outside over the inside, fold the inside to- gether so that the ends meet over the center, -and sew it over and over along the sides ; then sew the outside together across the sides separately from the inside, first having sewed the ends having the fluted ruffle to the inside. Make bows of ribbon and arrange at each end (see picture). Netted Border for Handkerchief. No. 5 — Netted Mocchoir or Photograph Case. netting, although knitting silk may be used, if pre- ferred. Make the lining or inside of the case a quarter of a yard wide, and thirteen inches and a half long. Two pieces of this size will be required, and a layer of sheet wadding is placed between them. For the Outside. — First make 50 stitches over the foundation loop, with a coarse bone needle for the mesh, and then net 5 rows with the same mesh. Next make 3 rows with a coarse steel needle, then 1 fancy stripe thus: Use a ^-inch mesh and make 1 row plain; then with the bone mesh pass the thread over the mesh and fingers in the regular way: then pass the needle through the loop on the finger as usual, through the first loop, then through the second; draw the second through the first, then the first through the second, and tie in the cus- tomary manner. Next, work through the second loop, and repeat this movement across the row. Make 2 more plain rows with the bone needle; then another fancy stripe made thus: One row with the ^-inch mesh; next use the bone needle and work through 2 loops at once; 1 row with the same mesh plain; then with the ^-inch mesh make 2 stitches in every loop. Next make 7 rows with the bone needle, then make another fancy stripe like the first one, 6 rows plain with the bone needle, then another fancy stripe like the second one; this brings you to the center. Work the other half to correspond, following the No. 6. — This lace forms a handsome finish for a handkerchief with open drawn-work border. Three mesh sticks were used in its construction: First, a piece of thin steel, one-eighth of an inch wide. Second, bone, one-fourth of an inch wide. No. 6. — Netted Border for Handkerchief. Third, steel, bone or wood, slightly wider than the second. With the smallest mesh make 4 rows. With the second size, 1 row. Then, with the largest size TATTING AND NETTING. 187 make i row putting the needle through 3 loops at once, except at the corners where it is put through but 2 loops. Now, with the second size, make 1 row of netting with 3 stitches in each loop except at the corners, where several extra stitches are re- quired. Then with the smallest mesh make 4 rows, 1 stitch in each mesh. If, as in the present instance, the lace be made separate, make a double row of meshes of sufficient length for one side and insert a cord. Then proceed to the other sides. Allow one mesh for each one-eighth inch with 6 or 8 extra ones for the corners. For example: If the handker- chief is 11 inches square, about 96 stitches will be needed for each side. This double row is equal to three rows, as will be perceived when the lace is completed. If the lace be made on the article, the knots of the first row should be drawn very close to the material, and a very fine netting needle used. Netted Tie. No. 7. — Use a small mesh-stick, and make 22 stitches over the foundation-loop; then, with the same mesh, make 170 rows, which form the body of the tie. For the Border. — Take a wider mesh and use a double thread, and net plain, except at the corners, where you make 3 stitches in each of the 3 loops. Second roio. — Use the same mesh and double thread; net 3 loops (or 6 threads) together, and add 2 more stitches in the same loop, that is, up through Fourth row. — Net plain with the same mesh. The tie which results from these directions may be made as long as desired — long enough to pass No. 7.— Netted Tie. the middle of the group, except at the corners, which you net plain. Third row. — Use the small mesh, and net plain, putting a stitch in every loop that may be formed by separating the double thread. No. 8. — Netted Night-Cap. around the neck and tie, or, as represented, just long enough to make the loop, knot and ends. Netted Nightcap. No. 8. — This is a light cap, netted with knitting cotton No. 8, and meshes of two sizes. Commence with the larger mesh, putting on 28 stitches; through these run a double thread of cotton, and unite in a circle. Then with the smaller mesh do 3 rounds of plain netting. Fifth round. — With the larger mesh, net 3 stitches in every loop of last round. Net 3 plain rounds with the smaller mesh. Ninth round. — With the larger mesh, net 2 stitches in every loop of last round. Tenth round.— With the smaller mesh, take up the 3 first loops together, and net them as 1 stitch, net 1 stitch in the next loop, and repeat to the end of the round. Net 2 plain rounds with the same mesh. Thirteent/i aw///:/.— With the larger mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop all round; in this round a tape is afterwards to be run to tie in a bow at the back. Now with the smaller mesh, net a stitch in each loop, but leave 20 loops unworked at the end of the round, and turn, and net back; this gives 64 stitches for the front of the cap; with the same mesh net another row. Then work the same as the 138 TATTING AND NETTING. 9th, 10th, nth and 12th rows, and repeat these 4 rows; net also 2 more plain rows with the small mesh, and 1 plain row with the large mesh ; in this last row a tape is to be run. For the Border: First round. — With larger mesh, net 2 stitches in each loop all round the cap, excepting at the corners and in the long mesh loops No. 9. — Netted Shoulder Cape at the turning of the rows, where make 3 stitches. Second and Third rounds. — With smaller mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop of last round. Fourth round. — Net 1 loop, miss 1 loop, and repeat. A double border is worked along the front of the cap; (his begins with a row of stitches worked upon the smaller mesh into the third plain row before the first border; the netting of the first border is then here repeated. Finish with the strings. Netted Shoulder Cape. No. 9. — These capes are very light and elegant in appearance. Our model is netted with black silk braid of 2 widths — chain braid, and one-fourth inch wide braid. Four meshes are used, measuring respectively a quarter-inch, a half-inch, one and a half inches, and 2 inches in width. First row. — With the narrow braid and quarter- inch mesh, commence at the neck with 46 stitches. Net 2 plain rows. Fourth row. — With the same mesh and braid, net 2 stitches in the first loop, 1 stitch in the next loop, and repeat the same to the end of the row. Fifth row. — With wide braid, net plain the 3 first and the 3 last stitches upon quarter-inch mesh, and all the other stitches on the one and a half inch mesh. Net 3 plain rows with the narrow braid and smallest mesh. Ninth row. — With the same mesh and braid, net 2 stitches in the first loop, 1 stitch in the next loop, and repeat. Net 2 plain rows with the same. Twelfth row. — With wide braid, plain netting, the 3 first and the 3 last stitches upon quarter-inch mesh; the other stitches on one and a half inch mesh. Thirteenth row. — With narrow braid and small mesh, increase 1 stitch in every alternate loop. Net 4 plain rows with the same mesh and braid. Eighteenth row. — With narrow braid and one and a half inch mesh, net 1 stitch in every loop. Nineteenth row. — With same braid. and half-inch mesh, net 2 loops together all along the row. Twentieth row. — With the same mesh and braid, plain netting. Twenty-first roiv. — With one and a half inch mesh, work 2 stitches into each of the 6 successive loops, then 3 stitches into each of 24 loops, then 2 stitches into each loop until 30 loops from the end, when net 3 stitches into each of 24 successive loops, and 2 stitches into each of 6 remaining loops. Net 4 plain rows with same braid and small mesh. Twenty-sixth row. — With wide braid, net plain, the 3 first and the 3 last stitches upon quarter-inch No. 10. — Netted Mitt.. (For Description see Page 139.) mesh, and all the other stitches on the one and a half inch mesh. Twenty-seventh row. — With narrow braid and small mesh, plain netting. Twenty-eighth row. — With wide braid and one and a half inch mesh (except the 3 first and 3 last stitches which net with the small mesh), work 36 stitches plain, then take 2 together 12 times, then 1 TATTING AND NETTING. 1 89 stitch into every loop till 60 from the end, when work to correspond with the beginnii Twenty-ninth row. — With narrow braid and small mesh, plain netting. Thirtieth row. — With wide braid, plain netting, 3 first and 3 last stitches upon quarter-inch mesh and the other stitches on one and a half inch mesh. Thirty-first row. — With narrow braid and the small mesh, plain netting Thirty-secondtrow. — With wide braid and one and a half inch mesh (except the 3 first and 3 last stitches which do with the small mesh), net 1 stitch into every loop for 42 stitches, then take 2 loops together, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, then 1 stitch in each loop until 59 loops from the end, when take 2 loops together, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, 3 plain, 2 together, 42 plain. Net 3 plain rows with narrow braid and the small mesh. Thirty-sixth row. — With the same braid and one and a half inch mesh, plain netting. Net 2 plain rows with narrow braid and the small mesh. Thirty-ninth row. — Plain, with one and a half inch mesh, net 4 plain rows with narrow braid and the small mesh. Forty-fourth roii1. — With narrow braid and the 2- inch mesh, net 2 stitches into 6 successive loops, 1 stitch in the next loop, and repeat. Forty-fifth row. — Plain netting on the quarter- inch mesh. Forh-sixth row. — Plain netting on the one and a half inch mesh. Forty-seventh rmv. — Plain netting on the quarter- inch mesh. Forty-eighth row. — With the same mesh, net 1 stitch in each alternate loop. This is sufficient depth for the cape. For the Collar. — Join on narrow braid at neck. First roii'. — With one and a half inch mesh, work 2 stitches into every loop. Second row. — With the same braid and quarter- inch mesh, net 2 loops together all along. Third row. — With the same, plain netting. Fourth row. — With same braid and the one and a half inch mesh, work 2 stitches into each loop, but take 2 loops together about 6 times towards the middle to shape it. Fifth roic. — With the same, net 3 loops together twice at the beginning and end of the row, and 2 loops together at intervals throughout the center. Sixth row. — With the same braid and the small mesh, net 1 stitch in every alternate loop. Run a ribbon round the neck and tie in a bow in front. Netted Mitt. (For Illustration s.ee Pa^e 138.) No. io. — To make these mittens, procure some machine silk of the size desired, a fine steel netting needle, and 2 steel knitting needles, No. 10 and No. 7 to use for meshes. Commence for the top of the hand with mesh No. 19, putting 40 stitches on a foundation, and join round. Second round. — Plain netting, but pass the silk twice round the mesh to every stitch. Third round. — Net 2 plain stitches with the silk twice round the mesh, silk twice round the mesh and net into the 3rd loop, and net 2 more stitches here with the silk once round the mesh, then the silk twice round the mesh and net into the 4th loop and do 2 more stitches here with the silk once round the mesh, and repeat 2 plain stitches and 2 looped stitches alternately to the end of the round. Work 6 more rounds in the same manner, only in each round let the "loops" (/. e., the 3 stitches into one loop of preceding round), go, as it were, on the slant, 1 stitch beyond the loops of previous round. Tenth round. — With No. 7 mesh, plain netting. Eleventh round. — Draw the first loop of previous round upwards through the 2nd loop of the same round and net a stitch in it, then draw up the 2nd loop through the little opening under the knot and net a stitch in it, and entwine every 2 loops together in this manner to the end of the round; these 2 rounds form a pattern of Grecian netting. Now repeat the 7 rounds of looped netting. When this is done put 16 stitches on to a new foundation for the beginning of the thumb, join round, and work the same as the first 9 rows of the hand part. Join the thumb to the mitten by netting 4 loops of each together on the inside of the mitten. Do the 2 rounds of Grecian netting. Repeat the 7 rounds of looped netting, decreasing twice in each round by taking two loops together on each side of the thumb. Do the two rounds of Grecian netting. Repeat the 7 rounds of looped netting now decreas- ing once in each round in the inside of the hand. Do the 2 rounds of Grecian netting. Again work the 7 rounds of looped netting, this time with no decreasing whatever. Do the 2 rounds of Grecian netting. Repeat the 7 rounds of looped netting, and in the last 2 of these increase 3 stitches in each round. Do the 2 rounds of Grecian netting. Do 2 rounds of plain netting on the small mesh, passing the silk twice round the mesh to every stitch. For the Border: First round. — With No. 7 mesh, net 3 stitches into each loop. Second round. — With No. 19 mesh, pass the silk twice round the mesh and take up 3 loops of last row together on the needle and net them as 1 stitch, and continue same to the end of the round. Repeat these 2 rounds twice. Seventh and Eighth rounds. — Plain netting on small mesh, passing silk twice round themesh toeverystitch. Ninth round. — With No. 7 mesh, miss the first loop, net 6 stitches in the next, miss the next, net 1 stitch in the next, and continue thus alternately doing 6 stitches and 1 stitch in every other loop. Work 2 plain rounds on small mesh, and fasten off. For the Border at the top of the Mitten an I round the Thumb: First round. — With No. 7 mesh, net 2 stitches into each loop. Second round. — With No. 19 mesh, pass silk twice round the mesh and take up 2 loops of last round together on the needle and net them as 1 stitch. Third round. — Plain netting on the small mesh passing the silk twice round the mesh to each stitch. Finish with 3 rounds same as the last 3 of the wrist. Net the other mitten to correspond. 140 TATTING AND NETTING. Netted Shawl. knitting needle No. 14; any number of rows may be worked. No. 11. — This very dainty shawl is made of pale- For the Border: — First row. — Work two stitches in blue Saxony. Three sizes of raesh- sticks are used, the same as in the corner of shawl se at No. 4, page Make the square tl as directed for tl mentioned, and al: first 5 rows of th th «fe same manner. Next make the open stripe by the same directions ; then 4 rounds with the smallest mesh, then another open stripe; next 3 rounds with the smallest mesh, and then use the largest mesh and make 1 round plain; then use the middle-sized mesh and make 1 round, working through 3 loops at once. Next round. — Make 6 stitches in 1 loop, 1 in the next, and repeat for the entire round; then use the smallest mesh and make 1 stitch in every loop. Directions for Netting a Seine. (No Illustration.) Make a foundation loop. Begin at the left, hold- ing the mesh-stick in the left hand, the needle in the right. Throw the thread over the mesh-stick. To form a mesh, pass the thread over and under the third finger, catch the thread under the thumb, and back under and over the little finger, through the loop made on the third finger, bringing the needle up under the mesh-stick, through the mesh. Let all loops off, except the one on the little finger, until the mesh is formed on the mesh-stick, loosen- ing the loop on the little finger last. Draw up tightly, to form the knot. Next row. — Slip the meshes off the mesh-stick, and turn work over and work as before. Design for Antimacassars, Fichus, Darned Netting, etc. No. 12. — The foundation is netted plain over a Netted ^ each loop of foundation over a quar- ter-inch mesh. Second row. — Over the small mesh work one stitch through the second stitch worked into one loop of last row, and into the next loop together, so that the double loop always slants to the right. Third row. — Plain. Fourth row. — One stitch over the large mesh into a stitch of last row, pass over one stitch, six stitches into the next, pass over one stitch and repeat. Fifth row. — One stitch over the large mesh into each stitch of last row. Sixth row. — With the small mesh work into each loop of last row, twisting the long loops as de- scribed elsewhere in these pages. The pattern is darned in the foundation with soft knitting cot- ton. Bread -T ray Cover. (For Illustration see Page 141. j No. 12. — Design fob Antimacassars Fichus, Darned Netting, Etc. No. 13. — This cover is worked with crochet cot- ton No. 8, and a medium size knitting needle for one mesh, also a mesh one-half inch wide; a skein of TATTING AND NETTING. 141 knitting cotton No. 12 is required for darning the Third round. — With half-inch mesh, i stitch in pattern on the oblong netted center. With crochet each loop. cotton and smallest mesh work 2 stitches on to the Fourth round. — With half-inch mesh, net 1 stitrh No. 13. — Bread-Tray Cover. (For Description see Page 140.) foundation or into 1 loop of the piece of netting which serves as a foundation; turn the work, and pro- ceed as directed for oblong netting, till 29 stitches are attained; then decrease at the end of the next row by taking 2 loops together, and increase at the end of the next row, and continue thus decreasing on one side and increasing on the other, till you can count 49 squares straight along the edge ; after this take two loops together at the end of every row, and so reduce to 2 stitches only, and fas- ten off. For the Border: First rou nd. — \\'ith the same cotton and mesh, net 1 stitch in each square all round the piece of netting with 6 stitches to full round each corner. Second round. — W i th in each loop of last JL *Mm?M No. 14. — Plum Basket. the same round. mesh, 1 stitch in the 2nd loop, 1 stitch in the 1st loop, 1 in the 4th, 1 in the 3rd, and so on, crossing the loops all round. Net 2 rounds plain with the smaller mesh, increasing a stitch or two at the comers if needed. Seventh round. — Same as the 3rd round. Eighth round. — Same as the 4th round. Net 2 plain rounds with the smaller mesh. Eleventh round. — With half-inch mesh, net 5 stitches in one loop, cotton round the mesh, miss 3 loops, and repeat; miss only 1 loop at the corners. Twelfth round. — With smaller mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop of last round, and draw up the long thread through the center loop of the 3 missed (and through the 1 missed at the corners), and net r in it, and repeat. Thirteenth round. — With same mesh, plain netting all round, and fasten off. Take the knitting cotton and a long darning needle, and darn upon the center piece of oblong netting the pattern as shown in the engraving. Plum Basket. No. 14. — Although this receptacle is called a plum basket it may be used for other fruit as well. It will be found convenient in gathering and carrying fruit of all descriptions. Made of strong cord it becomes a convenient vegetable bag. In fact its many uses will suggest themselves to the observer without our assistance. It is simply a circular net- 14:2 TATTING AND NETTING. ted section widened only now and then in order„to obtain the size required at the top and yet preserve the bag effect. The hoop at the top may be of wood or metal as preferred or convenient, and the No. 15. — Oriental Pattern for Long Window Curtains. handle made of strong cord or tape, or formed of a strap worked in single crochet. Oriental Pattern for Long Window Curtains. No. 15. — Use knitting cotton No. 8, and meshes of two sizes. With the smaller mesh, commence with as many stitches as will suffice for the length of the curtain, and work 3 plain rows. Fourth row. — With larger mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop of last row. Fifth row. — With smaller mesh, draw the 1st loop through the 2nd loop and net it, then draw the 2nd loop through the 1st and net it, and continue in the same manner to the end of the row. Net 2 plain rows. Repeat from the 4th row. Twelfth row. — With double cotton and larger mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop. Thirteenth roaej. — With the same cotton and mesh, No. 16. — Design for Short, Darned Window Curtain. take up every 3 loops, and net them as 1 stitch. Fourteenth row. — With same, plain netting. Fifteenth roio. — With same, work 3 stitches in each loop of last row. Sixteenth row. — With single cotton and smaller mesh, work 1 stitch in each loop. Seventeenth row. — With same, plain netting. Repeat the pattern from the 4th row for the width required. Then when wide enough make the 4th row and the 5th row, and on this work for the border. For the Border: First row. — With a flat half-inch wide mesh, net 3 stitches in each alternate loop. Second and Third rows. — With smaller mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop. Fourth row. — With larger mesh, net 1 stitch in each alternate loop. This completes the curtain. Design for Short, Darned Window Curtain. No. 16. — Use knitting cotton No. 8, and a flat bone mesh a quarter-inch in width. Commence as usual, a stitch at the end of every row till you have produced the width required for the curtain, then TATTING AND NETTING. 1 i:; decrease by taking up 2 loops together on the shortest side of the netting, and still increase on the longest side, these two operations taking place at the end of alternate rows, so that you retain the same number of stitches on the mesh till the netting is the length required, when decrease at the end of every row to shape the corner. Then having the foun- dation finished, stretch it out, dampen and iron it if necessary, and proceed to darn the pattern. \ i 1TF.D Cover for Bonbon Dish. Nos. 17 and 18. — These two en- gravings show a very pretty article for table use. No. 17 shows it when in use, and No. 18 as it appears when finished and before it is arranged. The netting is done with mesh-sticks of two sizes, and the points are made precisely like those of doily borders. The size of the cover must depend upon that of the dish it is to conceal. The points may be increased or diminished in number to make the cover larger or smaller, but a point itself should not be divided. The cover can be used as a bonbon bag by draw- ing it together at the straight edge, and running a tasseled cord or a narrow ribbon through the large meshes next the points for a drawing string. Lamp-shades can be netted on the same plan, and covers for vases, albums and mouchoir-ca.ses and for fan and opera-glass bags may also be developed from the idea here presented. Directions for Making Netted Curtains. 1 No Illustration.) Silk or rococo yarn may be used for making these curtains. Use two sizes of mesh-sticks, large and small, or flat sticks one-half and one-fourth of an inch wide. If preferred, larger meshes may be used. The foundation for a curtain four yards in length requires 576 stitches. Begin with the half-inch mesh, and net 4 rows plain; then for the open stripe work thus: Fifth row. — Plain, using the half-inch mesh, Sixth /-rT.\ — Use the smaller mesh, and net through 2 loops at once, repeating across the row. Seventh row. — Net plain, using the same mesh. Eighth row. — Use the larger mesh, and net 2 stitches in each loop across the row; this forms the open stripe. For the Diamond Stripe. — Use the small mesh, and net 4 rows plain. Fifth rote. — Net 1 plain stitch, then pass the thread around the mesh only; then net 1 regular stitch in the next loop, and repeat this across the No. 11. — Netted Coves for Bonbon Dish. (Arranged.) row; when the work is slipped off the mesh there will be 1 long loop and 1 short one. Sixth raw. — Net plain, holding the mesh so that it will be on a line with the long loops. Seventh row. — Like the 5th, but begin by putting the thread around the mesh instead of beginning with the plain stitch. Eighth row. — Like sixth row. Then repeat the last 4 rows (in- cluding the eighth) 5 times more; next work three rows plain, all to be worked with the small mesh. Next work another open stripe; thenastripe which is to be em- broidered. For the Em- broidered Stripe. — Use the one-fourth inch mesh, and net 36 plain rows; next repeat the open stripe, then the diamond stripe, and then the open stripe again. Now make another stripe to be embroidered. Use the small mesh, but net 39 rows plain; then repeat the open stripe, diamond stripe and open stripe each again. No. 18. — Netted Cover for Bonbon Dish. (Unfolded.! Third Embroidered Stripe. — Net same as first embroidered stripe; then repeat the open stripe, and net 4 rows plain; this makes a curtain one yard wide. To make the Edge for the Curtain. — Use the large mesh, and net 17 stitches in the last row of the curtain; turn and net 1 stitch in each of the 17 loops just made; then turn again, and work in 16 loops, 144 TATTING AND NETTING. leaving the last one free; continue in this way, working back and forth, leaving i loop free at the end of each row, until there is but i loop on the No. 19. — Infant's Netted Cap. mesh, and the point is completed; then cut the thread. Begin the next point in the next or 18th loop. Repeat the points along one side and the bottom of the curtain. The fancy stripes are embroidered in ordinary leaves, palm leaves or any chosen design, with the same kind of yarn or silk as that used for the curtains; a rug needle is used in darning them. The embroidery is done by pass- ing the needle over and un- der the stitch- es of the net- t in g. Em- broider the points in the same way. Infant's Netted Cap. No. 19. — This cap is made of Glas- co lace thread. Net 100 stitch- es into the foundation loop, using a coarse bone needle for a mesh stick; make 5 rows plain, then 6 rows with a coarse steel needle. Next use the bone needle and make 1 stitch plain, then 3 in the next loop, and repeat across the row. Next use a quarter-inch mesh and make 1 stitch plain, then 1 through the group of 3, and repeat. Next row, use the bone needle and work through 2 each time. Next row, plain with bone needle; then use the quarter-inch mesh, and work 2 stitches in every loop. Next row, with the bone needle, 1 stitch plain, 3 in the next and repeat; then 6 rows with the steel needle, netting the first row through 1 loop, then through 3; then make 5 rows with the bone needle. For the center of the back take n loops at each side of the center loop, making 23 in all, and work the pattern the same as for the part just given, except that in the last 2 groups of fine and coarse rows, you put 7 rows with the steel needle instead of 6, and 6 rows with the bone needle instead of 5. Also, after making the 3rd row in the group of 6 rows with the steel needle, widen 1 stitch in each row until you have 33 knots, or until you begin the 2nd group with the fine needle; then work without widening. Sew the center part to the sides with an over-and-over stitch, fulling in the sides of the front a trifle if necessary, and draw, the center of the back into about an -inch and a half space at the bottom. For the ruching, work across the front edge, using the bone needle, and make 2 stitches in every loop, No. 20. — Detail of Towel Border. No. 21. — Towel Bordered with Darned or Guipure Netting. (For Suggestions see No. 10, Page 110.) and across the lower edge also put 2 stitches in the loops, except where the long stitches come, and TATTING AND NETTING. 1 to there put 4 or 5, according to the length of it, to make it equally as full as the other part; and across the center of the back where it was drawn in, make the loops over the drawing thread and through several loops at once. Make 5 more rows across the front and 6 more across the bottom. Line the cap with silk and put ribbon ties at each corner. Netted Book Cover. Nos. 22 and 23. — Make a foundation of square netting of the size required, using rope silk, or, if preferred, coarse linen thread or cord. Then stretch the foundation on a frame and darn it as seen in the picture at No. 22 or in any other manner preferred. On preceding pages will be seen many methods of darning and varieties of stitches, any of which could be adapted to this cover. Now make a cover of linen or satin, fitting it to the book, and turning it over on the inside for about an inch all round to form a sort of pocket for the book. Then fasten the ornamented netting over the lining and the cover is complete. Netted Watch Pocket. No. 24. — This useful little article is quickly and easily made. Use crochet cotton for the netting and darning, and meshes of 2 sizes. Commence across the middle of the back, putting on 24 stitches with the larger mesh; net 1 plain row, and then work forwards and backwards, and decrease by omitting to net the last loop in every row until there is only one loop left. Then take out the foundation thread and put it farther back; net a plain row along the foundation stitches, and afterwards decrease by taking 2 loops together at the end of every row until there are 3 loops remaining, and fasten off. The engraving. For the front, put 40 stitches on a foundation thread with the larger mesh, take the other mesh and net 10 plain rows forwards and No. 22.— Darnixg Book Debtoh Cover. tor Netted No. 23. — Netted Book Cover. corner that finishes with one loop is the top of the same mesh, net pocket; on this darn the little pattern shown in the loops, miss the 10 No. 24. — Netted Watch Pocket. backwards, then tie the foundation thread in a cir- cle. Now round this work an edge: First round. — With the other mesh, net 4 stitches in one loop, miss the next loop, and repeat, and make 4 stitches in each loop along the top, and also 4 stitches in the little circle made by the foundation thread. Second round. — With the larger mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop of last round. Third round.— With same mesh, net 1 stitch in each of 3 consecutive loops, miss the next loop, and repeat. Fourth round. — With 1 stitch in each of 2 consecutive loop over the loop missed in last 146 TATTING AND NETTING. round, and repeat. Now darn a zigzag edge up and down in the 9th and 10th rows of plain netting, ;No. 25. — Netted Nightcap. and sew this piece on to the back of the pocket. Cut a piece of cardboard of the shape of the back and of the front piece of netting, cover it on both sides with pale blue or crimson silk, and finish off with a bow at top and bottom to hang the pocket up by. Netted Nightcap. No. 25. — Knitting cotton No. 8, and meshes of 2 sizes will be required. Begin with the smaller mesh by netting 22 stitches on a foundation thread, which tie round in a circle. Work a round of plain netting with the same mesh. Third round. — With the other mesh, net 5 stitches in one loop of last round, miss the next loop, and repeat. Fourth round. — With the other mesh, plain netting. Fifth round. — The same as the fourth round. Sixth round. — With the other mesh, net 2 stitches in every loop of last round. Net 10 plain rounds with the smaller mesh. Then leaving 25 loops un- worked for the back of the neck, net upon the re- maining loops forwards and backwards for 20 rows. For the Border. — With larger mesh, net 3 stitches in each loop all round the cap, and 5 stitches in each loop round each corner. Then do 2 rounds of plain netting with smaller mesh, and finish with a round thus: Make 1 loop, miss 1 loop, alternately, and fasten off. Darn the pattern as shown in the engraving round the front of the cap. Run in tapes, fasten on strings, and the cap is finished. Netted Tab. No. 26. — This is in sheaf pattern, with bunches of loops, The sheaf pattern is described in No. 17 on page 112. Make a foundation of as many loops as you require for the length of the tab. First row. — Plain over a mesh the eighth of an inch in width. Second row. — Sheaf netting, leaving one of the long loops without tying into a sheaf; for the end, on one of these loops commence the 3rd row. Work over the small mesh, ten stitches into the loop, and one stitch into each of the stitches worked with dou- ble cotton. Now work the 4th row all round plain. Fifth row. — Work in loop netting. Sixth row. — Plain. Seventh row. — Bunches of loops worked as de- scribed elsewhere in this pamphlet. Eighth row. — Plain. Netted Lappet for Caps, etc. (For Illustration see Page 147.) No. 27. — This lappet is composed of one section No. 26. — Netted Tab. of an open work and darned stripe (worked by stitches elsewhere shown) edged by a fan pattern. TATTING AND NETTING. 147 To form the point at the end, tie the cotton into the first of the four loops, work one stitch into each of the other four stitches, turn, knot the cotton into the center of last loop without working over a mesh, one stitch over the mesh into each of the three next loops, turn, knot the cotton into the first loop in the same way as last, one stitch into each of two loops, turn, knot the cotton into the first loop, one stitch into the next Now work a row round both sides and the end. First row. — In loop netting, work entirely round the end and along the other side. Second and Third raws, — Plain netting. Fourth ro7c. — Over the larger mesh work one stitch into a loop, six stitches into the next loop, and repeat. Over the small mesh work one stitch into each stitch of last row. Square for Neck-Handkerchiefs, Fichus, etc. No. 28. — The square shown is worked with white Berlin wool of which 4 to 5 ounces will be required, according to the size of the meshes you work with. If you wish the wrap to be rather closely netted use No. 27.— Netted Lappet for Caps, Etc. (For Description see Page 146.) flat meshes a quarter-inch and a half-inch wide; if preferred more open, let the meshes measure three- eighths and three-fourths of an inch in width. Commence with the smallest mesh, and put 60 loops on a foundation. Work 2 rows of plain netting. Third row. — With the large mesh, net 1 stitch in each of the first 2 loops, * 6 stitches in the next loop, 1 stitch in each of 5 consecutive loops, and repeat from *; end the row with 3 plain stitches. Fourth and Fifth rows. — With the small mesh, plain netting, 1 stitch in each loop. Sixth row, — With the large mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop. Seventh rotv.— With the small mesh, net 1 stitch in each of the first 2 loops, * gather the next 6 No. 28. — Section of Square for Neck-Handkerchief, Fichus, Ktc. (Fluted Pattern.) loops together on the needle, and net them as 1 stitch; net 1 stitch in each of 5 consecutive loops, and repeat from *; and end with 3 plain stitches. Eighth roiu. — With small mesh, plain netting. Ninth row. — With large mesh, net 1 stitch in each of the first 5 loops, * net 6 stitches in the next loop, net 1 stitch in each of 5 consecutive loops, and repeat from *; there will be 1 mere stitch to net plain at the end of the row; the fluted stitches in this row should come exactly between the fluted stitches of the 3rd row. Tenth and Eleventh roivs. — With small mesh, plain netting. Twelfth row. — With large mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop. Thirteenth roiv. — With small mesh, net 1 stitch in each of the first 5 loops, * gather the next 6 loops together on the needle and net them as 1 stitch, net 5 consecutive loops, and repeat from *; there will be 1 more stitch to net at the end of the row. Fourteenth ro7c — With small mesh, plain netting. 148 TATTING AND NETTING. Repeat from the 3rd row 5 times, and leave off after completing the 8th row. For the Border: First round. — With the large mesh, net 8 stitches in 1 loop, miss the next loop, and repeat. Second round. — With small mesh, net 1 stitch in each loop; net 1 or 2 extra stitches at the corners to ensure the necessary fulness. Third round. — With small mesh, miss the first loop of the group of last round, net r stitch in each of the 3 next loops, miss the next, net 1 stitch in each of the 3 next, and repeat. Fourth round. — Miss the loop over the loop missed in last round, net 1 stitch in each of the 2 next loops, miss the loop over the loop missed in the 2nd; this crosses the loops. Continue thus across the row. Fifth row. — Use the large mesh, and net plain. Sixth row. — Like the 4th row. Seventh row. — Use the large mesh and net plain, except at the corners, where you net 6 stitches into 1 loop; now break the thread. Eighth row. — Use the large mesh, and double the thread; begin at the top of left-hand corner, and net 2 stitches in each loop. Ninth rmv. — Use the small mesh and net (with the single thread) through 4 loops at once. Tenth row. — Use the large mesh and net plain. Eleventh row. — The same as 4th row. Twelfth row. — Use the small mesh and net 4 No. 29.— Section of Netted Collar last round, net 1 stitch in each of the 2 next, and repeat. Directions for Half of Netted Collar. No. 29. — This collar is shown made of very fine thread, and 2 sizes of mesh-sticks are used. First row. — Net 38 stitches over the foundation loop with the thread double, using the large „mesh. Second row. — Use the small mesh with the thread single, and net through every loop that may be formed by separating the threads which were doubled in the 1st row. Third row. — Use the large mesh, and net 1 stitch in each loop. Fourth row. — Use the small mesh and draw the 1st loop through the 2nd, then the 2nd through the 1st; then work through the 1st loop, then through plain loops, then in the 5th loop put 14 stitches, which forms the shell; * net 3 plain loops, then 14 stitches in the next loop, and repeat from * across the row. Thirteenth to Twenty-second ro7e> inclusive. — Use the small mesh and net plain. Twenty-third row. — Use the same mesh, and net 22 stitches, then through 10 loops at once; then net * 5 plain, through 10 at once, and repeat from *. Twenty-fourth and Twenty-fifth rows. — Use the same mesh and net plain. Twenty-sixth row. — Use the large mesh and net plain. Twenty-seventh roiu. — Same as 4th row. Twenty-eighth row. — Use the large mesh and the thread double, then net 1 stitch in each of 3 loops, then 6 stitches in the next one, and repeat across the row. Twenty-ninth rcnv. — Use the small mesh and TATTING AND NETTING. 149 single thread; net through the 3 double-thread loops which come between the group of 6 stitches, at one time; then, separating the threads, net through every loop in the group of 6, and so con- tinue across the row. Thirtieth row. — Break the thread which formed the foundation loop, then run a thread through the 10th row and tie to hold the work by; now tie the working thread in the first loop of the first row made, and, using the small mesh, work 1 row, work- ing through 2 loops at once; this completes the collar. This gives only one-half of the col- lar; therefore, in starting it, double the number of stitches directed for the first row, and finish off the other end to cor- respond with the end given. These details form a very dainty collar. Netted Neckerchief. No. 30. — About two ounces of black silk, a coarse knitting needle No. 12, and a half-inch wide mesh will be required in making this article. Begin the neckerchief in the center from point to point upon a foundation of 112 stitches, working over the smaller mesh two plain rows, but do not work the last stitch of each row. Third nnc: — Work over the large mesh with double stitch one stitch in each loop except the last; do not work that. Fourth rmc. — With the small mesh and single silk work one stitch into each long loop, twisting the loops once or twice as you make each; con- tinue to repeat from the second row until you have worked eight repeats of the pattern; take First round. — Over the small mesh net one stitch into each stitch of foundation, except in the stitch at each end of the first row; in these work two stitches. Second round. — Like first round. Third round. — Over the large mesh work four stitches into one stitch of previous round, pass No. 31.- and make No. 30. — Netted Neckerchief. the work from the foundation, pick out the knots, run a thread through the second row, and work upon the first row; for the second half work as described for the first, commencing with the row of long twisted loops. For the Border : — Work in the following manner: No. 31. — Netted Scollop for Scarfs, Etc over one stitch. Repeat all round the work. Fourth and Fifth rounds. — Over the small mesh, one stitch into each stitch of last round. Sixth round. — Like third round. Seventh round. — With double silk one stitch into each stitch of last round. Netted Scollop for Scarfs, Etc. -Use a coarse bone needle for the mesh, 12 stitches over the foundation loop; then with the same mesh, make 1 row, putting 2 stitches into every loop. Next, work 3 rows, using a coarse steel needle for the mesh ; then, 1 row with the bone mesh, and 1 row with the steel mesh. Next, use the bone mesh, and work through 2 loops at once, then, with the same mesh, put 3 stitches in every loop. Now use a little smaller bone needle for the mesh, and make 1 row, then 2 rows with the steel, and r row with the bone; then use a one-fourth inch mesh and make * 1 in the first loop, 7 in the next, and repeat from *. Last row. — Use the steel mesh and work in every loop. The scollop is then drawn up into place and tied tightly. Make a row of single crochets across the top to form a firm edge-finish. If desired, a series of these scollops may be made and joined to form an edging that will prove suitable for trimming underclothing, or children's gowns and skirts. 150 TATTING AND NETTING. Letter Box. Nos. 32 TO 35. — This pretty and convenient box is designed to be hung on the wall in the sitting- room or, library, in order to hold letters that accum- ulate rapidly. Unanswered letters are kept in the box at the top, and those already answered are dropped through a slit in the bottom, and fall into the net below. A cigar box seven inches long, five inches wide, and three inches high serves as a founda- tion for the one il- lustrated. A slit five inches long and No. 32. — Letter Box. No. 33.— Cross- Front using a fine steel netting needle and 2 steel knitting needles, No. 14 and No. 7, for meshes. Begin with No. 14 mesh, making 40 stitches on a foundation for the top of the nand, and join round. Net 9 plain rounds. Tenth round. — With the same mesh, net 1 stitch in each of 4 consecutive loops, 3 stitches in the next loop, and repeat; this is "looped " netting, and the additional loops form little picots and are not to be worked into. Eleventh round. — Net 1 stitch in each of 3 con- secutive loops, 3 stitches in the next loop, 1 in each of the next 3, and 3 stitches in the next loop, and repeat. Twelfth round. — Net 1 stitch in each of 4 con- secutive loops, 3 stitches in the next loop, and repeat. Repeat these 3 rows of looped netting twice. round. — With No. 7 mesh, plain. Twentieth round. — With No. 14 mesh, draw the 1st loop of previous round up- wards through the 2nd loop of the same round, and net a stitch in it, then look through the 1st loop, the upper part of which is now secured in the knot you have just formed, and you will see a portion of the 2nd loop crossing along just below; draw this part of the 2nd Nineteenth jguxryt uaBrli Stitch Design of Box. for half an inch wide is cut in the bottom, and the inside is lined with olive colored satteen; the satteen is first pasted on stiff paper, which is then pasted into the box after the edges have been bound with a narrow strip of the same material. The outside is faced with 6cru canvas, and ornamented with em- broidery (see designs given at Nos. ^^, 34 and 35). No. 34 gives the design for the lid, and No. 35 that for the end, while for the front, No. 34 is repeated in the manner shown at No. 33. The cross stitches are worked in olive zephyr wool, and the front and sides of the net are ornamented with crochet rosettes made as follows: They are worked with olive zephyr wool on a small brass ring as a foundation; in the first round twenty-eight double crochet are worked around the ring, and then closed with a slip stitch, and in the second, scollops com- posed of five chain stitches are worked at regular in- tervals. Long chain stitches in red silk are worked on the surface, and a brass button is placed over the opening at the center. The upper edge is finished with a narrow crochet border fastened down with red silk. Worsted balls complete the work as illustrated. The box is provided with a small brass lock on the front, and with eyes to hang it by at the back. Netted Mitt. (For Illustration see Page 151.) No. 36. — This mitt is worked with machine silk, loop up through the little opening under the knot, and net a stitch in it; entwine every 2 loops to- gether in the same manner to the end of the round. This, with the previ- ous round, forms Grecian netting. Tiventy-first round. — Plain netting. Repeat the 3 rounds of looped netting 3 times. Now cast on to an- other foundation, 15 stitches for the thumb; net 1 plain round; then work the 3 rounds of looped netting 3 times. Join this to the mit- ten by netting 4 stitches of the thumb onto 4 stitches of the inside of the mitten; then continue round the mitten and round the thumb rounds of Grecian netting. Next round. — Plain. Repeat the 3 looped netting 3 times, decreasing 2 No. 34. — Cross-Stitch Design for Lid of Box. '. jSc . . r:tS JHTtSW- ...: ■:.: ~»s&.s Mr*?: a • -MUST, a . ;,; *wr- ........... No. 35.— Cross-Stitch Design for End of Box both. Make 2 rounds of stitches in TATTING AND NETTING. 151 each round, at each side of the thumb, by taking 2 loops together as 1 stitch. Make 2 rounds of Grecian netting. Next round. — Plain. Repeat the 3 rounds of looped netting 3 times, and increase 1 stitch in the inside of the hand in each round. Make 2 rounds of Grecian netting. Next round. — Plain. Repeat the 3 rounds of looped netting 3 times, with neither decrease nor increase. Make the 2 rounds of Grecian netting. Next round. — Plain. Repeat 3 rounds of looped netting 3 times, increasing 3 stitches in each of last 2 rounds. Make the 2 rounds of Grecian netting. Next round. — Plain. Repeat the 3 rounds of looped netting 3 times. For the Border: First round. — Use No. 7 mesh and work 2 stitches into each loop. Seeond round. — With No. 14 mesh, take up every 2 loops together and net them as 1 stitch. Third round. — With the same mesh, plain netting. Fourth round. — With No. 7 mesh, miss the first loop, net 6 stitches in the next loop, miss the next, net 1 stitch in the next, and continue thus alter- nately 6 stitches and 1 stitch in every other loop. Fifth and Sixth rounds. — With No. 14 mesh, plain. No. 36. — Netted Mitten. (For Description see Page 150.) Work the same border round the top of the mitten and round the thumb. Net the other mitt to correspond. Netted Seine. No. 37. — This consists of a deep, pointed bag of circular netting distended with three hoops, and a small pointed bag open at the bottom and held out by a hoop at the top. The top of the larger bag is fastened to the sides of the smaller one half way up (see picture), and the bottom of the smaller bag is held in place inside the larger bag by cords. Bag for Holding Tennis Balls. (No Illustration.) This should be netted with twine; that made in variegated colors is the prettiest. A half-inch fiat No. 37. — Netted Seine. mesh, and also a one and a half-inch mesh will be required. Commence by making 12 stitches with the large mesh on a foundation string, and join round. Begin with the half-inch mesh. First round. — Net 2 stitches in the first loop, 1 stitch in the next loop, and repeat. Second round. — Net 2 stitches in the first loop, 1 stitch in each of the next 2 loops, and repeat. Third round. — Net 2 stitches in the first loop, 1 stitch in each of the next 3 loops, and repeat. Con- tinue netting round and round in this manner mak- ing each time one stitch more between the increase (which occurs six times in the round and always in the loop which appears as if drawn longways) until the bag is as large round as you wish; then work round and round without any increase until the netting measures about 17 inches from the com- mencement. Now net 1 round plain with the large mesh in which to run the scarlet inch-wide braid to draw up the mouth of the bag; net 6 more rounds with the half-inch mesh, and fasten off. Netted Silk Purse. (No Illustration.) Long silk purses are popular, and a simple one 152 TATTING AND NETTING. worked entirely in plain netting forms a nice present for a gentleman. Procure 3 skeins of crimson and 2 skeins of gold- colored medium-sized silk, and a round steel knit- rows with the crimson, and continue the two colors thus alternately till you have made about five and a half inches, ending with 3 crimson rows. Fold the netting and join one-third of the length above each ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ IIM »<*■■'■«• ■ ■ « ■ ■ limilffll«IVI'l:l«VI«TMi|~i»iv^>r«"<& a* ."<*; ^* *^ ^^^ s>HiMt\';)M(;M!W)ji^MisiMM3ia£Bi«asms«Mte^^ n n y FWuH-* ray ygarL u y^ y •^g^g^g^^^^^g^.^JS^s Is3S35i06iP!ii>3ai35»iJlBaS*!B(S'SllB>S i«MM=-<;f2WB»« ■ iiiuiiiiiiiijiijiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiliiiiKiaitiiKi KLo»J-